Question about LG WFT1071TP Top Load Washer

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How to remove drum from outer plastic mould - LG WFT1071TP Top Load Washer

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Remove Pulsator, remove big nut using 38mm socket with long "T" bar in socket, 19mm drive then use a wheel puller to loosen drum off the gearbox shaft.
Hope this helps
Godfrey Davids

Posted on Nov 10, 2011

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First you would have to remove the cabinet, then the agitator, but then you need a special wrench to get the tub out.

Posted on May 23, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How to split the outer plastic drum on hotpoint washi theres something stuck between the outer and rotating drum


Unless you can see actual screws securing the 2 drum halves together, then it is not possible to seperate the drum.
More recent models have a one piece moulding which makes it impossible to seperate.
If it has screws, then the whole intrior of washer has to be removed complete, a difficult job, unless you know what you are doing.
Best way to tackle the problem, is to remove the lower rear panel of washer , remove large black hose on bottom of drum, and have feel around from the bottom of drum, and see if you can locate the item that way.
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The door seal, the hot air inlet and door seal overflow pipe had been disconnected from the drum. Main problem was access to reconnect the door seal overflow which is a very short pipe section going to a small hole in the front of the outer drum and access very difficult.

First remove the top cover of the machine. Two very long screws and two self tappers at the top rear of the cover.

Make sure that the hot air duct is disconnected from the heater outlet and remove the separate plastic duct which bridges between the heater and the hot air duct in the seal.

In this case the door seal had been pulled off the outer drum and the retaining coil spring had also been recovered. If the seal is still in place there is a "handle" moulded into the seal which might assist in starting the removal of the seal.

Remove the outer seal from the front panel of the machine by easing out the wire and spring retainer which can be accessed by the door hinge. Carefully remove the door seal from the front panel and remove it.
Check for damage and if necessary get a replacement.

To Refit
Push the door seal into the machine loosely and connect the overflow pipe (very difficult access). I leaned the machine on its back to make access a little easier.

Next carefully fit the seal onto the outer drum starting at the bottom by the overflow pipe. Be very careful not to disturb the previously fitted overflow pipe. Make sure the seal is correctly fitted over the retaining flange on the drum.

Next fit the retaining spring by threading it behind the overflow pipe and into the recess on the outside edge of the seal, connect the two ends of the spring together to form a circle and carefully stretch it into place around the door seal. Take care at the top to make sure it goes behind the hot air inlet duct.
Apply a little gasket compound onto and under the lip of the overflow pipe where it enters the outer drum at the bottom (a bit messy and awkward).

Next fit the seal to the front panel of the machine ensuring that the tabs on the seal are aligned with the markings around the front edge of the door aperture.

Fit the wire and spring retainer such that the coil spring sits on the left side of the opening within the moulded recess in the door seal.

Now refit the hot air inlet duct between the heater unit and the door seal ensuring that the parts are it the correct position and the two lugs are stretched over the the small spigots on the heater body.

It took 4 hours to do the job but that included the learning curve. Reckon it should only take an hour if two peaple are available when fitting the inner and outer seal retaining springs.

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I did my Hoover Electron 800 bearings (metal tub). As i recall it was fairly straightforward - needed a gasket for the tub backplate on that.
Unbolted tub backplate from tub and withdrew it through rear of chassis along with drum/drum-shaft/bearings assembly, removed pulley, tapped shaft through bearings with softfaced mallet (or hammer & wood), drifted bearings out gently, working evenly around circumference.
For plastic tub some kind of suitable extractor may reduce chances of deforming bearing housing during bearing removal, compared to drifting them out. If it'd serve to ease the new ones in too then that'd be even better.
Don't forget to check/clean the water level pressure sensor path while you're at it - stave off any problems in that area for a while while you have the machine apart. ;o)

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