Braun Syncro 7526 Electric Shaver Logo
Posted on May 24, 2011
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When I power on to the first setting(shave head pivots) it makes a very loud noise like the insides are loose. On the second setting(pivoting head locked) it gets quite a bit quieter. and if I hold my finger against the head I can quiet it down even more. My shaver is the 7526 Syncro Pro Is there a way that I can disassemble it and tighten up any interior screws.

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  • Braun Master 1,652 Answers
  • Posted on May 24, 2011
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You will find a video for disassembly of the shaver at shaveroutlet.com. See link below

http://www.shaveroutlet.com/braun_syncro_shaver_disassembly

However, I seriously doubt that tightening anything is the problem. More that likely, the oscillator inside the swivel frame is cracked and causing the sound. You will probably need to replace the drive unit. See link below

http://shaveroutlet.com/shaver-replacement-parts/braun-7000-series-syncro-motor-drive-unit-p-110.html

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Have a Scott Bonnar Greenkeeper. Top had come loose. Pull start action works but will not engage to turn motor. Took top off. Where do 2 plastic lugs locate that were loose inside cover.

you will see two holes on the cover that the lugs pivots fit in
most likely the pivots have broken off and that is why the lugs were loose in the cover
tip

Clock Bushing Replacement

BUSHING TIPS



-One of the most common stoppage problem is caused by increased friction and mostly due to lack of incorrect amount of or lack of oil. If discovered in time, the movement can be cleaned and oiled with only high quality Clock oil, then it will be good for another 5 years or so. Insufficient lubricants eventually cause wear in the pivot holes and/or bushings.
-After a pivot is worn it will change the depth of the wheels and pinions to such an extent that the power train will stop due to improper gear meshing. Wear causes a pivot hole to become egg shaped.

HOW TO TEST

-One testis to completely let off the power from the power train and rock the main wheel back and forth. Then you will clearly see the pivots that have the problem jumping back and forth.


Sample one:
image006.jpg
Sample two:
Examples of EGG Shaped pivots above.

WHEN DO YOU NEED BUSHING REPLACEMENT?

-One rule of thumb used by many repair persons, if a bushing is worn one third or more the diameter of the pivot it needs to be replaced.
-Above is Two example of a worn pivot's [note the black gum med up oil around the pivot in photo above]. This is a dead give away of a potential problem.

centerline PIVOT

-Before disassembly, mark all bushings that need replacement in the correct geometrical direction of centerline.
-Complete disassembly of movement is required.
-Then you will need to file out the exact opposite direction with a small file, this will ensure that when you start drilling out the hole it will be centerline.
-Set-up the drill press and lock the plate on to the drill press making sure you find the centerline of the original pivot hole. Use a steel short stock the same diameter of the old pivot and chuck it in the drill press after the plate is secure, select the proper bushing that you intend to press in.












PRESSING IN THE BUSHING
-With a small broach taper slightly the inter plate before the insertion of the bushing. Do this from the inside of the plate, this will ensure that the bushing will never fall out.
image008.jpg bushpress.jpg

-Select a bushing that is a bit undersized after it is pressed into place, then open the hole up to the correct diameter.
-Use the drill press to push in the new bushing from the inside plate out.
-Be sure to broach out the pivot bushing in both directions, this will leave the hole in an hour glass shape ”===)I(===” and will reduce friction.

COUNTER SINKING.
counter.jpg
- Counter Sinking is very important and not only needed to hold the oil in place but also to reduce the amount of actual friction on the pivot. [Note:] don't get carried away the first gears tend to have a lot of torque on them and a lot of bushing surface is needed; however, the final pivots do not and are very sensitive to friction.
-Barrel Bushings, these are often overlooked. This is an example of a bushing before and after replacement.

Hope this tip helps.

R/
David

http://antiqueclock.clockstop.com/bushing.htm
on Jan 22, 2010 • Watches
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Making very loud whistle noise

Be sure to verify if you are getting the noise while you are physically on the machine or with no one on it
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Any knocking noise coming from a treadmill indicates bad bearings in your front roller, rear roller, or drive motor

Isolate the bearings in the front and rear rollers from the drive motor bearings

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After doing so, move the treadmill belt by itself by pushing it backward or forward with just your hands and listen for any noise, if you get any noise it is most likely coming from either the front or rear roller. To isolate the noise out of the two rollers you must remove the rollers and turn each one individually.

If no noise with the first test, go ahead and start the machine and run it at a low speed. You want to listen for noise, if you get knocking or grumbling while drive motor is running with no drive belt attached then the issue is in your Drive Motor.

A lot of times simple maintenance will save your treadmill from noise, you want to make sure and lubricate your treadmills *pivot points. Incline motor bolt, shaft, deck screws, and or any *pivot points on the bottom of your machine. Metal on metal *pivot points are usually the culprit in most cases.

*Pivot points are just areas of high friction where there may be a bolt, washer, and nut attached to the base of your frame or any hinges on your folding type treadmills. Metal to metal needs to be lubricated to minimize wear and tear of those areas.

Synthetic grease works best or any spray on lubrication works fine if you do not want to remove any bolts or hardware.
If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to call us or visit us online
888-713-2880 or
http://www.sportsmith.net/supportsearch.aspx
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Pivots worn out or need lubricant. Make a warranty claim first.Otherwise, If out of warranty I would try to lubricate the hammer pivots myself. You will need "grease suitable for plastics".
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My shaving head came apart and I can not re assemble it, kindly give me instructions

Wife cleaned bathroom shelf dropping the Arcitec. One of 3 heads was not aligned properly, when I tried to re-seat it, this head came apart. To put it back together takes some finesse and patience. Take a coil of stamps, or some other small opening to rest the outer plastic shell head, then insert the metal screen which has notches (2 small, 1 large) and fit it in the plastic shell head. Next put the metal blade assembly on the screen. Next align this on the metal (thin) pivot. When the outer plastic head, and the metal pivot are aligned (small peg holes), you can place the thin inner plastic piece on and gently press your sub assembly and the backing plastic together, It will snap together and hold. Don't FORCE it, the holes must be aligned on the outer plastic, the metal pivot frame, with blades resting on the screen. It does snap together. Work with fairly bright light to see what you are doing. If this fails, invest in a new head assembly for about 15% of the cost of the whole razor.
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Turn the mixer over and look up where the pin goes through the two pieces. There is a screw there which secures the pin. Tap the pin into position and tighten the screw.
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Removing windshield wiper assembly ford excursion

Wiper Pivot Arm Removal and Installation
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  1. Remove the windshield wiper pivot arm.
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52fed05.gif
  1. NOTE: During installation, it is necessary to pull the locking tab out to its full open (unlatched) position and hold while assembling the pivot arm onto the mounting arm and pivot shaft. Align the key on the pivot arm head with the keyway on the shafts. This will make sure the pivot arm is correctly aligned. If necessary, the key can be removed. To adjust wiper pivot arms, refer to Wiper Blade and Pivot Arm Adjustment in this section.
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Windshield wipers make loud noise but dont move when turned on

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Error Message 07,010.43:68691

That is the code when the Print head is not pivoting back and forth.
In order here are the most likely problems.
1. On the right hand frame there is a staineless steel pivot block, about one inch square that the print head shaft runs through. Some, and most likely Yellow ink has seeped into that pivot block not allowing the head to move freely.
2. One of the cables that are attached to the print head are caught on some item holding the print head back.
3. The mahine was unplugged or lost power with the wiper blade tacked to the print head, jamming it between the print head and drum.
That code is telling you that the print head is not pivoting beween the home and operating position.
Very common. Also very very unlikely the print head has been damaged or defective.
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