I have an ge proline magnetic t12 ballast it has two red leads two blue leads and two yellow where as my fixture has one red one blue and the hot and nuetral are wired through the other side of the bulb cant get the new ballast to work

Your description sounds like the connectors for the tubes. Also RECHECK wiring. Different on newer ballasts. See below...

Turn off fixture, unplug, or deactivate fuse...

Pull out bulbs and the tin fixture cover/reflector.
Extract the bulb connector. Go to hardware and buy 4 more, and just replace them. The connections fail where the wire connects and the rigours of bulb replacements damage this piece. TONS easier to get new pieces.

ALSO!!!! many new (fancy schmancy) ballasts WIRE UP completely differently from the old ballast. Follow the wiring diagram on the NEW ballast. This detail trips up many.

Doc

Rule #1: TURN OFF THE POWER AT THE BREAKER PANEL.
A fluorescent light ballast is a transformer that outputs a higher voltage than the input (120 volts). The electrocution hazard is very real.
Practically all ballasts have a drawing printed on the label. As a master electrician I still need the drawing to install them properly. Electronic ballasts should have a black and white wire for input voltage. The output to the lamps will be some combination of: red, yellow, blue.
The new ballast must also be matched to the type of lamp. Old fluorescent lamps were T12 (refers to the diameter). New lamps are T8 and produce more lumens with lower amperage.

The feeder or supply power wires (black and white) are the primary of the ballast or transformer, if we are talking about house wiring. The secondary side of the ballast (usually red, blue and yellow wires) supplies from 600 to 800 volts to the lamps. This makes this job very dangerous. Are you sure you want to do this job? Buy a repacement fluorescent fixture, the cost of the ballast will be about the same as the cost of the fixture.

1 Turn off the circuit breaker that's delivering the power to the light fixture.

2 Test the feed wires with a touch-type voltage tester before you touch them. Press the button on the tester and touch the tip of it to each wire to make sure the circuit is dead. If the tester beeps or lights up then the circuit is still live. Try additional breakers until you find the correct one.

3 Strip about 3/4 inch of insulation from the ends of each wire coming from the ballast if they aren't already prepped for wiring. Use the smallest setting on the wire stripper to prevent snapping the wires when you strip them.

4 Take the single red wire from the ballast and insert its tip into one of the two pressure-slots on top of one of the sockets on the same side of the fixture that the red wire is facing.

5 Take a 6-inch length of similar red wire and strip 3/4 inch of insulation at each end, then insert one end into the second slot on the socket that already has the red ballast wire attached and insert the other end into the other socket on that side.

6 Insert the tip of one of the blue wires into the slot on one of the sockets on the other side of the fixture.

7 Insert the tip of the second blue wire into the slot on the other socket on that side of the fixture.

8 Connect the white wire from the feed circuit to the white wire on the ballast and connect the black wire from the feed circuit to the black wire on the ballast. Make sure the wire connectors are on tight and wrap electrical tape around the connections.

9 Put the fixture back together and install the fluorescent tubes as per the manufacturer's instructions. Turn the circuit breaker back on.

Power to the ballast is good. The power you checked is known as the primary power. The secondary power from the ballast (transformer), should be around 600 volts. This 600 volts is what vaporizes the gas in the fluorescent lamp. Go to home depot and buy a magnetic field tester (we call it a thumper) It has a shirt pocket clip on it. Do not insert the thumper in the fixture lamp sockets, just put it in front of one of the light fixture sockets. It should beep and the light on the magnetic field tester (thumper) should come on if you have a magnetic field in the light fixture socket. This means that the light fixture ballast secondary is working. No beep and no light from the magnetic field tester (thumper) means your ballast is bad. Ballast are dangerous to replace. Have an electrician replace it. Your life is not worth losing over saving a few dollars.

There are three types of fluorescent 48" bulbs t 12, t8, and t5. they are not interchangable. if you have a fixture that has a t12 type ballast, it will not light up the t8 bulbs. you have to change the ballast to a t8 style. just to clarify, the number stands for 10ths of an inch in diameter on the bulb. a t12 is 1.2 inches, a t8 is .8 inch and a t5 is .5 inch.

Try this link-- for a wiring diagram--- let us know if this helps-- Mack
http://www.replicasuper.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/T12-Ballast-Wiring-Diagram-Here-Is-An-Example-Of-A-Circuit-That-You-Can-Make-The-Guidelines-For-Making.jpg

If I understand correctly, you have Leviton florescent dimmer

And you want to connect dimmer to Lutron ECO-series ballast

This is the ballast with 3 wires: Hot dimmed, Neutral and Hot


Is this your dimmer???? Has Black, White, Red, Yellow-red, & Orange




Here's how to do it:
Dimmer yellow-red is not used except for 3-way switch >> cap it off with wire nut
Dimmer orange wire connects to ballast Dimmed Hot
Dimmer red wire connects to ballast Hot
Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral

Those are your wires going to ballast. As you can see, you need 3 wires going to florescent fixture

Next, let's focus on Dimmer:
Dimmer green wire goes to bare ground wire
Dimmer black wire connects to Hot from breaker box (we'll test for that next)
Finally the Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral as discussed above BUT is also has to connect to Neutral from breaker box

This means the Dimmer white wire is connected to 2 wires >> one wire goes to florescent fixture and the other wire comes from breaker box


So which wires come from breaker box??
It should be a black and white wire.
Let's test to find Hot and Neutral that come from breaker box.

Mark your wires.
Disconnect all the wires and separate from each other
Turn on power
Use ordinary tester
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands stay away from electricity
Power is on
Test each wire to bare copper wire
When tester lights up, that is Hot from breaker box ... this wire connects to Dimmer black wire
Now, test the hot wire to each of the other wires
When tester lights up, that is Neutral wire ... this wire connects to Dimmer white wire, and also connects to Ballast neutral.

Connect one wire at a time, and it will work.

check the numbers at the beginning of the bulb itself,, be sure its for a regulated ballast not a electronic one depending on which ballast you have

i have a light fixture with two single pin T96 bulbs, black and white wire go to one end of the fixture, two red wires come out of other end - one wire on each socket, but a have a ballast with two blue wires and a red wire coming out the same end of ballast, how do i wire this up? thanks Charlie