Question about Marshall Amplification Marshall MG15CD 2-Channel 15-Watt Guitar Amp
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Marshall Amp Quit
According to the schematic, once the signal is initially amplified (also where the LED shows signal), the audio is sent to the send/return jacks (shown on pg3-C7). A quick test to see if audio exists at the insert point will require an insert cable. An insert cable can be a balanced 1/4" cable which splits out to two mono 1/4" connectors or a pair of RCA's. Connect one of the insert outputs to a console (if 1/4" cable) or a tape loop on a home stereo receiver (if send cable splits out to RCA's) and see if you've got sound when playing your guitar (with LED on the Marshall showing signal). If no sound, go to (A) below. If you have sound, go to (B) below.
(A) Ten pin connector labelled CON2 (shown on pg5-B1). Make sure connector is tightly seated and that the pins on the jack and the female connectors in the plug are clean and that good contact is being made.
(B) Twelve pin connector labelled CON1 (shown on pg5-B4). This is the DFX board - make sure this is tight and well seated.
According to the schematic there are voltages seen at several of the connection points previously mentioned. If you have a multimeter and are qualified and careful - check to make sure the voltages are present as shown.
If you're not qualified - meaning you have little or no experience - STOP and refer this repair to a qualified bench tech. They get paid to keep the magic smoke inside the amplifier. You may end up damaging things worse or even beyond repair or even damaging yourself.
Posted on Nov 13, 2013
SOURCE: Marshall Amp Quit
Having repaired many marshalls, I find that the mechanical support for connectors, riser cards, and even the pots for the front panel can break the etch on the PCB. Remember these amps are subject to significant vibration so this kind of breakage where the vertical cards aren't supported or the pots don't interface to the front panel just right can happen pretty often. You can take a wooden popsickel stick or a wooden pencil and poke these interfaces. If you hear a crackel or sound, you can re-solder or perhaps run a jumper wire to fix the problem. Or you can rent a scope and track it down. I've used both methods in my past.
Posted on Jan 16, 2015
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