Question about Razor MX500 Dirt Rocket

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Chain is turning but the rear wheel is not moving

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What??? RLtoFixYa doesn't know what they are talking about. Your problem is a faulty/broke "one way roller clutch" which is threaded onto the rear wheel. I've already replaced 2 on my son's MX500.....

Posted on Jul 19, 2011

  • james o Nov 14, 2011

    yes i have a 4 month old mx500 and it is the roller clutch..they make them poorly..you need to buy the entire wheel assembly because it is welded on to the wheel..good luck...

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If the chain is moving but the wheel is not there could be a few different things wrong.

First and foremost ensure that the chain is on both the front and rear sprocket. If it is not on both correctly by the teeth of the sprocket in the links of the chain then the wheel will not spin.

If the chain is on the bike, check to ensure that the bike is in gear or the clutch is disengaging. This will be a bit more difficult and technical know how. Ultimately, if the chain is not the problem you could have clutch or transmission problems. Both will require the engine to be removed and inspected internally.

Hope this helps.

Posted on May 26, 2011

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I tried the WD-40 solution but no luck. My MX500 was less than a week old. I called Razor's US hotline at 866-467-2967 and they are UPSing me a new rear wheel assembly for free. They did ask if I tried the WD40 and I explained I had. The operator said the rear wheel assembly was probably "stripped out."

Ps: I saw a YouTube video of the welded wheel. I think it would work but potentially cause more problems down the road. The intent is for the chain to be able to spin backwards - also, the weld would cause a lot of torque that could burn out the motor. That's just my opinion though.

Posted on Dec 31, 2013

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It is the rear freewheel assembly causing the problem. if is fixable, but you have to be good with tools, the bicycle shop and the electric bike shop both said they couldn't fix it, but is is doable. 1. you need a special bmx tool that fits that back wheel, your local bike shop should have it in stock. 2. you need to remove the freewheel sprocket and disgard it along with the the bearings (make sure to unscrew the razor chain sprocket from the freewheel assembly and secure it for reuse). 3. either purchase a new freewheel sprocket for bmx wheel or remove one from a old bike (again you will a special tool for that). 4. screw the razor chair sprocket onto the new BMX sprocket (it goes on with the same 4 original screws, right over the sprockets. 5. Screw the freewheel back onto the rim now. tada its fixed.

chain is turning but the - cb43b81e-4f4e-4a07-8642-296a869eeb2d.jpg


Posted on Jun 12, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

voodoomox
  • 1689 Answers

SOURCE: Chain and Wheels

thank you for using Fixya. the issue you are experiencing is pretty much your free wheel. If it is new, it may have been installed the other way around or the clip in the assembly that serves as a spring for the chainwheel to lock out has been worn out.

Best if you will be able to remove the rear wheel and then check the whole rear hub assembly starting with the freewheel and the axle.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: wheel does not turn when peadalled

needs a new sprocket on the wheel the teeth inside are worn

Posted on Oct 12, 2009

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By the "gear arm" I assume you mean that part of the rear derailer that the chain zig-zags through. This arm moves in two ways. It moves in and out (toward the wheel and away) as you move the shift lever - which is how it changes gears, by moving the chain onto different sprockets (gears). It also moves forward and back (toward the front and back of the bike) under spring pressure. This forward and back motion is necessary to take up the slack in the chain when you are using the smaller sprockets (the smaller the sprocket, the "higher" the gear). When the wheel has been removed, this arm moves forward (under spring pressure) as far as it can to take up all of the slack in the chain. All you have to do is grasp this lever and pull it toward the back of the bike, allowing the lever and the chain to pass behind the sprockets (gears) as you pull the wheel back into it's position. You can safely pull this arm forward and back at any time without doing any damage. One more tip-- I find it a little easier if you first put the shift lever in a "middle" gear position. Then when you pull the wheel into place, you should aim to put the chain on a middle sprocket. You don't have to hit the exact correct sprocket as you can simply lift the rear wheel and turn the pedals forward (after installing the wheel) and the chain will move to the correct sprocket corresponding to the setting on the shift lever.
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Loosen the axle nut and the lock nuts for the chain adjusters on each side of the swingarm. Turn the adjuster to move the rear wheel to the rear to tighten the chain.

You want to adjust the chain so that you have 1 inch up and down play in the chain. By this I mean 1/2" above center and 1/2" below center of the chain as it sits on the bike, 1" up and down inclusive. Adjustment should be made at the point where the chain is the tightest. Roll the rear wheel while checking the chain tension. Find the tightest point to make your adjustment.

Move both chain adjusters the same amount to keep wheel straight within the swingarm. Once adjusted, roll the wheel a couple of turns and check the adjustment of the chain again. Once finished, tighten adjuster lock nuts and retorque the axle nut to 50 foot pounds of torque.

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