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I have double door frig., the cooling side is warmer then it should be. I've had the computer board changed,which was quite expensive and the thermostat. When I called my serviceman back a second time thats when he put in the board. But it still did the same thing(warmer on the cooling side). Called him bac, he has to unthaw something. It has worked now for 4 wks. And her the same problem again.

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DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.


you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on May 23, 2011

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I have a GE Gss22iFRE CC side by side. The strip between the 2 doors is very warm to the touch. I have vacuumed the rear panel and removed the rear panel and vacuumed. The fan blade will move freely by...


most likely you have a bad computer board,if the condenser fan runs slowly or not at all i've been changing the computer board and it runs fine.everything on this machine runs through the board,unplug it,remove the cover to the computer board on the back of the machine and look at the board,if you look at it you'll see black relays,if your board doesn't have all 7 relays on it you don't have the newest board in your fridge and this is your problem,part number WR55X10942 and it's around 150 dollars.look at j1 pin 2,if there's a yellow or white wire in pin 2 cut it,you'll see this on the instructions,get any kind of a fan and blow it onto the back of the machine to keep the compressor cool and change out the computer board as soon as possible or you'll cook the compressor,i've had costumers run a fan in the back until i could get to them till the next day and it works great but change out the coil tomorrow,you can check the condenser fan motor with a meter but most likely it's gonna be the computer board.hope this helps you out,salde

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