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Delta metal chopsaw one brush is arking bad saw has hardly been used brushes are like new

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I can only think the connection is weak or intermittent, which would cause the arcing. Try to switch the brushes and see if the problem follows the brush. If it does, then pull on the spring to extend it a little more and widen the prongs which touch the brush holder. If the problem does not follow to the other brush holder, then it could be a damaged brush holder which is cracked or the spade connector is damaged.

Posted on May 23, 2011

Testimonial: "thanks for the info i never thought of changing the brushes i will try that. thanks again"

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I have a delta 34-670 10 inch table saw. Checked switch and breaker, both are good.Across the plug checked with ohm meter shows open. Does this mean brushes are bad or are motor windings bad?


indicates a motor problem
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I have powermatic pm2000 3hp 10" saw, when I try to turn on push on button , it blows the breaker. I have correct power. I have used this saw for 5 years no problems. I took magnetic switch apart,...


There is a direct short some where.Unplug and turn the blade and listen to the bearings. One of the brushes might be worn down and be jammed against the armature. Five years of use and those brushes might be ready for replacement. If things turn out to be easy fix then changing brushes is not that hard.When you take them out you will see some small holes in the holders.When you put the new brush in the spring will try to push the brush back out,use a small piece of wire in the holes to hold it in.Next install the brushes back where they go.Check the armature out use a hacksaw blade to clean those grooves between the metal strips.Put the armature back in place and button it back together and pull out the keeper wires and your done.

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My JT160 Delta Shopmaster Benchtop Jointer skips. The speed fluctuates.


This sound like a bad commutator in the motor - if you're lucky then it's just the brushes. As the motor turns, the brushes push against metal contacts on the commutator. The brushes provide an electrical path to the commutator. The commutator is a bunch of electro magnets (remember wrapping wire around a nail and putting electricity to it to make a magnet? that's what's on the commutator). So as the motor turns, the brushes connect to different contacts - but if that contact is bad, then no electricity can flow. So the first contact may be good (30 degrees of the motor works fine), but the second contact is bad (30 degrees of the motor turned off), then the third contact is good (30 degrees of the motor back to fine again).

You can try to fix this if you're mechanically inclined and want to take the motor apart. Remove the motor entirely from the jointer. Open both ends of the motor (usually 3 or 4 really long screws going through the motor to join the ends). The brushes are usually spring loaded and can shoot out, so go slowly and look inside while you open it up. The brushes should be at least 1/2 inch long (if they are shorter than that then replace them). Also look for sawdust - if your motor is jambed full of sawdust you may just need to clean it out.

Once you have the motor fully apart - the commutator is that bulk of the shaft, with lots of wire wrapped around it, and one end having metal contacts (where the brushes ride). Examine the contacts closely - if one is bad (broken or missing) then you HAVE to get a new motor - no way around it. However, when they put the contacts onto the shaft, they use lots of epoxy/glue. This is what is between the contacts (from side to side). As the brushes move around on the contacts, they also ride on the glue - this can "smear" the glue from between the contacts to actually cover the contacts. If this is the case you can use 600 grit sandpaper to clean the contacts. I would also cut the glue between the contacts so it sits lower than the contact surface (take an old hack saw blade and brake it in half - the width of a hack saw blade is usually the same width as the distance between the contacts - lightly saw the glue between the contacts until it's lower than the contact surface).

While the motor is apart, check the bearings - if the bearing are bad, the shaft can "flop" back and forth and might make the brushes skip over a contact. If it's a bearing you can usually get a number off of the side of the bearing and find new ones (search for the part number on google - bearing are about $2-$4).

I'd also check the belt the goes from the motor to the jointer shaft - I like those powertwist belts because they don't deform and induce vibrations.

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If you can get your hands on a continuity tester, do a continuity check from the plug through the flex ,the switch, armature and back to the plug .It should be possible by a process of elimination to discover where the break is in the circuit.
It might be simply that there is a break in the cable where it exits the mains plug or where it enters the chop saw

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I would bet it's the Motor Brushes.They are locaded on the housing of the saw, accesed by unscrewing the plug.The brushes are replaceable and your saw will be fixed.Where to buy replacents could be an issue,Check manufacturer or search power tool replacement motor brushes.If stuck you can try to unscrew the plug the brush is at the bottom engaging the motor armerure,there shoud be a spring keeping contact.Inspect brush condition it looks like a carbon block worn to the curve of the motor.Go online do a search on how electric motors work you'll see exactly what I'm explaining.Cheap part easy fix.Good Luck.

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