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Lane deadlock removal...approx 20 years old. Seams to have 2 holes on the back set...no screws.The front & back fittings are turning/spinning???

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Deep within the 2 holes at the back are 2 allen headed screws. On mine they needed a 2mm Allen Key to remove.

Posted on Sep 24, 2011

  • Tracy Hankins
    Tracy Hankins Feb 21, 2015

    God bless you dude. Thanks.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have Lockwood deadlock[20years old] which has come loose. I don't know how to remove rear cap to enable me to get to the screws, the rear cap has 2 holes in it which I assume cover the retaining...


Try turning the inside cylinder with the key. When the "holes" line up with the screws, insert the appropriate screwdriver and tighten them.

Dec 26, 2010 | Locks & Locksmithing

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I have a Lane Dead Lock that I cannot remove. It is about 15 years old. I caanot see any screws to remove the inside cover although it looks like the screws may be internal because I removed 2 caps.


Hi Glen, just wondering if you were able to resolve your problem? I have a similar Lane deadlock & am struggling to remove it. If you are still around on this website ... would appreciate any help/pointers!

Cheers,
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3 Answers

Upper spray arm failure


Easy to solve!
(1) Remove the drawers to give yourself room to work
(a) bottom drawer just comes right out -- but you knew that
(b) Carefully unclip small plastic retainer caps at the ends of the metal "glides" for the top drawer. Then slide the caps out of the glides. Then remove the top drawer.
(2) Unscrew the "gear-like" plastic fitting into whose hole you were sticking your finger when you felt that small cylindrical ring.
(3) Now that you've got access to the ring, the solution is obvious -- use it to snap the upper arm back into the gear-like fitting. When you're done, the arm will rotate freely in the fitting.
(4) Put everything back together and enjoy the fact that you didn't have to pay some yobbo $75 to come to your hous and do this for you!

(HINT: When screwing the gear-like fitting back into place, use the old machinist's trick of pressing gently and screwing backwards until you feel a click. The threads will now be aligned for you to screw things together the right way. If you do not do this, you might experience frustration reattaching fitting -- since the piece it screws onto is spring loaded.)

Dec 06, 2009 | Frigidaire PLD4555RFC Dishwasher

1 Answer

Replace damaged front fork lock on a 1996 harley davidson FXDS-CONV.


Ok, this is how you replace the lock on the front end.

1.Loosen upper triple tree clamp pinch bolts. Remove upper triple clamp and handlebars.

2.Loosen fork stem bolt and let fork stem drop down approx. 5 inches.

Note: On the left side of the steering stem there is a "half moon" indentation that has been machined into the steering stem for the lock. Let steering stem drop until this indentation is in full view.

3. Use a scribe and remove lead plug. (there is a flat looking place below the key lock. The lead plug is underneath this and it hides a set screw. Dig the lead plug out to get to the set screw)

4.Unscrew the set screw

5.Insert key in lock and turn partially.

6.Wiggle lock and pull until enough of the lock comes out to get a grip with pliers or other suitable tool.

7.Rotate steering stem slightly, while pulling on lock until lock is removed.

INSTALLATION

General
There is an internal boss in the left side of the steering head opposite the external boss. The end of the lock fits into this internal boss.

There is a hole in the bottom of the lock into which the set screw fits. This hole must be at the bottom when the lock is installed.

When the lock is correctly installed, a forward-facing flat on the lock will fit against a flat inside the external lock boss and the face of the lock will be flush with the face of the external boss.

1.Steering stem should be in above position. See steps 1 and 2 above.

2.Grease the end of the lock (the part that goes into the internal boss) and slide lock into external boss.

Note: Steering stem must be in locked fork position.

3. Move steering stem into locked fork postition. Rotate steering stem sligtly, while fully installing lock.

4.use Loctite 242 (medium strength blue) and install set screw

5.Use key in the lock and tighen set scrw until lock begins to bind; then back set screw out 1/2 turn.

