You advised one user to remove the top and indicated there would be mounting equipment? Is it under the top? Or is it separate? I'm trying to find a dryer and stacking kit for my washer and any help would be greatly appreciated.
If you are buying it new then it should come with the hardware required to mount it in a plastic bag but if not you will have to purchase the kit if you have the model number i could look it up for you if you wish just let me know -joe JP's Appliance Repairs
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You have to lift off the cap (Item 1) and then the inner cap & washer (Items 22 and 23) to get to the mounting bolt item 21. You will have to use a socket and an extension to remove the agitator mouting bolt. After removing the mounting bolt you should be able to lift the agitator to free the shoe lace. Re-assemble in reverse order. Mounting bolt... inner cap and washer... then the top cap.
If this is a FRONT LOADER, just follow these simple steps:
1. UNPLUG the washer.
2. Remove the top panel of the washer by locating and removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off.
3. The pressure switch is located on the right hand side rear of the washer (as viewed from the front). Disconnect the connector plug and air hose.
4. Remove the mounting screw (if equipped). Some of this switches simply clip in place.
If this is a TOP LOADER, the pressure switch will be located inside the operator console behind the load level selector knob. Some of these consoles have a removeable back, others you have to lift up for access.
If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Bob your an the right track.. remove the two screws ( unplug washer ) pull sw from mount and the wires will folow. they are hooked to a wire clip . with it in hand you can see if sw is cracked or broken .. the new sw will come wire& plug/ you can splice it or remove wire harness and reinstall as you took it appart . the 70 series has a lift up top / two clip in front / use a putty knife . ..mm
Most lid switches are located under the right hand side of the top panel. Some, are located adjacent to either lid hinge. In any case, you still need to remove the washer exterior case to access it. The switch is held in place with a couple of mounting screws with a ground wire attached. This is a very simple repair, but if you experience any difficutlies please let me know. I hop this helps you.
If you suspect you have a defective timer it can easily be replaced by performing the following steps:
1. Unplug washing machine... and pull out the timer knob. Some knobs have a removeable center cap and hidden screw. Some are simply slip-fit. Remove the knob.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Disconnect all power plugs and remove the timer's mounting screws.
5. Reinstall reverse of removal.
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The F02 error code indicates keypad/user interface failure. Most of the time, this is caused by a problem in the keypad/user interface. It can sometimes be caused by a failed control board.You could have an intermittent problem such as a stuck key or contact. As long as the F02 is not displayed, the washer should work normally. You can continue to use it when the F02 is not displayed. It is still safe to use the washer. Sometimes this problem is caused by a loose wiring harness connection between the keypad/user interface control board and the machine control board. The F2 error code on this washer indicates a stuck button on the user interface control board. The procedure for accessing the control boards on this washer is shown in the image below. I recommend unplugging the washerand checking the wire harness connection from the user interface control board to the machine control board. Try unplugging the connections and then plugging them back in a few times. Make sure that they are plugged in correctly and then reassemble and test the washer. If the F2 is still displayed, then the user interface control board will need to be replaced. CLICK ON THIS LINK TO GET THE INSTRUCTIONS HOW TO REMOVE CONTROL BOARD:-- http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wfbgkftgqtgssggxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/gdqwksfbdxggskbksbb/1/1303472/5961857/image8028img-or.gif You can order a new user interface control board from the Sears PartsDirect website or from---------- www.repairclinic.com Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this
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The problem is the User Interface board behind the control panel. This is a noted problem that often occurs with this model washer. The only option, I hate to say (unless you want to listen to the washer beep all the time) is to replace the board.
The part(s) you need are available at searspartsdirect.com. Simply type in your model number and look under the "Control Panel Parts" heading for item number 7 (User Interface - part #8564393). You may also consider item number 12 (User Interface Harness - part #3407184) to rule out the possibility of a bad wiring harness. You can try to do end to end continuity checks before considering a replacement just to be sure. The contacts are sometimes difficult to get to with a multimeter, though.
This is a fairly simple repair to accomplish on your own. Just follow these steps:
1. UNPLUG the washer. 2. Remove the three screws in the back of the console. 3. With the screws loosened, the console will come of by lifting from the back first. Use care not to damage the small wire harness under the console. 4. Remove the wire harness from the User Interface board and remove the knob (by pulling) from the front panel. Lay the entire control panel face down on a soft surface (like a stack of towels). 5. Carefully remove the white plastic cover plate that is installed over the control board. 6. Once the cover is removed, carefully remove the old interface board by prying gently on the series of tabs around the perimeter of the board. There may also be some mounting screws to remove as well. 7. With the old board removed, carefully install the new board by inserting the control knob shaft through the hole first. Then, gently snap the board in place, making sure all the tabs around the perimeter of the board are in place. Reinstall any small mounting screws. NOTE: Do not handle the surface of the board with your hands. Handle the edges only, to avoid electrostatic discharge from your body causing damage to the board. 8. Reinstall the protective plastic white cover over the interface board. 9. Flip the console upright and reinstall the wiring harness and control knob (The knob only goes on one way). 10. Carefully insert the console in the front grooves on top of the washer, first. Then lower the back and reinstall the screws.
The repair is pretty straight forward. However, if you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
PS I tried to find parts for this washer at others websites, but could not find a listing for it.
This advice from Sears to replace baffles only applies to dryers. The baffles for the washer are installed from inside the basket. If you can't locate mounting from inside the basket, then the entire basket/tub will have to be removed and disassembled.(big job)... But I am pretty sure they mount from inside. Washer or dryer, there are three screws in the rear along the top. Remove screws, slide top toward rear and lift off.