Question about AEG Lavamat 16810 Front Load Washer/Dryer

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AEG L16830 washer dryer not drying. Obtained error code E72 and found temperature probe had one of two wire snapped out of connector. In order to fix had to remove second wire and re-connect both. Still have error code and dryer not drying. Do wires to dryer temperature probe need to be connected to specific terminal before I dismantle again and re-connect.

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  • Doc di Jun 10, 2012

    Hi Djphipps,
    did you then fix this?
    I think I may have the same problem, although the cables look fine.

  • Doc di Jun 10, 2012

    Hi Djphipps,
    did you then fix this?
    I think I may have the same problem, although the cables look fine.

  • D Phipps Jun 11, 2012

    I swapped the wires to the temperature probe and after a few false starts managed to get the machine working again. Basic issue is that the cables to the probe are too short / tight and they break with vibration from the machine. I had to back thread the cables from the nearest cable tie to give some slack.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Error 20 AEG washer dryer

On 40c wash hit E20 error so moved programme onto long spin and all ok!

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

jyackle5
  • 8197 Answers

SOURCE: looking for a manual for washer/dryer L16830

You can get the manual here line 20.

http://www.usersmanualguide.com/aeg/washing_machine

Good Luck And Please Rate FixYa!

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

  • 44 Answers

SOURCE: AEG Lavamat Turbo 12830 - error code E20

Hi

E20 means there is a bolckage in there
remove filter and clear any debris in there and check impeller is turning ok.

regards

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My aeg lavamat 16810 washer dryer won't dry. The

I had the same problem and fixed it by replacing the triple valve. One of the inlets passes water to the condenser and this had failed. You can tell this by opening up the top and when the drier starts you here the drain working and then should hear a gentle hiss as the water is let through. If you don't hear anything then after 10 mins you get the E10 error. It cost me £27 which is cheaper than getting a new machine or a call out charge. If you feel competent then all you need is a philips screwdriver, pliers to get the clips off and a flat head driver to remove the rubber hoses.

Posted on Nov 11, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: i need help fixing my washing machine

fluss saup box vith hott vater i 5,min remeber have open fra the pumt end fluss

Posted on Mar 13, 2010

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I have a AEG L16830 Lavamat Turbo Washer Dryer 1600 and it has no power to the machine


It sounds like you will need to reset it. The reset on the inside is probably a built in overload breaker.

Sep 27, 2014 | Washing Machines

Tip

Checking and Replacing an Oven Probe


As oven probes age, they can sometimes generate error codes on kitchen ranges and render them inoperative. The error code varies between models, but can be found with the technical documentation that comes with your range. Most manufacturers place a tech sheet somewhere along the back of the range, or inside the console for qualified technicians to use as a troubleshooting aid. Refer to this if an “F” code is displayed on your operator console. The probe may also exhibit other symptoms without generating an error code. You could have undesired heating results (too hot or too cold), or slow preheat times.

The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

To replace the oven probe, simply remove the mounting screw from inside the oven cavity, disconnect the wires and pull the probe out. Insert the new probe by feeding the wires through the opening in the back of the oven first and out the back through the insulation (a long screwdriver can assist you in making a visible hole through the heat insulation to feed the wires easier). Once you have the wires through the back of the oven, reinsert the mounting screw and connect the wires leads together. Reinstall back panel.

*NOTE: Keep in mind resistance readings will be higher if the probe is hot. Make sure you check the temperature at room temperature.

I hope this information is helpful..

on Feb 12, 2008 | Maytag MER6772 Gemini Electric Kitchen...

1 Answer

Error code list


ALARMS THAT STOP THE DISHWASHER

A1 Want of water

Is the water cock open?

Does the water load solenoid valve work?

Is the water feed flow a min. of 5 l/min?

Is the water inlet filter clean?

Is the load solenoid valve filter clean?

Is the overflow inserted?

Do the tank/boiler pressure switches work properly?



C9 Automatic hood out of order

Alarm codes for automatic hood type dishwasher (see paragraph 9.2.1 Alarm codes for automatic

hood type dishwashers)



C12 Tank level sensor out of order

Are the connectors correctly connected?

Are connector contacts cleaned?

Does the air trap of the tank work correctly?

Is the level sensor broken (replace it with a new one)?



