Question about GE Profile WPRE6150KWT Colossal Capacity Washer

5 Answers

My appears to wash the clothes just fine... When it comes time to rinse the clothes it drains the water while spinning slowly. The machine never spins fast enough to remove the water from the clothes. I have checked the water removal pump to ensure no clogs are proper operation... Sean

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  • 7 more comments 
  • Timothy Stogner May 24, 2011

    I have verified that the pump is running and the impeller is intact...



    The water is quickly removed via the discharge line.. The tub spins but rather slow... I have ran the system with and without clothes so I dont think balance is a big issue... Additionally this machine is a direct drive machine without transmission...



    The clothes remain fairly soaked but there is no water in the tub.





    Thanks



    Sean

  • Timothy Stogner May 24, 2011

    I have verified that the pump is running and the impeller is intact...

    The water is quickly removed via the discharge line.. The tub spins but rather slow... I have ran the system with and without clothes so I dont think balance is a big issue... Additionally this machine is a direct drive machine without transmission...

    The clothes remain fairly soaked but there is no water in the tub.

  • Timothy Stogner May 24, 2011

    is the agitator assembly the same as the . mode shifter asm?

  • Timothy Stogner May 24, 2011

    im guessing the agitator assembly is the unit in the tub I'll try that first.

  • Timothy Stogner May 24, 2011

    I have torn apart the agitator but I am at a road block..
    How does this come apart?

  • Timothy Stogner May 25, 2011

    dd you see the picture I sent. I don't know why the sitesaid I didn't accept your solution. Weird

  • Timothy Stogner May 25, 2011

    Ahh I didn't accept because I was continuing our dialog.. I didn't click the "other expert" link.. So it took me by suprise..

  • Timothy Stogner May 26, 2011

    I have reattached the agitator and no improvement... I took a close look at the belt system and I dont see any sliping... The motor does not appear to be speeding up during the spin cycle... Should the motor be speeding up or is there a transmission (for a lack of better terms) that handles the speed increase?

    sean

  • Timothy Stogner May 26, 2011

    I have reattached the agitator and no improvement... I took a close look at the belt system and I dont see any sliping... The motor does not appear to be speeding up during the spin cycle... Should the motor be speeding up or is there a transmission (for a lack of better terms) that handles the speed increase?

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5 Answers

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  • Master
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Have the braking mechanisum checked on the washers transmission.
that is slowing it down

Posted on May 26, 2011

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  • Master
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Hi

It seems that you have already checked the agitator assembly so now the issue seems to be with the clutch assembly that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Posted on May 25, 2011

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott May 25, 2011

    Hi
    It seems that you have already checked the agitator assembly so now the issue seems to be with the clutch assembly that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
    Daniel

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  • Master
  • 1,654 Answers

Make sure the new front load washers are on a good solid level surface. If the machine can move around then the sensors will often sense the movement and not allow the machine to reach full spin speed. Some manufactured bases may not be stable enough to give correct readings to the machine. If your washer is moving around, then fix that problem.

The timer can also be a problem. Many will wear out and then get to a point in the cycle, then not advance any further. Also the computer controlled sequencers can also get glitches and may need to be reset. You can check out the timer by manually advancing it, and the computer reset procedure will be in your manual that you received with your washing machine.
Also check the pump filter for any clogs as well as your drain pipe. If all of this appears fine then ther may be an issue with the transmission or clutch.

Posted on May 25, 2011

  • Dcramer531
    Dcramer531 May 25, 2011

    I waited several hours after your question was posted for a reply but got no reply from you, when I logged on today I am being told you have selected another expert and did not wish my advice, is this still the case?

  • Dcramer531
    Dcramer531 May 25, 2011

    The part your looking at has to be removed as one piece after the bolt and pull have been removed from the rear. There is a U tube video that show how to replace the bearing that is connected to the rear of the unit. Watch the fvideo and decide if you want to tackle this job, it is quite labor intensive and basically involves removing the washing drum and dissasemble of the unit.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4AeUy1V6...

    Just cut and paste this in your browser .

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  • GE Master
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Hello & Welcome to FixYa

If you have already checked the lid switch assembly and also cleaned the agitator assembly then the problem seems to be with the belt that is bad/worn out and needs replacement. Please check this image, part#603 in that image is the belt. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Posted on May 24, 2011

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  • Kevin White
    Kevin White May 24, 2011

    Please view this video...an example of agitator assembly:


  • Kevin White
    Kevin White May 24, 2011

    Thats fine

  • Kevin White
    Kevin White May 25, 2011

    Sorry for late response....just checked your email....you can lubricate there and after that take it apart to check the belt....it said you did not accept the solution because you did not :)

  • Kevin White
    Kevin White May 25, 2011

    You can accept it now though :)

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  • Master
  • 3,917 Answers

Hi,

You did not mention whether the clothes remain wet or not. However if the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed while draining the clothes may be too wet. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt or a worn clutch which is mainly noticed in GE washer or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. In your case the clutch may be worn. For it's a GE washer, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. As you are saying that the drain line is not clogged then the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If that is the case then you need to replace the pump.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com


Posted on May 24, 2011

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Hi, our simpson enduro 701 washing machine does not spin back and forward in the deep rinse cycle. but operates ok and spins in spin cycle. thankyou Tina.


Hi Tina just read your posting. From the information in your posting the machine fills, then when the machine is full of water the agitator moves clockwise then anticlockwise until it gets to the rinse cycle then drains the water ,then it fills for the rinse cycle but does not move the agitator in the rinse cycle.Then it drains and spins the clothes dry .Is this assessment of your posting correct.If it is not 100% correct please reply to tell me what the machine is doing or not doing.If it is correct then the problem with your machine is the control board.Is your model the electronic one with the push buttons?Looking forward to your reply.

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1 Answer

LG WM3677 - clothes are soaked after dry cycle


It is usual for the pump to keep running throughout the spin cycle and for some minutes afterwards to ensure as much water as possible is extracted. What you say confirms that the machine is empty of water at that point.

The question is where is the water coming from and I can think of only two possible answers - either it is coming from the supply or for whatever reason, it is syphoning in or being drawn into the machine from the drain. The latter should be impossible if an air-break is included in the drain but it is theoretically possible if not. My daughter recently found after she emptied her sink she was slowly filling her washer due to a blocked wastepipe.

Assuming the water is coming from the supply, it can only enter the machine if the supply solenoid valve is leaking or if it is being energised by the controller. I suspect if the controller is energising the solenoid valve during the drying cycle it is either faulty or extremely misguided.
I suggest testing the theory by temporarily disconnecting the valve after the final spin but before the drying cycle begins. If the laundry is dry it indicates the controller and if it is wet (with clean fresh water) it is likely to be the solenoid.

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1 Answer

The final rinse isn't rinsing thoroughly. I have


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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