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TMMH-930 multimeter (voltage, ampere,ohm) : was sold by Aldi, make = Top Craft HELP ! Can't find where the battery goes in ! Thnx,

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: 87 f150 dual tanks fuel gauge doesn't work how can

I have a1987 F-150. The gas gauge for the rear tank always indicate that the tank is full when I know it is not. I try to put gas in but the tank won't let any gas in. Is there some type of sensors inside the tank that won't allow the tank to be filled or is this a guage problem?

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SOURCE: battery voltage goes from 12 volts to like 2 volts in a matter of mins

check battery positive cables for overheating or shorting out massive power drain in a short time has to heat a cable somewhere

Posted on Apr 17, 2013

tonosantacru
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SOURCE: HOW DO I DO TO USE THE PORTABLE DIGITAL MULTIMETER TS-F309?

this kind of devises are a bit complicated, im afraid that with no manual it will be difficult for anyone to tell you how to use it. how ever I will try to load you a video of the basics.

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Replacement Fuse


Just replace the fuse with an identical fuse .... and try to find out why it blew in the first place.

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WHEN camera is turned on the lens goes out and back continuously


Check if the lens can come out completely. Just a little obstruction, can cause the lens to move back to a "safe" position. Did you check the battery, if it is still ok? Does the display give any warning?
Do you have a Kodak 3-volt AC adapter (sold separately)? You could connect the adapter and look if the camera will work then.
To make sure the battery is ok, you could take a multimeter and check the voltage of the battery. The voltage should be a little (few tenths of a volt) above the voltage on the battery, when measured with a multimeter.

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Can not charge


To locate the problem, it's important you own a multimeter, which can read DC Voltage and resistance.

If you do own one, then you can perform the following :

1. Battery
Set your multimeter in Voltage (DC)-mode.
Remove the battery from your phone and see what Voltage it's rated. (might be something like 3.7V, 4.2V or even higher.

The phone contains a minimum of 2 (small) pins, which is touching the battery, when it was inserted. The battery will have 2 or move gold-alike pads.Try to measure the battery at these pads to see the Voltage. If there are more pins, don't worry, just try to measure between all pins.
If the readout at your multimeter is roughly 0.5 Volts below the rated Voltage, the battery should be replaced.


Example :
Battery rated 3.7 V. Readout multimeter : 3.2 V
Battery should be replaced.

2. Adapter / charger
Insert the adapter in a wall-outlet (110 / 240 V AC)
The adapter, contains a plug, which inserts into your mobile phone. At this plug, you need the Voltage. The readout at your multimeter should be a higher than the Voltage-rating at he battery. If not, your adapter / charger is damaged.

3. Onboard connection
Set your multimeter in Resistance-mode, sometimes also shown as the Ohm-sign.
When charging your phone, your adapter is connected to your phone, redirected to the battery. Now it's time to check if there's a good connection between the phone-inlet and the battery-pins inside your phone. The inlet has in the center a metal pin. Try to connect your multimeter to this pin, and one of the battery-pins inside your phone. If there's no connection, to any of these pins, you'll get no readout. This might mean, the phone-inletconnector is not well connected to the board(*) of your phone.
(*) The green print, with all tiny electronic components.

The source of this damage might be :

A) While charging, the phone dropped on the floor.

B) Non-official adapter / charger
Maybe a higher rated current than allowed. A battery may be charged 1 / 10th of the specificated current. So, if the battery shows 1600 mAh, the batttery can be safely charged at a current of 160 mAh. If you use a 2A (= 2000 mA) charger, you can charge the battery, but results in a shorter lifetime of the battery.
Sometimes, even polarity might be an issue (reversed) or the non-official charger is supplying AC-Voltage instead of DC-Voltage.

C) Damaged onboard controller
Some phones contain a kind of controller-IC to control the charging proces. If the charger was supplying a too high Voltage or current (Ampere), it might end up in a fried controller-IC.
I such case you might have heard a "plop" when inserting this charger into your phone, or noticed smoke or a distinctive smell (of burned components)

Any repair for type A, B or C-damage, requires special skills and tools. If you lack any of these 2, go for a repair-shop or buy a new mobile phone.

Oct 13, 2013 | LG Cell Phones

1 Answer

How much ac vols output from stator in yamaha xvs650?


Hi, Anonymous the systems check below is geared towards Harley Davidson so exact numbers might differ slightly with book specs on your bike but the basic principal is the same, in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/65731-how-much-ac-voltage-stator.html
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf
Yamaha XVS650 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA XVS650 Owner Manual

Mar 21, 2013 | Yamaha XVS 650 Dragstar Motorcycles

1 Answer

Service manual


HP AC adapter, HP part number 416421-021?

http://www.amazon.com/Compatible-HP-416421-021-Adapter-Charger/dp/B0050DN8X8

Plug going from AC adapter to DC Power Jack on laptop;

Center of the plug is the Positive ( + ) connection.
This is where the red Positive probe lead of the multimeter goes.

The outside cylindrical metal shell is the Negative ( - ) connection.
This is where the black Negative probe lead of the multimeter goes.

The Function knob should be set to DC Voltage.
(Unless you have a multimeter, that automatically detects whether it is AC, or DC voltage you are testing)

If more than one scale set it to the 0 - 50 Volt scale.
You should read VERY close to 19 Volts.

[Label on AC adapter.
Output: 19V / 4.74A

19 Volts at 4.74 Amp's. (Amperes)
Don't worry about the Amperage, just the Voltage ]

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Jul 10, 2012 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

I was having charging issues... I have already replaced the volt reg and the battery... since then the bike will not start intermitenly... and code "s" or "5" 33 E comes up on the...


Hi, Slavarific the fault codes are explained in the free service manual link below, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging and it must be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test you may have cursory readings of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries have this issue more so than lead acid types.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. The meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
12. Check for excessive wattage load from headlight
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Electrical
Battery Drain
02 04 VICTORY Service Manual 02 04 pdf
Victory Parts VictoryParts net
http://mybikemanuals.com/category/victory

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My battery started to not charge suddenly on a drive. It got to the point were it would turn over a couple of time then stop I would immeditely lift off the starter switch then hit again after a couple of...


not a fuse or relay problem but a flat/dead battery
have the battery load tested and have the charge circuit tested by an accredited auto electrician to ensure that it is charging the battery

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2010 Yamaha Mio with 5000km has dead battery. First time - went to start in morning and it's dead. Attempted to try 3 times. Turned over very slowly. Sat for 5 minutes - suddenly started quickly - no...


Hi, Janara500 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Fast charge mio
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Yamaha Mio Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha Owner Manuals

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1 Answer

1999 R1 HIGH RESISTANCE IN HEADLIGHT CAUSING INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TO GO OUT AND OIL LIGHT TO COME ON BATTERY GOES DEAD AND THE BIKE WONT START ANY ANSWERS THANKS


Hi, Tom in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14626-r1-charging-system-part-1-long.html
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/14627-r1-charging-system-part-2-long.html
1998 1999 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Oct 07, 2010 | 1999 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

How do I set digital multimeter to measure resistance


plug black lead into bottom socket. Red lead goes into middle socket.
Select the Ohms range on the dial... the lower left section ... Denoted by a Greek letter Omega (Upside down horseshoe)
set the range on the dial (This meter goes from 200 to 2000K ohms)
and read away....

Sep 06, 2010 | Actron Digital Multimeter Tester

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