Alarm codes for automatic hood type dishwashers

When the alarm C9 appears, to facilitate fault-finding a parameter providing a more detailed indication has

been introduced.

The parameter is C9 and is found in the ron family.

The possible cause of the anomaly can be found (see next table) according to the value of the parameter C9.

E.g.: With an automatic hood type the alarm C9 appears.

Access the parameter C9 in the ron family.

Assuming the value displayed is:

20 ? During lifting, the current absorbed by the lifting motor has exceeded the threshold. This can happen if

a rack or other heavy material was placed on the hood.









ALARMS THAT DON'T STOP THE DISHWASHER (SHOWN ON THE USER INTERFACE AT REGULAR INTERVALS)

b1 Drain not efficient

Has the overflow been removed?

Is the water drain blocked?

Is the drain pump blocked?

Are the air trap and tank pressure switch clean?

Is there a constriction in the drain tube?

Is the pump breather pipe returning to the tank clogged or constricted?

Does the tank pressure switch work properly?

Is there a hole in the drain tube (only for versions with drain pump)?



b2 Overflow alarm

Is the water drain blocked?

Are the air trap and tank pressure switch clean?

Does the tank pressure switch work properly?

Is the load solenoid valve blocked? (see electrical wiring diagram - YV1 Filling solenoid valve)

Is the load solenoid valve relay stuck? (see electrical wiring diagram - RL5 relay of AP2 board)



C1 Boiler temperature rise too fast

Does the boiler level sensor work properly? The boiler could be empty.

Are no-original power resistances installed?



C2 Boiler temperature too high

Has the boiler temperature been changed (btC - increased above 90°C)?

Has the software alarm value been modified (bH,)?

Does the boiler level sensor work properly?

Boiler relay/relays sticked (see electrical wiring diagram - RL1/ RL2/ RL3 relays of AP2 board)?



C3 Tank temperature too high

Is the feed water above 60°C?

Has the software alarm value been modified (tHi)?

Is the rinse water temperature too high?

Is the tank relay stuck (see electrical wiring diagram - RL4 relay of AP2 board)?



C4 Tank temperature sensor out of order

Is the temperature sensor broken or disconnected (see electrical wiring diagram - ST1 Tank

probe)?

Is the temperature sensor connector correctly inserted?



C5 Tank temperature sensor out of order

Is the temperature sensor short-circuited (see electrical wiring diagram - ST1 Tank probe)?



C6 Boiler temperature sensor out of order

Is the temperature sensor broken or disconnected (see electrical wiring diagram - ST2 Boiler

probe)?

Is the temperature sensor connector correctly inserted?



C7 Boiler temperature sensor out of order

Is the temperature sensor short-circuited (see electrical wiring diagram - ST2 boiler probe)?



C10 Rinse temperature sensor out of order (only on machines with temperature sensor on the rinse circuit)

Is the temperature sensor broken or disconnected?

Is the temperature sensor connector correctly inserted?

C11 Rinse temperature sensor out of order (only on machines with temperature sensor on the rinse circuit)

Is the temperature sensor short-circuited?

C13 Rinse pump out of order (the water level of the boiler does not decrease)

Does the rinse pump work correctly?

Is there any bottleneck in the hose, that connect the air trap and the board sensor?



WARNING:

Alarms C2, C6 and C7 lock the boiler temperature control.

Alarms C3, C4 and C5 lock the tank temperature control.

In the case of alarms C6 and C7, the boiler waiting phase is not executed (the rinse may be performed

with cold water) and, during the initial warm-up and subsequent rinses ( btF > 0 ), the boiler heating

phase is not executed.

In the case of an open probe error ( C4, C6 e C10 ), the displayed temperature is 10°C

In the case of a shorted probe error ( C5,C7 e C11 ) , the displayed temperature is 99°C.



E1 Communication error

Is the connection between main board and control panel correct? Are the connectors correctly

connected?

Are connector contacts clean?

E2 Tank temperature low

Does the tank heating element work properly?

Are the connectors correctly connected?

Are the dishwasher feed voltage and current correct?

Is the relay RL4 (see electrical wiring diagram - RL4 relay of AP2 board) on the board disconnected

or faulty?

E3 Boiler temperature low

Does/do the boiler heating element/s work properly?

Are the connectors correctly connected?

