Question about Alpine MRV-F340 Car Audio Amplifier
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you are not using a capacitor at this point, i would recommend getting a 1 or 1.5 farad cap and adding it to the system to take some of the strain off of your electrical system.
next on the agenda is your speaker wiring, the mrv-1507 runs around 900 watts at 4 ohms bridged.. your speakers (I believe) have dual voice coils, so 4 connections total, if you are running 2 of the speakers this will be 8 connections total, in order to match the impedance of the amp you will have to wire the speakers in series/parallel. if you have never done this before, it is easy and will ensure you are running the set at 4 ohms (which will make a huge difference in and of itself).
take both speakers out, you are going to want to wire the positive from one coil to the negative of the other on the same speaker. do this to both of them, this should leave you with one positive and one negative unused on each speaker. now you want to hook both of your free negatives together and run it to the negative on your amp, then repeat the process with the positives.
this is going parallel (4 ohm / 2 coils = 2ohm) and series (2ohm x 2 bridged coils = 4ohm).
now your rms on the speakers is 500 watts each, so matching them to a 900 watt or so amp should work great.
when you are installing the wire, make sure the gauge is correct for the length of run and for the wattage, also connect your power directly to the battery or to a distribution block that is capable of handling the power. in all of my installations i run 0 gauge wire from the battery to a distributor block i mount on the firewall, then i run anywhere from 2 to 6 gauge wire to the amp depending on the wattage and run length.
for your purposes, if the length of wire from the battery to the amplifier is 13 feet or less, 4 gauge wire should be fine, if it is between 13 and 20 feet, i would consider buying 2 gauge wire for the install.
you didn't mention what size your fuse is, but i am going to assume it is 90-100 amp, for a 1000 watt amp i use a 150 amp fuse. if you can find a 130 amp fuse it should work fine.
a major thing to remember when installing an amplifier is that your vehicle's charging system was never meant to accommodate large loads for an extended period of time. connecting direct to the battery, using a stiffening capacitor, and properly matching impedance will go a long way towards helping to overcome the limitations. in the future, if you decide to go all out on this project, i would recommend getting a high output alternator, a battery isolator, and a deep cycle battery for the audio equipment. this will insure that you never kill your primary battery, and that you won't run into issues down the road with your vehicle electronics.
i hope this helps you out, if youhave any further questions, feel free to ask.
Posted on Nov 15, 2007
Sounds to me like it might be the remote turn on because the first time i installed it, it did the same thing, and i found out that there is two blue wires coming out the stereo, one with a white stripe, i connected it to the blue wire, and it didnt work, then i connected it to the blue and white wire, and it worked. Well hope this solves your problem, goodluck.
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
you can find your wiring diagram here
Select from the list shown which describes your amp and subs (ie 2 channel amp with 2 4ohm subs)
Hope this helps and please rate, thanks
Posted on Mar 19, 2011
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Hi Big Nick,
Sounds like you have got almost all the good out of those Subs. You can find the screws you need at almost any hardware store or Auto parts store. The light is becase you are dloading the amp with low OHMS. You may need use one channel and Run the wiring like written blow to get the power problem to disappear.
S1+ = Kicker comp cvr sub coil 1 positive
A+ = Amplifier Positive output.
A+ to S1+
S1- to S2+
S2- to A-
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