Question about LG DLE2050 Dryer

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The dryer does not heat. All electrical circuits have been tested and there is power to the dryer on both legs of the power cord. The cool down light stays on with the sensor dry and timed dry settings and the dryer will not heat.

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Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101
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Posted on Jun 19, 2011

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2 Answers

Why isn't the dryer heating up? How old is this dryer, and should I call a repair person or buy a new dryer?


I don't go out ant Google peoples machines her. You need to do it, but no heat almost always means a hilimit switch or the element. Both are fairly easy to fix. You need an ohm meter or voltage meter and a battery to check a hi limit switch, bit just your eyes to check an element. Gonna have to pull the back panel off either way. Really not hard. If you see that the element is broken, replace it. If element is not broken, test the limit switches by using an ohm meter, or test it using a battery and low voltage light tester and battery to see if the circuit is open or closed. Closed means the switch is bad and just MAYBE another prob but not likely.

Dec 12, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer blows circuit breaker after running 10-20 minutes.


indicates problem motor , overheating in the wiring or excessive loads in the drier

Jun 07, 2017 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My Kenmore 400 turns on, tumbles but does not heat up. What could be the problem


I am assuming this is an electric only (not gas) dryer, as I cannot find any tech data on your specific model. This is a general troubleshooting guide for heat issues with electric dryers, going from the most common to least common solutions:

**Standard disclaimer--voltages in a dryer (or any AC connected appliance) are high enough to kill you. If you don't know what you are doing, or have any difficulty understanding what I am saying....STOP and call a professional.

With that being said....

1. Test the power supply feeding the dryer and make sure that both 120 volt legs are getting power in reference to the neutral wire. Check between them (red wire to black wire) and check for 240 volt power. A bad breaker or partially failed 240 volt circuit may still provide power for the motor (which only uses one 120 volt leg) but not the heating element, which uses both 120 volt legs to make 240 volts for the heating element. Be sure to check both the receptacle and the terminals where the cord attaches to the dryer.

2. With the dryer unplugged, and the heating element disconnected, check for continuity between the heating element terminals. You may also be able to visualize the heating element coils if you remove it from the dryer. Most elements are held in place by one small sheet metal type screw, in case you need to remove it.

3. Check for continuity on the thermostat and thermal cutoff switch on the dryer. These parts usually are about 1.5" across and are screwed into the metal housing for the heating element. When the dryer is cool, both of these parts should have continuity. Remember to remove the wires from at least one of the terminals before checking continuity. These parts may look similar. If you have a defective one, google the part number stamped into the side of the part to determine which one is which. They are NOT interchangeable.

4. If all of this checks out ok, you will need to check for power coming from the timer to the heating assembly with the power on. The thermostat, thermal cutoff and heating element are typically wired in series. The two wires coming from the timer area down to the heater assembly should have 240 volts between them when the dryer is powered on and in a heating cycle. Once again BE CAREFUL IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS. IF IN DOUBT, READ THE WARNING ABOVE.

Your dryer may also have a switch to control the heat intensity, independent of the timer. If it does, check that as well.

Good luck, and I hope this helps!

Feb 21, 2012 | Kenmore 400 6942 Dryer

1 Answer

LG electric dryer is not heating. Electric coils test for continuity. Any suggestions?


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating. UNPLUG DRYER BEFORE TESTING ANYTHING.
1- power- Test the receptical to make sure you are getting 220 volts. To do this you need and voltage tester. Both legs should pull 110 and together 220. If one leg is not pulling any power than your breaker is half tripped. Reset breaker to cure your problem. If problem persist it is in the breaker or receptical.
2- cord- To test this unplug dryer. Take the panel covering the cord connections off. Remove cord entirely from dryer. Test each leg for continuity. If any are not showing cont than replace cord.
3- Themal fuse- To test this remove access back access panel on some front panel. By the blower housing there is a fuse white thin sliver or round fuse with 2 wires going to it. The one with 4 wires is your low limit cycling thermistat. The thermal fuse is near that. Disconnect the 2 wires and check fuse for continuity. If meter shows cont fuse it good. If not replace fuse.
4- Hi Limit Thermistat- test same way as thermal fuse. On the heating element housing at the bottom are 3 wires running to a fuse. Test the left and right. The bottom is attached to one of the sides.
5- Thermal Cutoff- Test same way as thermal fuse. This fuse is near the top of the heating elemnt above the Hi Limit. 2 wires with usually plastic covers on them.
6- Heating Element- Below high limit 2 wires. Test for continuity.
If all these fuses are good than you may need to call a technician. The motor may not be getting to the right rpm to activate the senfrigrial switch in the moter. Timer or control board may be out.
7- Motor- If

