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Haire hvt18dfbb cant find any documentation on the product free online so here it goes, basically 1. rear cover off 2. dust free 3. light, fans inside and out running 4. seals intact 5. upper compartment is now cooling to desired temp 6. upper heat sink and fans getting warm 7. lower compartment is where the trouble is 8. lower wont cool at all and heat sink is cool 9. board seems to be good 10. underneath the circuit board is okay 11. what can i do now to save this what i would call a nice wine cooler? ps i will not have it sent out, and i own soldering equipment. hint. djdanielsunllc@gmail.com

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  • rpaulmeyer Aug 26, 2008

    Lights and fans run on my HVT18DFBB Aficionado but does not cool either the top or bottom...at a loss as to what to do !!

  • Anonymous Sep 08, 2008

    Similar to above, top zone does not cool while bottom zone still does.

  • zbonefas Dec 29, 2008

    I have the same problem. The top gets cold, but the bottom doesn't. I have the unit torn apart, but there is no obvious defect.

  • jdeloach Jan 30, 2009

    I have the exact same problem! How can I fix it???

  • mikelsmith Feb 05, 2009

    I had the same problem... top was cool but the bottom was not. I unplugged the unit for awhile and now when I plug it in I have no power. When I unplug there is a faint clicking sound for a second or two. When it is plugged in there is nothing, no lights, no fans, nothing. Anyone ever had any luck replacing parts??

  • Anonymous Feb 18, 2009

    Top doesn't cook bottom does.

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    The upper compartment of my Model PFWC18 is not cooling. If fact it appears to be heating. Set to 45F goes to 71F. Fans on both sides if the heat sink run constantly.

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If either the top or bottom compartment is not cooling, then the thermal couple (cooling module) behing the fan and heat sink is bad. It can be replaced with part number RF 4545-14 but they cost $70 each. One on the top and another on the bottom. You would need to solder a few wires. I think, this is not worth the cost, since the fridge cost about $150. Also if you don't get power than the circuit board in the back has burned-out. The replacement for this part is RF-5210-37 cost about $38. I replaced the the circuit board after the fridge wouldn't go on. Now the top compartment won't cool and I need a thermal couple. Total cost would have been $130 and I think it's not worth it. So since I fixed the power issue, I will use this fridge just for my reds in the bottom compartment for as long as it will last. I will remove the broken thermal couple, maybe I can put together my own.

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

  • keithmcmahan Aug 26, 2010

    Inside the RF 4545-14 is a TEC1-12706 thermal electric device that can be purchased a lot cheaper than $70. ( Found on EBay for about $3) It doesnt take much to replace it. Just add thermal grease.

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TRUE GDM 26 merchandiser has sealed lines to the freeon and cant access. The fan blows warm air and all the lights work. It just doesnt cool.The compressor was cleaned only 2Xs in 3 years.


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My refrigerator was working then we moved it to another apartment now it is not getting cold.


Good day,
Assuming the lights are working, and you hear it running,
Check the most common problems first.
1. Open the freezer door and see if you hear the fan motor running. If not remove the rear panel in the freezer panel and inspect motor.

2. Most common, another fan motor motor in the bottom rear behind the rear cover was jammed while moving. Remove rear cover, inspect, and repair.

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1 Answer

GE GSS25KGSA.... the freezer is no longer freezing regardless of temperature setting. It gets cold but no freezing. There used to be more noise during cycles, but that has stopped also.


The fan that circulates air in the freezer compartment is frozen & not circulating air - resulting in a freezer compartment that is cool but not cold. The reason is that the “heater & bracket” that warms & defrosts the evaporator coil & the fan above it has died & w/no defrosting, the coil & the fan load up with frost & ice & stop working.

Temporary Solution:
1) Unplug the frig.

2) Take all the food & shelves out of the freezer. Put it ALL in one cardboard box; this will keep it from defrosting while you get the freezer working.
3) Take out the ice maker storage bin (the thing that's full of ice cubes) & dump the ice cubes. (if you leave them in the freezer, they will melt & refreeze & make a disaster).
4) There is a metal panel below the lights & it should have frost & ice built on it.
5) Get two (not one) hair driers, set them on high heat & melt all the frost & ice & keep on melting & defrosting for about 10 minutes.
4) Plug the frig back in.
5) The freezer fan should be turning.

6) Put the shelf & food back in & close the door.
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Solution:
1) Get a “heater & bracket” GE part number WR51X10055, about $30 w/shipping on eBay. This is for a GSS25KGSA GE side by side (the last two letters WW, BB, & CC are colors). If you have a different GE side by side, the correct part number can easily be found at www.searspartsdirect.com. Nice drawings.
2) Unplug the frig.

3) Take all the food & shelves out of the freezer. Put it ALL in one cardboard box; this will keep it from defrosting while you get the freezer working.
4) Take out the ice maker storage bin (the thing that's full of ice cubes) & dump the ice cubes.
5) Take out the light cover. One Philips screw on top & two press-to-release plastic things on the bottom.
6) Unscrew the light bulbs.
7) Take out the metal panel below the lights. Four ¼” screws. It is held in by two tabs at the top, so swing the bottom out & pull it down. Be careful not to bend it.
8) Get two (not one) hair driers, set them on high hot & melt all the frost & ice on the evaporator coil. Do NOT touch it.
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11) Put the back panel back in & secure it with the 4 ¼” screws.
12) Reinstall the lights & cover.

13) Plug the frig back in.
14) Put the shelves & food back in & close the door.
15) Expect this problem to reoccur every 3-4 years; great designs fail after the warranty is up, and keep the repairmen & parts people employed …

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1 Answer

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2. Pull it away from the wall if you can and try to vaccuum or dust off the vents and fans in the back (you might want to turn it off while you do that). We had a problem with our old fridge and it turned out that the vents were just really dusty and weren't pulling in enough air. Have you tried cleaning the heat exchange coils which are underneath or behind the refrigerator depending upon the design of your unit? If these are covered with dust bunnies the dust serves as an insulator and prohibits them from shedding heat from the coolant that passes through them. Hope that helps...!!

3. you must visit repair-shop if the problem still persists.


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Best Regards.


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1 Answer

WINE COOLER


hello jelani372,
Happy you assist you.

You asked,
WHERE MIGHT THEY BE LOCATED I AM A ROOKIE I DO HAVE THE BACK COVER OFF ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED THANKS I HAVE THE HVT18DFBB MODEL


I believe this is the web site you asked for!

http://www.haieramerica.com/en/

Bless You,
Please rate me as solved, before you sign off please. Thank You!

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I cleaned the bottom of my fridge and after an hour or so it was back to normal.

Hope that works for you too.

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