Softens water only a little. Brine valve asm. may be damaged. Question: After adding water to the brine tank, does the valve reverse operation and begin sucking water out of the tank to rinse the resin? If so, about how far should the water line recede if the system is working properly?
I am not familiar with your specific model of softener, but generally speaking, adding water to the brine tank is the last step of the regeneration process. This way the water can soak the salt until the next regeneration is called. Then, as you have determined, the valve does reverse direction and draws the brine solution through the resin.
There are other steps involved in regeneration, like back-washing and packing the resin, but you are mostly correct.
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This sounds like a problem with the flow switch(es) that control the operation of the pump motor.
When the pressure decreases I assume that the pump has switched itself off - check this before going any further, but I will assume that this is the case. (If the pump is still running when the pressure decreases then you have a really strange problem and I would need to think again).
The pump motor is controlled by flow switches on the outlet side of the pump - when the shower valve is opened the flow of water activates a switch that supplies power to the pump motor. There will be one flow switch on the hot outlet from the pump and another on the cold outlet.
I assume that one or both of the flow switches is not operating correctly. This can be either a fault with the switch(es) or insufficient water pressure on the inlet side. Has anything changed that might have reduced the pressure on the inlet side of the pump? Have you moved the water tank that supplies the pump? (cold water storage tank)
If there is adequate pressure on the inlet then one or both of the flow switches is not working correctly. To further diagnose the problem try turning the shower valve to cold water only and test the operation of the pump, then turn it to hottest and test again.
If the pump operates correctly on cold only or hot only then the associated flow switch is OK, and the other one is faulty.
Replacing a flow switch is not difficult if you are reasonably handy, and I am happy to provide further help if you need it.
Well, there was no good solution. I capitulated and called in a professional Sears repair guy. He was as baffled as I about what was wrong. We just started throwing parts at it until the problem subsided. We finally decided there must have been a tiny vacuum leak somewhere, probably in some rubber part.
Check for iron content of the water in your area. Excessive iron will clog the zeolite beads in your softener and reduce its life. You can try increasing the backwash and rinse cycles to see if it helps. You can also get an iron pre-filter for a softener. I am assuming you have either a private well or a municipal well.
I don't have a wiring diagram for this machine so I can't be specific, but I may be able to offer a few suggestions. Check for voltage on the coil by slipping the two wires back off their coil connections you should be able to expose enough of the connection to measure voltage. If voltage exists when machine should be filling, you either have a bad coil, or water is not reaching this point. Check coil resistance by removing wires and testing coil. Resistance reading of 0 or O/L (out of range) would be grounds for replacing the coil.
If coil tests good, look for plugged water filters on water line leading to machine.
Hope this helps,
To find out you need to cut away the white cover to see where the leak is coming from. This white cover is just cosmetic.
If the leak is on the connection where the supply line comes in, then is usually can be fixed.
If the leak is on the metal of the tank below the connection, then there is no fixing it. The metal just below the white plastic is part of the tank.
If the leak is on the connection, it can all be replaced. I recommend replacing the nipple going into the water heater with a 3/4" x 3" brass nipple. From there I recommend using a 3/4" x 3/4" x 18"-24" copper water heater flex. This assuming that you have a flex line installed now. If not I still recommend the brass nipple and the copper flex, but you can get a 3/4" Sharkbite Male adapter to adapt to copper pipe. (Use this fitting instead of having to solder. This fitting is found at Home Depot and Lowes. Be sure not to have any burrs on the copper pipe, because Sharkbites use an O'ring which can be damaged by any burrs.)
If you have a different plumbing installation, please contact me.