Question about Star 515ED Deep Fryer

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I have a Star model #515 deep fryer I bought this from an auction and it was very very clogged with grease all over. I took the thing apart and cleaned it. I did not submerse any of the electric components such as hi-limit switch, thermostat or power/heating lights. I reassembled unit and checked current in off position and on position, every thing seems to be receiving power. Filled with oil and tested. Unit will only heat to approx 220 degrees. Hi-limit switch doesn't pop out or seem to stay in (floats back and forth) The thermostat does click on and off when rotating control. There are 2 heat couplers on this unit and I fixed them with ties around the element ( 1 has been replaced before and does look different? ) All connections are secure. The heating element does heat quickly to touch. Both of the thermostats are expensive, could of give me a diagnosis please Thank you

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  • lonewolf2156 May 26, 2011

    no I do have 10 gauge wire way under 50 feet, and a red and black wire each of 120 each
    the element looks exactly like the one in the specs pictures?

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Hi - It sounds like you might not be providing the proper electrical requirements to the fryer. The 515ED is rated for either 208 or 240 VAC. When connected to a 208 VAC supply, it will require 16.6 Amps to produce the rated 3455 Watts of heat. When connected to a 240 VAC supply, it will require 19.2 Amps to produce the rated 4600 Watts of heat. Either 208 VAC or 240 VAC supplies would require a 30 amp circuit with #10 gauge copper wires at minimum - but even larger if the appliance had more than 50 - 100 feet of wire between the electrical panel and the appliance itself. The smaller wire over a longer distance would heat up robbing the appliance of the required power to run at full rating - that is why the size of the wire would be increased.

If the appliance name plate data is not visible or unavailable, you may not have realized that it requires 208 or 240 volts, and connected it to a 120 VAC supply instead. Ohms Law says when you double the voltage, you quadruple the watts. So, like wise supplying 1/2 the voltage would cause the wattage to fall to just 25%. In this case 850 watts (at 208 VAC) or 1150 watts (at 240 VAC) - both are significantly less than a typical blow dryer or toaster (which clock in at around 1800 watts).

The other issue is the potential for the previous owner(s) changing the heater elements to some value significantly lower than the originals (for who knows what reasons). Without knowing the history of the appliance, it is a little difficult to know for sure without obtaining the part numbers or electrical ratings of the heaters.

I hope this helps and good luck. Please rate my reply. Thanks.

Posted on May 25, 2011

  • Steve May 25, 2011

    Official data direct from Star Manufacturing can be found at http://www.star-mfg.com/documents/spec_s...

  • Steve May 26, 2011

    no I do have 10 gauge wire way under 50 feet, and a red and black wire each of 120 each
    the element looks exactly like the one in the specs pictures?

    The #10 gauge copper wire will be bare minimum. The next size down (#12) is rated for 16 amps - not 16.1 amps, maximum. The #10 is rated for 24 amps, maximum. Use of the #12 or smaller wire is a code violation and more importantly, a fire hazard. Since there's less than 50 feet - you should connect the fryer with #10 wire to be legal and safe.

    When you say " A red and black wire of 120 each" - you must be measuring 120 volts from each of the wires one at a time to the ground and / or neutral wire(s). You must measure between the red and the black wire. That voltage must be 208 or 240 volts. As you might guess, use of a simple test light will not tell you the voltage. A meter or wiggy should be used to determine the voltage that is present. The red and black wire should be connected in the electrical panel to a double pole, 30 amp circuit breaker - or two adjacent (for 208 or 240 volts) 30 amp fuses. Let me know what you measure.

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