Does the possible remote control switch connected to the heating element work correctly?

Is there power at the remote control switch input terminals?

Do boiler relays (see electrical wiring diagram - RL1/ RL2/ RL3 relays of AP2 board) work properly?



CAUTION: IF THERE IS A MALFUNCTION ON RELAY RL1 AND THE BOILER HEATING ELEMENTS

ARE FED BY MEANS OF A REMOTE CONTROL SWITCH, THE BOARD DOES NOT

HAVE TO BE REPLACED; JUST MOVE THE BOILER HEATING ELEMENT CONNECTOR TO

ONE OF THE TWO FREE POSITIONS ON THE BOARD.

CAUTION: WHEN ONE BRANCH OF THE HEATING ELEMENT DOES NOT WORK AND THE

OTHER TWO CONTINUE TO FUNCTION, ON REACHING THE SET TEMPERATURE VALUE,

ALARM 3 DISAPPEARS AND REAPPEARS IN THE SUBSEQUENT RINSE PHASE. THIS

ALSO OCCURS WHEN A PHASE IS MISSING.



Dado

Sep 01, 2014 | Zanussi Dishwashers

1 Answer

Frigidaire front load dryer, displays E72 call service, what does this mean?


Hi Don, this is AP!

I understand you are receiving an error code of E72 on your Frigidaire dryer. Without knowing the model number specifically I can tell you the general explanation for an E72 code is an outlet control thermistor short circuit. The recommended solution is to check the resistance of the outlet control thermistor, and check wiring for a short circuit across the thermistor connections. Resistance should be between 4.9K ohms and 6.2K ohms at room temperature (68-77F or 20-25C). You may possibly need to replace the outlet control thermistor and/or wiring and retest.

However, this is not a typical DIY project. I would recommend reaching out to an experienced appliance technician just to ensure no troubleshooting step has been missed. Parts are often costly and if the problem is precisely diagnosed, it can save you a lot of time and funds.

Best of luck,

Mar 28, 2014 | Frigidaire Clothes Dryer Thermostat...

1 Answer

E90 ERROR ELECTROLUX 1087 WASHING MACHINE


Error 90 is a common fault code in domestics within the Electrolux, Zanussi, AEG range. It's a wiring fault /connection normally between the printed cicuit board and wires. switch off power, remove lid, pull off each connector on board checking for clip holding the connector in place, one at a time, look for arcing marks, rub pins gently with clean cloth, tensinsion up clips in connector(delicately) and refit. having done this, test again with a wet load on spin, then a wash programme. Before dispairing check the motor coonnections.

Feb 28, 2010 | Electrolux EW1200i Front Load Washer /...

2 Answers

My AEG Lavamat 16830 Washer Dryer does not heat up on the drying cycle. I comes on and after 15minutes the timer jumps to ) and the dryer stops. On opening the door the clothes have not been heated at all...


Had an identical problem with my 16830 washer dryer and noticed reading other posts that others have had this issue with 16810 units too. After reading posts about the 'condensor issue' causing clothes not to dry properly I got a socket set and took the back-half cover off the machine (11 screws/hex screws in all) to have a look. I then removed and cleaned out the accumulated fluff from the transparent plastic condensor unit. It didn't appear to have much fluff caught within it so I doubted that this would solve the issue.

Upon putting the unit back into situ I noticed that the temperature sensor in the large black flexible tube that connects the condensor to the drum had just one orange wire attached to it. I then noticed a second orange wire hanging loose nearby and putting two and two together figured that the loose wire had dropped off the sensor. Since the connector can't be rewired I resorted to carefully soldering the loose wire to the connector and ty-rapped both orange wires to the connector to prevent the wires working loose again. Once I had the connector back on the sensor both wires were pretty taut between the main wiring loom and the sensor and so I suspect that what had happened was that in normal use the wire had come adrift from the connector due to the drum rocking back and forth and pulling the wires against the loom - a design flaw I'd say.
To create more slack for the two wires in question I cut the ty-rap holding the main wiring loom to the side of the dryer and then re-fitted a new ty-rap in exactly the same place around all the wires in the main loom except for the two orange wires so that they remained free of the main loom to move as the drum rocks. With the wire back in place and everthing re-assembled the dryer heats up perfectly and counts down as it should.

