I recently purchased this pre-owned amp. It began making a poping noise out of one channel. the channel now intermittently works and it seems to run quite hot.
Have disconnected and re-connected all components, still pops. Have disconnected interconnects to pre-amp, left the speakers cables attached and it still pops. Have tried alternate speakers, it still pops.
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This is because your clean channel only runs through the pre-amp section, requiring an increased volume level to match that of the volume of the drive section which is overdriven by the pre-amp circuit. my suggestion is to use lower volume level on the clean channel of the amp. To get any volume boost you may need to match the two channels you could use a signal/volume booster or overdrive pedal between your guitar and amp input, switching it off and back on when you switch back and forth between channels.
The fact that you are gettng noise out suggests that the problem is in the "front-end" of the amp. It sounds like the pre-amp section is smoked. What you are hearing is a little distortion that is getting through the pre-amp stage. This can be as simple as replacing a few cheap ICs. I don't know your exact model specifics, but this should be a straightforward repair. Where are you located?
Anything that blows a fuse has an overload caused by a faulty part. The suspects are the transformer, rectifier, voltage regulator and the large Electrolitic capacitors - all in the power supply section. In amps the devices on the heat sink can cause the fuse to blow.
Again the main suspect in the dead left device is also whatever is on the heat sink. However if can't hear any music etc playing even at full volume on the left you could have lost the left pre-amp stage, but I myself would stick to whatever is on the heat sink as the cause of the trouble.
You need to determine if the power is getting to the audio amp section. For instance with the volume full up is it humming etc? As a 'rule' it's unlikely that both left and right channels will fail at the same time (unless you have done something silly with the amp) you are looking for something that is common to both channels. Which is why the power section is first suspect. The exception to the rule (above) is where amps use say an IC power amp for both channels. You will find this IC on the big heat sink. Check whatever is on that anyway for damage or burning. The only other area could be the pre-amp part. Again this could be a single IC controling both channels, so it's failure could cause a loss of sound. By the way if you can hear music/sound coming through when you put it up to full volume the pre-amp will be generaly good.
Can I assume that you have input signals going to both channels and that you have SWITCHED the cables to make sure that both cables going to the power amp are actually sending signals to it?
That will rule out any cable / pre-amp problems.
After you have done that test, let me know.
Sounds like classic dry joint on speaker terminal ROTELS are well known for it,if you can use a soldering iron or know someone who can resolder the pins where these terminals are connected,always make sure amp is unplugged from wall socket before ...
I purchased a DEH-P780MP and have the exact same sound. My suond however increases in pitch throughout the RPM range and is audible when operating the headunit on ACC. I have found this problem to being typical in Checy Sports cars since I can swap this head unit out from my camaro SS into my Mustang Saleen and the sound disappears. The same is true for a swap into my SUV. Never quite figured it out! I think the 12V line from the fusebox or from the battery itself doesn't have "clean" power.