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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: craftsman table saw
Alright, I have fixed mine, so maybe the same thing will work for two as well. I actually have a slightly different model (113.298341) but I imagine the electronics follow the same basic layout. FYI, I got a manual online through Sears for free.
Mine has a manual reset thermal overload protector to keep from burning up the more expensive stuff. It is the red "reset" button near the main switch that ought to pop out if it gets too hot, and can only be pushed back in when the machine is back down to a safe operating temp. I overloaded my machine, and the protector broke the circuit, BUT the button did not pop out and I therefore couldn't just push it back in. I took out the protector, and although it looked like the circuit should be closed, there was no conductance through the protector. I took off the tiny bolt on the back of the protector, essentially jostled the thing a little, replaced the bolt, and conductance is now restored. I re-installed the protector, replaced the front cover, and now she works like a charm.
So maybe these reset switches often don't act like they are supposed to? I'd recommend just checking everything in the line, beginning with the main power line in. it will contain three wires: the ground will be bolted to the frame, the others will run to the main switch and the relay, respectively. With the machine plugged in, touch your volt meter probes to the contacts on the way INTO the switch and relay, and you should have 120V. Then, check the switch by turning it to the ON position with the machine plugged in, leaving one probe on the IN contact of the relay, and moving the other to the OUT contact of the switch. Again, you'll get 120V if the switch is working correctly. Alternatively, you could just check conductance through the switch directly w/o involving the relay contact, either way is fine.
Next in line is the thermal switch, which was my issue. Unplug the machine and/or turn off the main switch (I do both, no point taking risks). You'll need to unscrew the switch, which is a black plastic cylinder about an inch in diameter with the red reset button on it, and check for conductance by probing the wires leading into and out of the back of the black plastic cylinder. If you don't get conductance, you're in the same boat as me, and try to fiddle with the bolt and restore conductance. Otherwise, it might be the relay or the capacitor on down the line. If not those, your motor might be shot, but we'll hope thats not the ca$e.
Hope this helps guys, I was really surprised that it turned out to be such an easy fix, you just need a screwdriver, a 3/16 wrench (for the bolt on the switch), and a voltmeter that tests up to 120V and can test for conductance. One thing to be very careful of is the large capacitor in the control box. I just stayed away from it, but I would seek further advice on how to test it if you need to. After taking apart a couple of cameras as a kid, I know not to mess around with those things. Otherwise, just use the same good sense you should bring to any fix involving 120V of electricity and a 10 inch steel blade.
Posted on Sep 06, 2008
you need to grab the blade with something.maybe some pliers(if you are not going to refurbish blade) and loosen the nut in the center of the blade. i think it is a left hand thread(cw to loosen) because of the rotation of the blade. if the nut is on the left when looking from the front it is probably left handed. make sure it's unplugged and wear leather gloves so you don't get cut. install in reverse...
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
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