I figured that with the sensor not operating the computer determined incorrectly that the air leaving the drum was too hot/dry as would be the case if the contents of the drum were completely dry and as a result the computer turned off and kept off the heater for the remainder of the drying cycle. I also concluded that as an energy saving feature - with the computer thinking the clothes are dry - the dryer speeds up the remaining drying time so that the drying cycle finishes sooner, hence why the counter completes sooner than it should and all with no error message.

Hope this is of help to others.

Jan 17, 2010 | AEG Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a professional series frigidaire stove and it keeps showing an error code of F30. What does this mean?


Hi here is the meaning of the F30 error code. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment. Mike

F30
F31
Open probe connection.
Shorted Probe connection.
1. (F30 or F31) Check resistance at room temperature & compare to *RTD Sensor resistance chart. If resistance does not match the RTD chart replace RTD Sensor Probe. Check Sensor wiring harness between EOC & Sensor Probe connector.
2. (F30 or F31) Check resistance at room temperature, if less than 500 ohms, replace *RTD Sensor Probe. Check for shorted Sensor Probe harness between EOC & Probe connector.

Jan 16, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

My aeg lavamat 16810 washer dryer won't dry. The error message is E10, meaning the water isn't going in. Water is running until the dryer kicks in, then the valve closes and it stops. The heater etc are...


I had the same problem and fixed it by replacing the triple valve. One of the inlets passes water to the condenser and this had failed. You can tell this by opening up the top and when the drier starts you here the drain working and then should hear a gentle hiss as the water is let through. If you don't hear anything then after 10 mins you get the E10 error. It cost me £27 which is cheaper than getting a new machine or a call out charge. If you feel competent then all you need is a philips screwdriver, pliers to get the clips off and a flat head driver to remove the rubber hoses.

Oct 28, 2009 | AEG Lavamat 16810 Front Load Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

Looking for a manual for washer/dryer L16830


You can get the manual here line 20.

http://www.usersmanualguide.com/aeg/washing_machine

Good Luck And Please Rate FixYa!

Dec 28, 2008 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Beeping


"F2" is an oven sensor error on an Amana. You will need to replace the oven temperature sensor and/or the Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. Replacement of the ERC is only necessary if the oven sensor checks out good. As oven probes age, they can sometimes generate error codes on kitchen ranges and render them inoperative. The error code varies between models, but can be found with the technical documentation that comes with your range. Most manufacturers place a tech sheet somewhere along the back of the range, or inside the console for qualified technicians to use as a troubleshooting aid. Refer to this if an “F” code is displayed on your operator console. The probe may also exhibit other symptoms without generating an error code. You could have undesired heating results (too or too cold), or slow preheat times.

The location of the oven probe can vary on different models as well. It will be mounted on the back or side of the oven wall (usually in the upper right or upper left corner). If you suspect you have a bad oven probe, a resistance check can be performed to determine if the probe is good. To accomplish this, unplug the range and remove the back panel. There are still dangerous voltages present even when the oven is not on. There will be two heat insulated wires coming from the oven probe behind the oven. Disconnect the wires and perform a resistance reading across both wires at room temperature. If the probe is good, it should read around 1100-1200 ohms*. If the reading is too low (shorted) or too high (open), replace it. However, I would take a good look at the interconnecting wiring FIRST. If you have a connector plug on the oven probe, often the plug pins will oxidize and not make good contact. This gives false readings and can lead to erroneous error codes. Some manufacturers recommend cutting the connector plug off completely and hardwiring the leads together by using heat resistant ceramic wire lugs. This provides a more permanent and reliable connection. The lugs can be purchased at most hardware stores. A new oven probe roughly costs about $35 - $45 and can be found on line at several appliance parts websites. Higher end model prices may be more.

To replace the oven probe, simply remove the mounting screw from inside the oven cavity and pull the probe out. Insert the new probe by feeding the wires through the opening in the back of the oven first and out the back through the insulation (a long screwdriver can assist you in making a visible hole through the heat insulation to feed the wires easier). Once you have the wires through the back of the oven, reinsert the mounting screw and connect the wires leads together. Reinstall back panel.

*NOTE: Keep in mind resistance readings will be higher if the probe is hot. Make sure you check the temperature at room temperature.

I hope this information is helpful.. Post back if you need further assistance.

Mar 24, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

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