Question about Dryers
Depending what the problem is it could cost several hundred dollars to repair it. Probably cheaper to buy a new one and at least it would be under warranty
Posted on Mar 02, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your dryer has a non-resettable "thermal safety fuse" part number 3392519 which stops the machine dead when the temperature near the heater gets too high. Typically a restricted vent system causes this so you definitely want to check that before replacing it. A failed control thermostat can also cause this so check the operating temp too.
Posted on Dec 30, 2007
possible bad thermal fuse remove back look for small white object on left side just above blower on side if lint screen housing with continuity checker ck to make sure there a closed connection through fuse
Posted on Jun 06, 2008
SOURCE: Dryer won't turn on for 2nd load
A couple of things is to make sure you have 110v at the recepticle, if you do then it's with in the dryer. It could be the door switch wont close, thermal over load won't reset in your motor(if it got hot enough to open, you said it had been in use) , broken belt switch if your dryer has one, or even the thermal fuse (in series with L-1) opened up. Ohm out the door switch in the closed position, it should read 0 ohms, Same with the thermal fuse, should read 0 ohms, not an open read.Good Luck..MJE
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
Based on your description of the problem, I came up with a theory. Your new dryer is of higher wattage than your old one and is therefore pulling more amperage. I'd also make a bet that your dual breaker in the basement has the number "30" printed on it. Whether it does or not, your breaker should be replaced.
NOTE---> Ideally, you'd begin by removing the breakers (there are 2 of them) from the panel and take them with you to Lowe's, Home Depot or Ace Hardware and ask one of the sales associates for a 40 amp version. This way, you'd be sure to get the right ones. If you don't want to do that, then open up the breaker box and copy all the information off of the dryer breaker (also take not of how wide it is... 1/2", 3/4", etc...). Basically you'll need who made it (Square D, G.E., etc...) and how wide it is. Use this info to shop for a 40 amp version.
I don't need to tell you that working inside a breaker box can be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if you are not careful. Here is a picture of the inside of the box, NOTICE THE LUGS AT THE TOP! THEY ARE ALWAYS "HOT" AND SHOULD NEVER BE TOUCHED!!!!!
Before you remove the panel to access the interior of the box, TURN OFF YOUR "MAIN BREAKER" (it's shown in the picture above).
Now that all of the safety stuff is covered, all you gotta do is pull the bad breaker out and install the new one! Piece of cake, really. Here's a video on how it's done.There ya go! If this has been helpful for you, please remember to rate this solution. Thanks for using FixYa!
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
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