Question about GE Profile PDS22SBSRSS

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My freezer for the GE PDS22SBSARSS is not cooling enough. The set temperature is at 0 deg.F but it stays at a constant 20-23 deg.F. The refrigerator temperature works well at the set 37 deg.F. The problem is only for the freezer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: Ge model PSC25MSTASS digital refrigerator setting

check for frost in the freezer back wall

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

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  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator does not maintain 37 degrees

i have seen this problem before its the control board in the back the board is about 150 dollars and it goes every DING DING 5 years lol horrible design of the one that comes on the fridge every ge side by side has this problem  its very easy to replace but have to "ground" yourself before you touch the new control board meaning rub you hands on plumbing pipes, not pvc or copper
good luck if you got questoins let me know

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile refrigerator temperature problem

refrigerators have 2 coils. the evaporator coil and the condensing coil. one is on the bottom of the fridg and one is on the back or inside behind a false panel. these coils must be kept clean or if the condensing coil cannot reject the heat absorbed by the evaporator, the box temp will stay high and if the evap coil cant absorb heat the box temp stays low running the risk of freezing

Posted on Nov 27, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 4-yr old Electrolux 22.6 counter-depth

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Posted on Jan 07, 2010

mrfixit3667
  • 262 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator temperature control panel not lit.

Your Refrigerator Has a main controlboard located in the rear of the machine. This Controlboard sends power and reads the user information. if your user display (Temp Control panel) is not working it can only be 2 things The user display or the main controlboard.

As far a the refrigerator working without it, I would not trust it.

The clicking noise is a relay on the main control.
Usualy when I here this relay go on and off rapidly, there is a problem whith the main controlboard.

The big problem with this is why did the main control go out ? some other componet on the refrigerator could be the cause. A comon cause in the past has been the evaperator fan motor.

Posted on Jan 15, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank-you. I have since found out from GE that there is a recall on the mother board for my model refrigerator."

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1 Answer

The Refrigerator's Freezer is not working but the fridge is, what is wrong?


You probably have one compressor that cools the freezer section and the refrigerator section. Usually the freezer gets cooled directly with the cooling coils. A fan blows cool air to the refrigerator section. The air flow to the refrigerator may be modulated with some time of "air door". What you have written says to me, is that the fans and air doors are working but there is enough cold for the refrigerator but not enough for the freezer.

Here is what I would do:
  1. Put a thermometer in the refrigerator and in the freezer.
  2. Be sure the coils underneath or behind the refrigerator are clean. If they are very dirty, clean them.
  3. Keep the doors shut for at least 12 hours and then read the thermometers and write down the temperatures.
  4. Freezer temperature
    1. If the freezer has started freezing again, you fixed it by cleaning the coils
    2. .If the freezer temperature is between 0 deg F and 32 deg F, consider putting the food in a cooler and packing in some dry ice to try and save it.
    3. If the freezer is warmer than 32 deg f, throw away the food.
    4. Doctors and hospitals are pretty expensive. I would throw away the food no matter what the thermometer read.
  5. Look inside the freezer at the cooling coils. See if they are ice coated or not.
    1. If the freezer is above 0 deg F, and the coils are ice covered, the defrost control is not working. Unplug the refrigerator for 12 hours and let the ice melt. (Keep the doors shut.) Then, plug in the refrigerator for 12 hours and check the temperature like in step 3.
    2. If the freezer is above 0 deg F, and the coils are NOT ice covered, the compressor is not working.
  6. Call the service technician. When she comes out show her the temperatures and tell her what you found out about the ice on the coils.
Good luck

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1 Answer

What is the normal fluctuation range of a top freezer in a freeze-refrig combo? That is if I set the temperature of the freezer a 0 F, at what temperature should the freezer come on to keep the air i


Hello Richard;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

The normal range for a freezer is -2 to +2 Deg. F.

The normal range for the fresh food section is 35 to 40 Deg. F.

If you set your freezer at 0 Deg. F. it will stay at 0 Deg. F.
When the freezer temperature drops below 0, your compressor will kick in to bring the freezer back to 0 Deg. F.

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3. there is not too much ice formed inside the freezer walls. Needs defrost.
4. the fridge is not overloaded with stuff - not enough capacity to cool things.
5. Not enough free space behind the fridge to allow air movement for coils to cool
Please provide more details of the problem if above not helping. For example model number, is the problem happening both in freezer and refrigerator settings. Get a fridge thermometer and monitor temperature in both sections. should be 4 deg C in fridge and -18 deg C in freezer after stable operation.

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