Question about Dewalt DPD3100 Gas Pressure Washer

2 Answers

My DPD 3100 is leaking from a brass fitting on the side of the pump (opposite of the white ??reset?? button. The brass fitting has a star shaped whole in the center. When i remove the fitting, there's a heavy duty spring behind it. Do i need to replace the fitting, or is there another problem? Where do i find parts for this?

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  • jmmocyk1 May 25, 2011

    I found a diagram. The part I'm referring to is the Unloader Assembly. I took it off, removed the cap (with the star shaped hole in the center) and spring and inspected it. There are two o-rings on the base of the assembly which look okay. The center plunger does not slide easily. It seems like to be binding. I ordered a replacement but they are on back order and will not ship for at least a month.

    I put the unloader assembly back on and tried to start the pump. The only way I can get the engine to run is by holding the wand open. After it starts, if I let go of the wand, the engine immediately stops and there is a lot of water pressure built up.

    Is there another problem with the pump that i need to be looking at, or will a new unloader assembly solve the problem?

  • jmmocyk1 May 25, 2011

    Water is leaking from the unloader assembly. When i remove it and disassemble, the center plunger doesn't move freely. I've ordered a replacement, but it is on back order for at least a month.

    When I reinstall the unloader assembly, the only way i can get the engine to run is by holding the spray wand open. If I release the spray wand, the engine immediately stops and there is a lot of water pressure built up in the wand.

    Is there something else wrong with the pump, or will a new unloader assembly solve the problem?

  • jmmocyk1 May 25, 2011

    Thanks for your input. The leak is thru the valve, not around the threads. The thermal valve is on the opposite side of the pump unit and is still in place operating correctly. I posted a follow up question to this site earlier today with more info. I have a new unloader assembly ordered but they are on back order with an expected delivery date of at least one month. Any thoughts?

  • jmmocyk1 May 25, 2011

    Thanks a lot. You are truly a Guru. The part number and phone number to order were a great help. I ordered it and it is on its way.



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First things first, before replacing I would wrap this valve with teflon tape and then retighten and see if the leak stops, I checked the entire schematic and found no listing for a spring so this is part of a valve assembly of some type. It might be the unloader or the thermal valve so if there is any doubt about getting the right pressure on the cap I would replace the valve to ensure safety. the valves I saw are less than 25.00 so for the price I personally would replace. check the surrounding area for cracks also. Now as where to buy parts, you can go to and download a parts breakdown of the pump assembly and also other areas for this washer. You can also buy the parts online from them. Let me know if you need more assistance

Posted on May 25, 2011

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  • David Ford
    David Ford May 25, 2011

    I thought it was the unlooader, I found 2 one is in Louisville KY phone number 1-502-380-3748 and the other in West Virginia phone 1-304-343-0289. Use the nylon tape on the threads when installing these. Hope this helps. Just saw the recent updates which weren't there before.

  • David Ford
    David Ford May 25, 2011

    part number I found is A17489

  • gregg May 03, 2014

    does this lower the psi output


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Sounds like a pinched oring
You can find parts with exploded pictorial illustrations here below at decent prices

Posted on May 25, 2011


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Electrical outlet help

Not sure either without more information. Good video, but where exactly were each wires on old device?
Did red go into back of old device on black side or white side?
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Then add other wires one at a time in process of elimination.
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CSB115STA cooper single pole light switch install diagram

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Trying to hook up a pilot light switch to a gfi recp not having much luck with getting it to work properly i got 2 conductors from the panel and 2 conductors going to the gfi recp and on the switch i have...

It is unclear what pilot-light-switch is supposed to turn on-and-off.

Option A) pilot-light-switch is going to turn GFCI on-and-off
Option B) pilot-light-switch is getting power from existing GFCI circuit, and switch controls another Load (light, fan or motor) located elsewhere.

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Bare copper wire always connects to green screw.

1) I have a Cooper pilot-light-switch in my office.
Black Hot wire from breaker always connects to dark-colored screw(s).
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Wire going to Load (light, fan, motor) connects to brass colored screw.

2) Two things happen when pilot-light-switch turns ON:
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b) Brass screw that had no power, is now powered.

Hot from breaker always connects to brass-colored Line screw
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Option B) Pilot-light-switch is getting power from GFCI receptacle AND you want pilot light switch protected by GFCI.
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Option C) same as option B except pilot-light-switch is NOT protected by GFCI.
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Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.

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One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.

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Separate wires.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on hot wire.
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