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Hello, i have a B&D GL545 type2 strimmer and it looks like i think looking at exploded drawing its the actuator, a little white plastic bit that slots into the top of the spool in the groove. so my question is how do i go about replacing the actuator? (and is that the actual part i am thinking of?)and also i cant remember is that actuator spring loaded as mine the bit that slots into spool has broken off and is just loose , is it supposed to have a spring on it ? please if you could help to answer i would very much appreciate it please, many thanks, thankyou, pete

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Yes, there should be a spring, it maybe cheaper and less of a headache to just buy a replacement head, if not at any home improvement stores they sell parts for mowers/trimmers. Good Luck Tim

Posted on May 22, 2011

Testimonial: "thankyou, just to have someone confirm that there should be a spring on the part i hope i have described and advice bout less of headache replace head"


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Restring a pgt300 performance power strimmer, it has a white casing which does not come off preventing me from adding more line

There should be 2 plastic tabs which you have to push in, this removes the wider outer base cover of the strimmer spool, giving you access to the bump cap and line spool.

Depending on the style you have, one looks to be a whole replaceable spool unit, one looks like a re-threadable spool.

If you find this useful, please click the 'helpful' tab. Thank you

May 14, 2016 | Garden

1 Answer

My 2006 dodge durango rear hatch door will not open, I am looking for a manual way to open the rear hatch? and a solution to this problem. also looking for a detailed manual for the fuse I am...

I own a 04 durango and the door lock actuator froze up internally and I could not open the rear hatch. After hours of research on my computer nothing seemed to fix the problem. I eventually figured it out myself. You must pull the screws out of the molding on the inside of the rear door. You can now pull the molding toward you and look down at the actuator and latch. You can pull on the molding quite a bit if necessary. I never broke mine and I was pretty agressive with it. Now, on top of the whole mechanism is the lock actuator. There should be a white plastic lever sticking out towards the driver side. If you can slide it from back to forward "forward is front of vehicle", the lock should be working. If not your door is not unlocking. My durango had 3 Torx screws on top of the actuator. Remove them. This will take the actuator off of the latch. Now that the actuator is not binding or holding the lock from moving, again try to move the white plastic lever towards front of vehicle. It should click and you should be able to open the door.

Jun 12, 2011 | 2004 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

I had to replace my twist shifter cable for the front deraileur. A small metal "V" shaped piece dropped out, how do I put this back in and at what position.

Those are pretty tough to replace... The shape of the plastic shifter case should be your guide- there's a little nook that the v-shaped metal sits in. I *believe* that the side with the little bump-out goes towards the middle of the shifter- but you could look for what's called an "exploded diagram" of your shifter online (use the numbers & letters on the shifter for your search). Then you have to line up the two parts correctly (with the number 7 on one part at the little white line on the other) and twist them back and forth just a little bit while you push them together. Sometimes those little guys are impossible to put back together once they've come apart. You could find a cheap replacement for around $25- or try used!
Good luck!

Oct 24, 2010 | GMC Denali 700C Road Bike

1 Answer

Defroster does not work. Only A/C/Heat from front vents, even when set to defrost. Suspected panel/defrost Door Bend Actuator. Any suggestions?

Yes, it sounds like a blend door actuator problem.

By Jeff Frank First you have to remove the glove box to gain access to the plenum. Next, remove the actuator from the box. The actuator is a flat white box that sits on 4 clip posts on the top-left of the plenum. It has a wire harness coming out of it. To remove it take a flat screw driver and pry up the front first then put the screw driver under and towards the back to pop up the back. You will see a white pin coming out of the bottom of the actuator. The pin is "D" shaped. Turn the ignition on and move the heat control and you should see the pin rotate. If not, the actuator is bad or the terminals are corroded. If it does move, set the control to full heat and turn the blower on high. This will force the blend door into the heat position (it is very important to do this).
Take a small dentist mirror and a flashlight and look into the top of the box where the actuator pin goes in. You should see that the chamber is half missing. It should look like the drawing below:
1-1.gif I think they all break in the same spot. Mine was in the position as the one above. Remember you are looking through a mirror so it is a little difficult to determine the exact position. If yours looks like mine did drill your actuator pin in the same place I did. If not, try and gauge where yours will need to go. I had to drill mine four times before I got the right position. I drilled mine with a very small drill bit. If you are looking at the pin from it's bottom, this is where it should be drilled: (drill about 1/2 inch from the bottom)
1-2.gif After drilling the actuator pin hole, you will need something to put through it. I used an old drill bit that was the same size as the hole. Just cut it to length (you will want a little more than 1/8th inch on either side of the pin). Put the rod through the pin (it should be snug so that it doesn't fall out). Then try snapping the actuator back on the box. If the pin won't go in fully the rod might be in the wrong place. Try turning the blower on high again to make sure the door didn't move and try again. If it still won't go in you will have to re-drill the hole. If it does go in, try the heat controls. If they work, congratualtions! Now take the actuator back out and glue the rod in place and put the actuator back on. You just saved yourself $1000. If only the cold or heat works, then either the rod is in the wrong position and will need to be re-drilled, or the door itself is also broken.

