Question about Stanley Bostitch Mcn150 Strapshot Metal Connector Nailer

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Head valve seems to stick during firing of the tool All new part in tool I have 5 tools with same problem mcn150

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  • Stanley Master
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#1 If the gun only releases air from the trigger and does not fire, suspect orings on Headvalve leaking. Easy to check, remove head and Headvalve and examine the surface in head where oring makes contact with metal surface. If the metal surface looks worn / fine scratches, air is leaking past and gun will not fire. Remove fine scratches with 400 grit paper. Headvalve oring must seal or gun will not fire. If the Headvalve does not make tight seal with new oring, remove new oring and wrap some teflon tape into groove and reinstall oring. The teflon tape will make the oring fit tight against metal surface (try 1 1/2 loops of tape).
#2 If the gun fires however the headvalve gets stuck in the head after some use, Headvalve spring could be weak. Replace the spring or remove the spring and add spacer below spring to give more pressure (I use oring with same diameter as spring under the spring ).
Use silicone paste lube on all orings and surface where orings make contact. This paste is sold at Lowes in the plumbing department and swimming pool supplies. When you connect air to the gun, listen carefully for leaks out the nose or head. Slight leaks will affect how the gun works. Repair as needed. Good luck with your repair.

Posted on May 27, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Safety foot and lever inside of trigger are not pushing the trigger pin all the way in. To verifty that the gun will fire, remove the nails to allow for dry fire. Remove the trigger to reveal the trigger valve. Hold the gun against old coiled rubber hose or soft wood. Very quickly depress the trigger pin all the way in. If the gun fires, adjust safety foot and trigger so that the trigger pin is fully depressed when your bump fire. If the gun will not fire after adjustment, remove the head and lube headvalve/orings with silicone paste lube.

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I once made a valve spring compression tool out of a sliding bar clamp from my woodshop the ones with the flat bar the clamp slides on not a pipe clamp because it wont let you close enough. then I ground a U shaped slot in the stationary head to allow it to slide over the valve stem then you can crank the other end to compress the spring

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My eu1000 started using oil. The compression seems fine so I took off the valve cover. The valve guides seem worn. How do I get them out so I can replace them?


We soak the cylinder heads in hot oil for several hours to get the head heated enough to use a a specially designed tool to remove the valve guides. (see below) Even then there is the possibility that some re-surfacing / material build up is required that will result in the valve seat having to be removed also. It will be nearly impossible to remove it in someones garage without runiing the cylinder head and valve seats. Most automotive machine shops will do this for you if you carry it in. I do recommend that if you do take it to a machine shop that you have the valve seats re-ground. We had all of the tools to do this but never removed a valve guide on a cold cylinder head.

Valve guide removal tool:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Valve-Guide-Removal-Tool,2629.html

A tool like this one is often required to remove valve guides:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GO-KART-BARSTOOL-RACING-ENGINE-VALVE-GUIDE-PULLER-KIT-/250507189301?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3a53645c35


See the link below (although link is related to a full size engine, the process is the same):
http://www.ehow.com/list_6610338_valve-guide-removal-tools.html

All I will say is one wrong step and you can easily have the need for a good machine shop or a new head.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

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