I have an old GE Weathertron which still works (except I need a new fan). The unit is about 30 years old, but some goob from Dave's H & AC screwed it up and they had to send a new guy (who apparently had some experience) and he basically spent all day replacing most of the internals for free. The problem is the 18" fan has a bent blade. I can get a new one, but I just can't get the old one off. I removed two hex screws (set screws) from the hub on top, but it still wont budge. Is the hub on top part of the fan itself? In any case, how do I remove the fan/hub for replacement?

Sounds like you have an add-on remote. Try changing the frequency in the receiver & transmitter. If that doesn't work you probably need a new receiver.

Try installing a jumper across the N/O terminal at the relay socket. Temp sensor in the radiator or in the thermostat housing supplies the signal for the relay the other relay signal is supplied by A/C in on position. both fans will run continuous with A/C on. One fan runs intermittent relative to water temp. Be careful not to blow a head gasket. If you leave the jumpers in place, the fans will stop when the ignition is turned off, save the engine until you isolate the relay signal problem. then simply remove jumpers and reinstall the relays

Make sure your fan clutch is working. No fan, no cooling of the condenser, no heat dissipation, no cold air. Start the truck and make sure you feel air movement, a lot.

If the laptop is running to hot, the problem is in the cooling fan and blocked heatsink ports. The computer must be dismantled to access the motherboard, remove fan and heatsink, use a can of compressed air and clear out all the ports and fan, next get rubbing alcohol and paper towel, remove thermal grease from the processor and heatsink, now apply a fresh thin layer to the processor and heatsink and assemble, this will cure most heat related issues.

This is a 2.5 ton unit. The 30 in the model # stands for 30K btu's which equals 2.5 tons. How many square feet is your house and is it insulated?

Hi you have a compressor that is drawing locked rotor amps. It is trying to start for a second, drawing lots of amps, causing the fan to slow down because of this. It is shutting of on its overload protector. Thats why you have no cooling. It may be a run capacitor, but I really doubt that's the problem. You have lost the compressor due to a lock up, burn out, and it would be cheaper to replace this unit.I hate to give you this type of information, but this is the problem, just being honest. Please keep me posted. If you want a second opinion, take it in to a appliance repair shop, and they will tell you the same when its turned on. I wish you the best,
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Heating Contractor

Look at the wires that go to the compressor and make sure they are not burned off. Inspect the capacitor tops for swelling and loose or burnt wiring. Also check the connections coming from the controls. May have a wiring problem or even a bad compressor. How old is the unit?

Have you cleaned the unit? The condenser coil? The filter? The evapartor coil? Sounds like an airflow problem. You need to clean these areas. You can clean the condensor coil with water hose and a coil brush you can get at the hardware store. Clean the evaparator with the same brush. YOU can use a hairbrush if you don't have anything else. But make sure you go up and down on the fins on the coils not sideways. You might check your blower fan for dirt also. Good luck I hope I helped you. Could also be low on charge but first try cleaning.

The 2 most common issues are a freon leak or the outside unit fan start capacitor goes out. It's more likely a capacitor issue. They fail regularly, especially when it's hot out. I had a fan capacitor go out on one of my 3 units last year and it cost close to $300 for an AC company to come out and fix it. I watched them fix it and it's something that you can do yourself if you know what you're doing and are careful to hook it up right. I have three AC units and another capacitor went out this year and I found a kit with detailed instructions with pictures and phone support at hvacrepairkits.com. It saved me over $200 on the capacitor replacement.

ok you right all the way :)
but the main thing is when the unit is not in defrost power should come to the fan ?
the board # is WR55X10174 and it is 149$
the fan is 65$ so it is still worth the price then a new unit.