Hello, i have a B&D GL545 type2 strimmer and it looks like i think looking at exploded drawing its the actuator, a little white plastic bit that slots into the top of the spool in the groove. so my question is how do i go about replacing the actuator? (and is that the actual part i am thinking of?)and also i cant remember is that actuator spring loaded as mine the bit that slots into spool has broken off and is just loose , is it supposed to have a spring on it ? please if you could help to answer i would very much appreciate it please, many thanks, thankyou, pete

Something is drawing too many amps. Either a poor connection or too high of a watt bulb.

There should be 2 plastic tabs which you have to push in, this removes the wider outer base cover of the strimmer spool, giving you access to the bump cap and line spool.

Depending on the style you have, one looks to be a whole replaceable spool unit, one looks like a re-threadable spool.

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I own a 04 durango and the door lock actuator froze up internally and I could not open the rear hatch. After hours of research on my computer nothing seemed to fix the problem. I eventually figured it out myself. You must pull the screws out of the molding on the inside of the rear door. You can now pull the molding toward you and look down at the actuator and latch. You can pull on the molding quite a bit if necessary. I never broke mine and I was pretty agressive with it. Now, on top of the whole mechanism is the lock actuator. There should be a white plastic lever sticking out towards the driver side. If you can slide it from back to forward "forward is front of vehicle", the lock should be working. If not your door is not unlocking. My durango had 3 Torx screws on top of the actuator. Remove them. This will take the actuator off of the latch. Now that the actuator is not binding or holding the lock from moving, again try to move the white plastic lever towards front of vehicle. It should click and you should be able to open the door.

Those are pretty tough to replace... The shape of the plastic shifter case should be your guide- there's a little nook that the v-shaped metal sits in. I *believe* that the side with the little bump-out goes towards the middle of the shifter- but you could look for what's called an "exploded diagram" of your shifter online (use the numbers & letters on the shifter for your search). Then you have to line up the two parts correctly (with the number 7 on one part at the little white line on the other) and twist them back and forth just a little bit while you push them together. Sometimes those little guys are impossible to put back together once they've come apart. You could find a cheap replacement for around $25- or try used!
Good luck!

Yes, it sounds like a blend door actuator problem.


By Jeff Frank First you have to remove the glove box to gain access to the plenum. Next, remove the actuator from the box. The actuator is a flat white box that sits on 4 clip posts on the top-left of the plenum. It has a wire harness coming out of it. To remove it take a flat screw driver and pry up the front first then put the screw driver under and towards the back to pop up the back. You will see a white pin coming out of the bottom of the actuator. The pin is "D" shaped. Turn the ignition on and move the heat control and you should see the pin rotate. If not, the actuator is bad or the terminals are corroded. If it does move, set the control to full heat and turn the blower on high. This will force the blend door into the heat position (it is very important to do this).
Take a small dentist mirror and a flashlight and look into the top of the box where the actuator pin goes in. You should see that the chamber is half missing. It should look like the drawing below:
I think they all break in the same spot. Mine was in the position as the one above. Remember you are looking through a mirror so it is a little difficult to determine the exact position. If yours looks like mine did drill your actuator pin in the same place I did. If not, try and gauge where yours will need to go. I had to drill mine four times before I got the right position. I drilled mine with a very small drill bit. If you are looking at the pin from it's bottom, this is where it should be drilled: (drill about 1/2 inch from the bottom)
After drilling the actuator pin hole, you will need something to put through it. I used an old drill bit that was the same size as the hole. Just cut it to length (you will want a little more than 1/8th inch on either side of the pin). Put the rod through the pin (it should be snug so that it doesn't fall out). Then try snapping the actuator back on the box. If the pin won't go in fully the rod might be in the wrong place. Try turning the blower on high again to make sure the door didn't move and try again. If it still won't go in you will have to re-drill the hole. If it does go in, try the heat controls. If they work, congratualtions! Now take the actuator back out and glue the rod in place and put the actuator back on. You just saved yourself $1000. If only the cold or heat works, then either the rod is in the wrong position and will need to be re-drilled, or the door itself is also broken.

Well, I looked at the drawings for all the motor sizes for the 94 Probe (you didn't post your engine size), and I think the plastic covers you are talking about is the timing belt covers...



Exploded view of the timing cover assembly for the 1.5L and 1995 1.6L engines-1995-98 1.8L engine is similar

If this doesn't look right then please post your engine size and I can post the correct drawing for you.

LOOK BETWEEN THE MOTOR AND THE TRANSMITION , SEE IF THE WHITE COLLECTER PRONS ARE BROKEN

thats tub home sensor switch, mounts to rear right of cabinet and senses drawer closing along with little black box with red switch should also have a little metal actuator( this is what usually breaks off switch), each drawer uses their own. unistall from cabinet and theres an access panel strictly for replacing theses switches

i correct grid will look all white. all colors aligned up.
you should be able to move the lines with the remote. and you cant burn anything out by doing convergence.

double post.