Jul 16, 2011 | LG DLE2514 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Have a maytag dryer that is 9 years old. The timmer is clicking, the light inside is OFF when the door is open and when I close the door it wont run. I have taken out the thermal fuse (the big one) and...


if the light is out check the door switch as this is a s.p.d.t. switch used to operate the light with door open and the dryer circuit when door is closed,otherwise if its electrically heated with an element,make sure the units getting 240volts,if you are only getting 120 volts it will let the timer or motor run,but only the component thats on the leg/phase that is still hot,tandem pole breakers need to be re-set as they can show good but one leg can be out then only 120 volts instead of the needed 240 volts to heat the unit,a gas fired dryer only needs 120 volts to operate, otherwise then it can be the hi limit thermostat on the element housing or the cycling switch,all need to be good,because its a series circuit,and any one will kill one leg of power if its open/bad

Jun 11, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will not heat up


Beyond checking for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker (find the dryer circuit breaker and turn it off, then back on) I would suggest having a qualified Service Technician look at your dryer. Your dryer operates on 240VAC. One leg of power (L-1, 120VAC) operates the motor and timer. The second leg (L-2, 120VAC) ends up at one side of your heating element while L-1 is on the other side. L-2 goes from your power cord to the juction block, to the motor centrifugal switch and finally to one connection of the heater. L-1 goes from your power cord to the junction block, then through the operationg thermostat and the high limit thermoastat, then possibly a thermal fuse and finally to the other connection on the heating element. L-1 and L-2 together supply 240VAC. No heat at all can be a fault with ANY of the components mentioned.

Nov 18, 2010 | Hotpoint NLL113EYWO Electric Dryer

1 Answer

220 appliances in house all out.lights up but either dont heat or wont bake .lightning could be culprit but never lost tv reception.dryer runs ,no heat.water heater out.stove lights up wont get hot.shut...


Sounds like you have lost one leg of your power

Think of it like this

You an upside down "Y" at the top of your breaker panel
220 - 240 volts come in the Y and break in half 120 volts to each leg of the "Y"
A 220 Volt breaker straddles both legs a 110 volt breaker only contacts one leg
I suspect that you have lost one leg
Possibly at the main breaker ( top most)( main disconnect) in your panel
If you have a tester with the capacity to test 240 you can test the two top lugs where the main wire comes in Test them together That is one probe of your tester on each wire you should show 240+/- volts
Then you can move down through the panel 120 +/- on each leg
Hope this helps if you need more just let me know
Scott

Mar 16, 2010 | Bryant 50 Amp 2 Pole Br250 Type Br Ni...

3 Answers

Dryer has 110V only.Light burns when door is opened.Controle panel does not switch on at all.Each leg where power cord is attached has 110V.I have replaced Thermal Cut-off & High Limit...


Hi,
Your problem is not in the dryer. 220V circuits can be confusing in that the 110 leg can feed back and in reality you are getting the same 110V reading on both legs. Check across the two legs and see if you get 220V if not then you have confirmed what I suspect. Your problem is probably with you circuit breaker in the electric panel. Try switching the breaker off and forcefully turning it back on, You also can take off the panel cover and check to see if you have 220V across the two poles of the circuit breaker. You may have to replace the circuit breaker, it is not uncommon for one leg of a breaker ot go out especially when used on a dryer that pulls high amp. resistance loads.

Heatman101

Dec 26, 2009 | Whirlpool GEW9868K Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat, 120 power to only one leg of heating element. The power was read on the side of the heating element that came from switches. I do not have a schematic, so it is hard to ttrouble shoot, not knowing...


If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Jul 31, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

Not heating up...not drying clothes


If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Jun 22, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MDE7400AY Electric Dryer

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