Aug 03, 2010 | 2005 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

We are trying to take the water pump out of my 94 ford probe but there is a plastic shield that we cant get off????

Well, I looked at the drawings for all the motor sizes for the 94 Probe (you didn't post your engine size), and I think the plastic covers you are talking about is the timing belt covers...

Exploded view of the timing cover assembly for the 1.5L and 1995 1.6L engines-1995-98 1.8L engine is similar

If this doesn't look right then please post your engine size and I can post the correct drawing for you.

Apr 27, 2010 | 1994 Ford Probe

2 Answers

How do you change a blend door actuator on a 2003 GMC Yukon. Need to know where it is located and how to get to it.

Locks & Lock Systems
Power Door Locks

Diagnosis & Testing
  1. Check the fuses for the door lock circuit. Verify there is 12 volts at the fuse terminal. If voltage is not present, check the wiring.
  2. Remove the door trim panel of the affected door.
  3. Unplug the connector to the door lock actuator. Connect a test lamp across the terminals of the harness.
  4. Verify that the light illuminates briefly in both the lock and unlock positions of the switch.
    1. If it does not, there may be an open/high resistance or a short to ground in the wiring. If the wiring is OK, the IP fuse block is faulty.
    2. If it does illuminate and the lock actuator still does not work, the actuator is faulty.
Removal & Installation
Door Lock Motor

Fig. Exploded view of the front door trim pane


Fig. Exploded view of the rear door trim panel, long wheelbase models

Fig. Exploded view of the rear door trim panel, short wheelbase models


Fig. Exploded view of the front door lock actuator
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  2. Disable the Supplemental Restraint System.
  3. Remove the door trim panel. Refer to the illustration for the mounting screw and lock tab locations. After detaching the hardware, carefully pull it away, then lift it off the door just far enough to detach the electrical connections from it.
  4. Carefully detach the water shield from the door; this will be reused upon installation.
  5. Disconnect the inside door lock rod from the handle retainer clip.
  6. Detach the door lock rod from the retainer clip.
  7. Remove the rubber plug to access the outside handle rod. Disengage it from the clip and disconnect the lock cylinder rod.
  8. Detach the electrical connector and remove the lock from the vehicle.
  9. Installation is the reverse of removal. When installing the lock, tighten the screws to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).

Door Lock Switch
  1. Remove the door trim panel.
  2. Remove the screw securing the switch assembly.
  3. Use a flat bladed tool to remove the switch panel bezel from the panel.
  4. Release the retaining tabs of the switch assembly using wide flat bladed tool.
  5. Remove the lock and window switch assembly from the door panel.

    Fig. Remove the screw (2) securing the switch assembly (1) to the door panel
Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

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2 Answers

Washer is not agitating.


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Dish drawer DD601v2

thats tub home sensor switch, mounts to rear right of cabinet and senses drawer closing along with little black box with red switch should also have a little metal actuator( this is what usually breaks off switch), each drawer uses their own. unistall from cabinet and theres an access panel strictly for replacing theses switches

Feb 12, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in...

1 Answer

Adjusting convergence grid

i correct grid will look all white. all colors aligned up.
you should be able to move the lines with the remote. and you cant burn anything out by doing convergence.

Jan 27, 2008 | Samsung HC-P4752W 47" Rear Projection...

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