Question about Thermador Ovens
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.
http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start Oven Won Turn on
Posted on Jan 11, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a Thermador electric
Welcome to FixYa.
You have not mentioned if the oven has displayed any error code so I will take that for what it is...there was none shown.
With that, I`d start by looking for an overtemp cut-out tripped. Did this problem start following a self clean cycle ?
Here`s what and where to look for for this,
Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.
**Turn off the 40amp breaker at your service panel or sub-panel in the home before attempting any service...safety first**
With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down. It will look like the image below...
Ultimately it could be a faulty relay board or related to the timer, but I`d start with the hi-limit cut-out tripped first.
If you feel capable of repairing this yourself I can send you a complete service manual in a "pdf" attachment, however you`d need to provide an email address to where I could send it to you.
Other than that if you call in a pro just be sure they are an authorized B/S/H/ service provider ( B/S/H/ is the parent company for Bosch, Thermador, Gaggenau, Siemens products ).
Let me know and I`ll watch for your reply and respond as soon as I can.
Posted on Aug 05, 2010
The control switch may be bad on it. If there are 2 elements on the top, they both are not bad at the same time.Check to see if the wires have not burned off the control switch first. Check to see if your breakers are O.K. Turn them both(maybe 3) off and then reset.
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
here is the manual for your oven try to follow them and make them as your guide enjoy..
click on this site..
please don't forget to rate our answers.
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
Bullet fuse to control panel Melted due to excessive heat from self clean mode. Just a guess> Typical fuse:
I have a manual around here somewhere Oh yeah in my TIP
Thermador 301/302 wall oven repair manualHelpful?
Posted on Sep 28, 2010
Problem is usually either temperature probe or heating element.
Grab a multimeter and set it on impedance (Ohms).
Remove first temperature probe and then heating element.
If either probe or element is reading open (ohms infinity), then replace the part.
If both probe and elements are not open, then the problem is either wiring or oven electronic control. The most common fault resulting in no heat is the temperature sensor located inside the oven cavity.
Posted on May 31, 2011
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