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I have a qasair rangehood (uv-1200-2) with 2 lights. The lights have not worked for a year or so. I have now replaced them (following ) but they are still not working. I have turned the power off to the kitchen and then on again, but they still dont work. What should I do next?

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  • Home-body May 25, 2011

    Mmmm - not particularly helpful.
    (a) All I can see are the wires that come through the light holes (once the lights are removed according to the instructions referred to). This consists of wires and a piece at the end into which the two prongs of the light are inserted.
    (b) The statement for UVs ( at ) refers to 'low voltage halogen lights'. Are you sure that you are looking at the same model?


  • Home-body May 25, 2011

    Can you please confirm that you are still looking at this?

  • Home-body May 25, 2011

    Re your question above, both lights are 12V, so it appears to be a transformer issue, and I cant get to the transformer (i.e. no obvious screws etc and the unit is installed in a chimney). Given this, I would have to dismantle part of the unit (which is installed in a chimney) to get to anything other than the wires, therefore I have given in and called the technician. However thanks for your help - you have clarified that there are no fuses, or other things that are within my competence to do before giving in.



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First, turn off power to the rangehood. Check the contact resistance of the light switch(es) with an ohmmeter. It should be less than 0.1 Ohms. If you get a substantially higher resistance in the on position, the switch contact is burned out. Also, inspect the wiring harness connector and the connections to the light fixtures. If they show signs of overheating, the connection resistance is too high. You can try polishing the connector contacts to remove oxidation. I use a pencil eraser for mild cases and a non-metallic dry scouring pad (3M Scotch-Brite) for more severely tarnished contacts. In the worst case it will be necessary to replace the terminals or connector.

According to the drawing for this series on the Qasair website, the unit uses fluorescent lamps rather than the halogen lamps referred to in the lamp installation instructions. If this is true, it is likely the ballast has failed (if the lamps have separate switches, they probably have separate ballasts also). If the original ballast model is no longer available, make sure the replacement has at least as high a maximum temperature rating as the original. This is especially critical for electronic ballasts. You can extend the life of the new ballasts by making sure the fans are running before turning on the lights - this should reduce the ambient operating temperature inside the hood.

Posted on May 25, 2011

  • Paul Bade May 25, 2011

    This is the drawing I mentioned. I had planned to include the link in the original message, but lost it in an interruption. Sorry about that.

    If you remove the fan filters, can you see any other access to the wiring such as panels with screws in them? You may have to peer through the fan blades or temporarily remove the fans.

  • Paul Bade May 25, 2011

    If the lamps are low-voltage, there is a transformer or power supply to step down the mains voltage. In that case, the same considerations I mentioned for a ballast apply, except that the switches could be on the low voltage side and the lamps would share the supply. Your description of the socket seems to indicate this is the case. Can you verify the voltage of the lamp (it should be marked on the lamp if it is not a fluorescent type)?

    If you find a simple transformer, you can (again, with power to the hood turned off) check it with an ohmmeter. You can check the secondary side by removing the lamps and measuring resistance through the socket contacts with the switch turned on. It can read in the tens of ohms, but it should not be open. To check the primary, you will have to get access to the internal wiring and make sure all the fans are off so they don't interfere with the reading. The primary resistance could be in the tens or even low hundreds of ohms, but should not be open.

    I note that the letter F has been added to the model number in the drawing. I surmise you have a previous version and the newer version uses Fluorescent lamps. The layout is probably quite similar.



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