Loose bracket or plate...

For heaven's sake Michael D. Hannan, do your home work, understand specific features of the machine and get your facts right before you mislead somebody with an incorrect answer: the Bernina 1630 needle plate is not fastened by screws but by spring clips.

To Anonymous,
If the needle plate was properly held down before, then you have either not replaced it correctly or you have removed it clumsily and bent the spring clips that retain it. Read the manual or follow my directions to remove and replace below.

First, examine the needle plate:
Pick up the needle plate and turn it over. Look at the two spring clips: they should be firmly fastened to the needle plate by the two small screws - if not, use a very small screwdriver to tighten them. Now look at the other end of the spring clips: the gap between the spring clips and the needle plate should be very close to 3mm. If significantly over that, the needle plate will not be held firmly. You cannot bend them back into place without removing them first.
Fix spring clips if damaged:
For each clip, you need to hold the end with the hole in a vice, right up to the first bend. Gently bend the rest of the clip bit by bit back to the correct position, testing each time you bend it. Refit the clip and repeat for the other. Don't use heat or you will destroy the elastic properties of the clip. If the clip is bent too far, it will break and you'll have to order replacements from your Bernina dealer.

How to remove the needle plate:
Open the bobbin cover. From the front of the machine and using your thumb, push up under the curved front edge of the needle plate just enough so the locating dowel comes out of the hole at the front left. Simultaneously slide the needle plate back a bit. Lift up slightly against so the curved front of the needle plate comes over the edge of the free arm casting. Slide the plate back a bit more to free it completely and you can then lift it out.


How to refit the needle plate:
Place the needle plate in the gap with the curved edge about 20 mm behind where it will end up. Slide the needle plate forwards until the curved edge comes up against the locating dowel and lift it sightly over the dowel. By this time the spring clips will be partly engaged. Now push the needle plate forwards from the rear until it goes forwards and drops into place. I hope this helps. Foot and needle removed for clarity. Pictures taken on a Bernina 1030 which is the same in this area.

what make amd model dryer? as a general rule first UNPLUG the dryer, if it is gas turn off the gas supply then you have to remove the dryer door first for front loaders. Once that door is off look for any additional screw that were hidden, there may or may not be any. Then look for any brackets that may be attached to the top panel of the dryer. If it is a top loader skip that, then you pry the top of the dryer up they are usually held down by clips. Then grab/pry the front of the dryer off. Those panels are held on by clips also but take a look for any brackets that might have screws in them. It should all be visible.

try moving the gear selector to d1 or d2 it may just be 1 or 2, if this puts the vehicle into drive then your shift linkage of shift cable may need adjustment it could also be loose bolt on the shift shaft under the dash. use a flash light and look under the dash to find the shift cable, its a thick black cable that runs up to the back of the steering column the cable is then clipped on to the column and the cable comes out to a eyelet and is popped onto the shift shaft the bracket on on the shift shaft is held in be two bolts if these bolts come loose they can cause shift linkage problems. if they seem loose you can repair it just by removing each bolt , one at a time and putting lock tight on them then tighten them, be careful not to over tighten though. hope this helps!!

above is a picture of a shift cable so you know what you are looking for. sorry I could not find a picture of where it connects to or of it installed. good luck!

the rear bumper is attached with "Brackets", however, the real bumper is a steel bar, inside the bumper "cover". The bumper cover is a plastic cover that is visible outside and painted. I am not sure to which you are referring. Maybe your best bet would be to stop by a auto body repair facility and have them write you a free estimate for repair. That would list the parts needed. From there you can find the name of the part you are looking for and order it yourself.
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hi, if the back plate on the watch the part that is against your wrist has four screws holding the silver back plate onto the actual watch then you need to undo these four screw, once undone you lift the back plate off and then this gives you access to the battery, the screws are small philips (cross head screw) so you will need a small screw driver, their is also a little bracket that holds the battery in place you can either push this over to allow the battery out or undo the small screw that holds this bracket in place this will then allow the battery to fall out,

If their are no screws in the back plate then all you need to do is get a very fine flat head screwdriver and look around the edge of the back plate and you should see a little bit on one of the edges that allows you to put a screwdriver into to allow you to lever the back plate off if it has no screws then its just a push fit so just pry the back off and this will give you access to the battery then like above the battery will be held in place by small bracket undo this then remove the battery.

when fitting the new battery make sure you dont touch the top and bottom of the battery as this will flatten it really quick so just push it in place then refit the bracket then either push the back plate back on or screw it back on depending on the type of back plate once this is done you watch will be working again

give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com are find a place that installs them and maybe they can help you wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.

these should be held in place by metal clips. they make a tool that kind of looks like a 2 prong fork. cover the paint with a rag and gently pry up in certain locations looking under each with a flashlight to verify and pry up until they come loose. chances are you have to repurchase the clips. maybe. cheers

Remove the 2 screws from corner of the control console and lift the console to the rear. Remove the 2 clips holding the cabinet to the rear panel. Unplug the lid switch wire. Remove the cabinet. Look for a loose or broken spring. There will be 3 large springs around the base. One small spring goes from the tub to the bottom rear panel(probably the one broken).Look for a loose skate plate under the tub. Maybe missing pads.

You would definetly be able to replace the motor yourself, if your a handy person.

1. You must take off the blade before starting which is only held on by pressure and a mini little metal clip at the tip of shaft.

2. Motor bracket is held on by 4 star/phillips headed screws, two are located under the metal plate the retains all the wires on the right side, and two located on the left side of motor housing.

3. The motor is wired with a plastic connector (plug in plug out). Once motor bracket has been unscrewed and removed there is 4 star/phillips screws holding the motor on the bracket.

Restart proceedure to install the new motor. Part #K7448-000

if this is a 4-6 year old dryer then the kick plate is held in place with 2 spring clips one on each side a putty knife will disengage the clips,, tip once you get one of the sides loose, put a wedge of paper into the crack on the side and move to the other side to work on the ohter clip