Question about RTO Atwood DSI-RV Water Heater-6 Gallon

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Water tank is hot, but when you turn the hot water faucet on the water is hot for just a few seconds and then is lukewarm and then cold. What could be the problem?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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co7196
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SOURCE: Intermitent heat from Atwood 10 gal marine water heater

Water level safety shutting down heat source

Posted on May 24, 2009

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kel1guy2002
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SOURCE: Have no hot water flowing at all from my Atwood

Hi and welcome to Fixya.

Here are 2 manuals that should help you in troubleshooting your RV hot water problem.

Multiple times there is a ref. to resetting the reset switch for 30 seconds on the unit (cover removal required)

For the ignition:

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD%2093757%20PS%2011.19.07.pdf

For the water heater:

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD%2093050%20PS%204.9.09.pdf

The manuals as written are full of warnings mixed in with meaningful text. (Not user friendly)

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: my jAYCO rv only get luke warm water for as few seconds and

Also check that by-pass valve(s) is/are, in proper position at back of tank.

Posted on Apr 26, 2010

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: 2010 view winn- the hot water faucets, when wide

Double check that washers inside fittings attached to back of tank, are not wedged or pinched in there restricting flow. Drain tank, relieve water pressure prior, obviously. The other thing is to check that the by-pass is allowing good flow in to tank when in normal operation mode. Have seen those only go half way inside valve, but lever is at wide open setting. If all that checks out, try removing the check valve on tank, and replace it with a 1/2" galvanized pipe nipple, ( or certified plastic/nylon fitting same size) and reconnect water line direct to that, without a check valve. That should do it if nothing else was wrong. Now you have a choice, either change it or leave it out if everything seems ok, but double check that hot water isn't siphoning back to another utility such as toilet if you leave it out and toilet is close. Feeling that cold line (inlet) when water is hot should tell you. I've seen the check valve in both locations, hot (at top of tank) and cold (at bottom of tank -inlet) Not 100% sure why, right from factory that way, but I say, put it on bottom fitting if required at all. Let me know how you make out.

Posted on Oct 21, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: RV water heater problem: my water heater ignities,

I have an Antwood. Tank is very hot. Water from hot water taps is slighty wamed. The flow is good. I dont get it.

Myles

Posted on May 06, 2011

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I have a new AO Smith Electric Hot Water heater. When I turn on the water, at any of my sinks, or my shower, it's very hot for a minute, then it turns lukewarm.


Your water heater may not have been installed correctly. You should get hot water shortly after you turn on the faucet. There may be a defective heating element or temperature controller. Also, the 50 gallon tank may be too large for your application.

Oct 10, 2016 | Water Water Heaters

1 Answer

Why does the water temp delivered from two Visu-temp valves in back to back bathrooms turn lukewarm after about 4 minutes.


personally I would change the temp setting to hotter water .isn't that why we have a cold water valve also to mix you will use less hot in the long run

Jan 15, 2015 | Water Water Heaters

3 Answers

Drain hot water heater


turn off gas
turn off cold water to heater
connect hose to spickot
place hose end outside
turn on spickot
open hot water faucets in house
wait.
when water stops, turn on cold water for 30-60 sec or so to try to stir up any sentiment in tank
turn off cold water and let drain.
close spickot
turn on cold water
let fill till water start coming out hot water faucets then turn off hot water faucets.
turn on gas and relight pilot.
finish bleeding air from hot water faucets.
set water heater thermostat

Jun 14, 2014 | Rheem 43VP50E2 50 Gallon FVR Natural Gas...

1 Answer

Low flow trough the heater


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
Drain a tank:
  1. Shut off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
  3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
  4. Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
  5. To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
  6. Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.
Test and replace a relief valve:
  1. Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
  2. If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
  3. Cut power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
  4. Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
  5. Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
  6. Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
  7. Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
  8. Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.

Oct 08, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

My reliance natural gas water heater overheats causing scalding water to come out of my faucets. I have had authorized service companies come out three times to replace and retrofit different controls and...


Information below is for tank-type electric or gas heater only.

There is a condition called stacking.
This might apply to your water heater or not.
Having authorized service people to your house 3 times suggests more complicated mix of problems.

Stacking is caused when there are repeated short draws of hot water.
As you know, each time any hot water is drawn out of faucet, cold water immediately enters bottom of tank through the dip tube. The dip tube is connected to cold water inlet and runs to bottom of tank.
So all cold water enters bottom of tank close to the gas water heater thermostat.
See illustration of dip tube, that also shows copper thermostat sticking into tank that is connected to gas valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html#flushelectric

Let's say your water heater if fully heated and burner is off.
A short draw of hot water causes cold water to enter tank.
Another short draw. And then another short draw, each draw happens close to same time as other draws.
Water at top of tank is plenty hot, but bursts of cold water get near thermostat and cause thermostat to turn on burner.
Burner heats water and more hot water rises to top of tank. Water at top of tank becomes overheated each time stacking occurs.

Again, a stacking situation may not be the cause of your problem.
However, remember if single-handled faucet is opened straight upward, then that draws both hot and cold water. And cold water immediately enters tank.
Only when the single-handled faucet is lifted with the handle all the way to the right, does it draw only cold water. Even so, some single-handled faucets have bleed-over between hot and cold sides, so hot water is drawn anyway.

