"DLB Relay 1 or TCB Open" What does this mean?

http://www.uncleharrywizard.com/nephewclub/wizardrange/dacor/dacor-technical-manual--.pdf

cool down before it opens if you started the clean timer, f8 code, might be that its on a timer

It sounds like it is broken. You can bypass it by connecting the 2 wires together. This should be fine until you replace it. They aren't that expensive.

In my case the problem was the solder around the pins of the DLB relay heated up and melted away from the pin. I found this info on another post. I put more solder on and built it up to the top of the pin to provide more metal there.

Update 8/27/2016
I've found other similar problems, e.g. on a Bosch dishwasher. The symptom is solder is vaporized on relay pins. One poster said if the relay contacts wear and increase their resistance this will cause the pins on the circuit board to overheat and vaporize the solder. So if this is the case just adding more solder may only add additional time. The true fix would be to replace the relay to solve the overheating problem. Nevertheless it's been four years since I added solder and it's still working fine.

I also had a problem like this with my Craftsman garage door opener. It was flaky- it would sometimes just blink and then stop (and it wasn't the obstruction sensor). When I took out the circuit board I found a poor solder joint. Some posters also said the pins on the circuit board connectors could fatigue and stop making good contact (in this case you have to bend them to make good contact again). Likewise the wall button/IR motion sensor started acting up and I found resoldering some pins fixed it. So loose solder or connector issues might be common.

Error code F1 means failed thermistor/transistor in control.

To resolve this issue you'll just have to replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC).

Good luck.

In plug. Wait 1 minute plug back in

Code F2 errors mean that something is wrong with the keypad; I suggtes check the keypad if is firmly connected with the control board, then press "Cancel." If the error returns after 1 minute, you will have to replace the keypad. Also, try check the relay board (its possible you will have to replace). It may be a stand alone board or it may be part of the ERC (Electronic Range Control). If you know how to check you won't have to call a tech.

Hope this helps.

Jump online & get the schematics for your oven.. You'll need to troubleshoot the bake circuit, which is comprised of 2 - 120VAC legs (240VAC is applied during bake). One 120VAC leg is from the DLB relay and the other is from the Bake relay. if either one is bad, or not energizing, you won't get any power to the bake element. (The bake element runs 100% of the time during the bake cycle. broiler only operates 25% of the time during bake) I have had luck re-soldering the relay leg nodes on the backside of the relay board, as they develop "opens" over time. The relays are designed for ridiculous ##s of cycles, so they're not *usually* bad.

You probably have a burnt out element.

Buy a new one