Another possibility is that the dip tube ends at or near thermostat, instead of going all the way to bottom of tank. The dip tube should go straight down from cold water inlet, but dip tubes are made of plastic, and some self-cleaning tanks have a curved dip tube or dip tube with perforations that create currents designed to stir sediments off bottom of tank (although this is not proven to be effective deterrent to sediment formation).

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Feb 10, 2011 | RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER

1 Answer

Hot water does not last long. Model 82vh40-2 mnf. 05/2005


If the lower heating element burns out the upper element will heat the top part of the tank then shutoff. homw depot/lowes etc should carry elements. 1 turn off breaker, remove element access cover (the 2 panels on the front of the heater) test for electricity at the reset button ( uppermost device in upper panel) to make sure power is off. 2 turn off water (I usually turn off the cold water main to stop water cross feeding into hot supply line back into heater) 3 disconnect the 2 wires on the lower element, test with continuity tester. shhould be no continuity between terminals and tank, but around 10 ohms between the 2 terminals. Check the thermostat for continuity if tank is cold thermostat should be closed ie zero ohms across the 2 terminals.
If stat is bad replace stat; disconnect wires push it up out of the spring clip insert new stat reconnect. If element is bad: drain tank. connect garden hose to tank drain valve, open tank drain valve turn water main on to clear rust sediment and get water flowing. Next remove filter screen from a hot water faucet then turn on ( a hot faucet upstairs or higher than tank drain). Now turn water main off, air will now go in through hot faucet and tank will drain, takes about an hour. Use a water heater element wrench about$10 to remove element(s) make sure no bits of rubber gasket are left in element opening- dig em out with a screwdriver if needed. Insert new element with its gasket and tighten. reconnect wires DO NOT TURN ON ELECTRICITY! BE SURE TO FILL WATER HEATER WITH WATER ! Turn water main back on -air will come out of the hot faucet for several minutes. When water runs without any air sputtering, turn off faucet and replace the faucet filter screen. check element(s) for leaks. turn breaker back on.

Feb 17, 2010 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

Water is lukewarm. Not hot! Two year old tank, 220 amp is present. Both sides of relay have 220.


Make sure you have power going to elements from thermostats. check lines going to elements.

Luke warm water is the result of an element gone bad most of the time. One at th etop gone will cause you to get just luke warm water and one at the bottom gone will give you real hot and then cold.


The elements are not to exspensive so if it has two you might as well replace both of them. If you just put 1 new one in it will work the old one till it goes.

Cut power off and cut water off to water heater and drain heater, open hot side on any faucet to help it drain. once drained remove element they have a tube type socket at hardware stores for the removal of it.

Put elements in and fill water heater till all air is out of lines before turning power back on. make sure water is flowing out of all faucets before turning power onto water heater.

The reason being is the elements has to be in water not open air in tank or it will blow new ones.

Dec 16, 2009 | Little Giant Water Heaters

1 Answer

WE HAVE CHANGED THE THERMOSTATS BOTH OF THEM, WE HAVE CHANGED BOTH ELEMENTS AND THE WATER STILL DOENT GET HOT ENOUGH. WE HAVE TURNED UP BOTH THERMOSTATS AND STILL NOT HOT ENOUGH. WHEN YOUR RUNNING THE HOT...


WE THOUGHT WE NEEDED ANOTHER THERMOSTAR, BUT WHEN WE WERE LOOKING FOR THE PART THE EMPLOYEE ASKED WHAT WAS THE TROUBLE. WE EXPLAINED, HE SAID YOU DEFINATLY DO NOT HAVE A PROBLEM WITH YOUR TANK AND ASKED IF WE HAD A SINGLE HANDLED FAUCET WITHIN THE HOUSE. NO WE DONT. HE SAID IT SOUNDS LIKE WATER IS MIXING WITH THE COLD WATER THATS THE REASON FOR THE WARM--COLD--WARM WATER. COME TO FIND OUT SINCE WE ARE REMODLING THE BATHROOM, WE HAD BOTH THE HOT AND COLD WATER TURNED ON IN THE SHOWER--BUT WERE PLUGGED OFF AT THE SHOWER HEAD AND THE FAUCET UNTIL THE TILE IS INSTALLED. SOOO ALL MY HUSBAND HAD TO DO WAS TURN OFF THE WATER IN THE SHOWER. NOW WE HAVE PLENTY OF HOT WATER, NO WARM COLD. YEA!!!

Jul 06, 2009 | Whirlpool Water Heaters

1 Answer

Leaking tp valve


It is time for a New Water Heater.....But there are a few steps you can take to "TROUBLE SHOOT" the situation. There is a Drain Valve at the Bottom of the Water Heater. You may have a build up of ....gunk...at the bottom of your water heater, if you have a floor drain in a basement or some way for the water to drain, than you can carefully loosen the drain at the bottom of the tank to FLUSH the tank.....The other option will still reqiure draining the tank and replacing the heating element.. My best Solution is to make sure the bottom of your Mobile home is Insulated Properly From the Wind and Elements. Even Bails of Hay stacked around your Foundation Can be VERY Effective.....MOSTLY THOUGH I THINK IF YOU DRAIN THE TANK AND REPLACE THE HEATING ELEMENT, your problem will be over, With proper Insulation under the Mobile. This has worked for me a few times..... Hope it helps.....Joe

Jan 10, 2009 | Water Heaters

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