6.Pound in lead plug (or use a good quality sealant)

7. Install fork stem, upper triple clamp and handlebars.

Right out of the book. Hope it helps. Good Luck.

Nov 13, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXDX Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

Hotpoint WD64 is not spinning or emptying


check the pump, make sure drain hose is not cloghed, ensure the belt is in the place, spin the drum a bit by pulling the belt. then give it a go.
Update me about your progress

Jul 24, 2009 | Hotpoint Aquarius WD640 Front Load...

1 Answer

Old (approx 30 years) gas dryer. It's been great.


The fron comes off. Two screws located toward the bottom front (where the front panel angles in) hold the front on. Then you need to remove the front bulkhead/duct work.

Putting the belt on the idler pulley is the trick. If you get this far and need more help, let me know.
Vic

May 09, 2009 | Dryers

7 Answers

My Hoover steam vac spin scrub model 4060-900 brushes are not spinning and I have lost the manual. Any ideas. Thanks. bushteachers@yahoo.com


The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.


You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.


First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.


Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.


Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.


Vanger Chevane.

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1 Answer

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that belt part number is 341241. Depending on the type of door the dryer has, is how you approach the access of these dryers. Mostly though you yank out the filter first.Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing on top.Then use a putty knife to pop the top. Remove the screws holding the front panel on. VERY IMPORTANT! Raise the front up an inch before pulling forward or the panel clips will break! Some models have a panel on bottom. If they do then this panel must come off first. Then you remove the door springs and back off the screws holding down the bottom of the door panel. Then pop the top and remove the screws on top to get the panel out of your way.Use the belt routing diagram found HERE.

Jan 18, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Won't spin or agitate


Motor to transmission coupling broken. Original WP parts are ruber and plastic. The plastic appears to be a common break part. An improved replacement part is available with metal inserts.

To replace:
1. Unplug washer from power.

2. remove 2 screws on front of machine below dials. This allows you to flip the knob box out of the way.

3. Disconnect 3-prong electrical connector.

4. Remove springs holding outer case to back of unit. A flat screwdriver will make this easy.

5. Tip outer case of washer forward then rock the case side-to-side to dislodge it from the front seat. Remove outer case and set aside.

6. Disconnect the electrical connection to the pump and the 2 connectors to the capacitor.

7. Remove retaining clips from the pump with a flat screwdriver. Do not remove hoses from pump.

8. Remove retaining clips from motor. These should be secured by a screw which will need to be removed first. Remove the top clip first and the motor will tilt down.

9. The coupling is comprised of 3 parts, two plastic gears with legs which slip into the black rubber connector. One gear fits onto the shaft from the transmission or "gearbox", the other fits onto the shaft coming from the motor. One is probably broken and there will likely be black debris from the rubber connector. This lets you know for sure this was your problem. The gears will need to be removed by prying them off or use of a gear puller.

10. The replacement part runs $15-20 and should be in stock at a good appliance parts center or it can be found on the interent but you may have to wait a day so plan your repair accordingly.

11. Install the gears on both shafts first. A 3/8"+ socket and extension can be used to tap the gears onto the shaft fully. Once the gears are installed, place the rubber connector on one gear and lift the motor into position to fit the coupling back together.

12. Reinstall the retaining clips on the motor and the screws on the clips.

13. Reinstall the pump and its retaining clips.

14. Reconnect the 2 connectors to the capacitor and the electrical connection to the pump.

15. Reinstall the outer case by first setting the front edge into position on the frame and tilting it back into position.

16. Reinstall the springs holding the outer case to the back of the washer. The flat screwdriver will help again.

17. Reconnect the 3-prong electrical connector and flip the knob box forward into postion.

18. Reinstall the 2 screws holding the knob box on the front of the washer.

19. Plug the washer back in and test the washer by setting it to the spin cycle to see that it spins.

20. For the do-it yourselfer it should take an hour to an hour-and-a-half plus time to and from the parts store.

Dec 08, 2008 | Whirlpool LSB6300PW Top Load Washer

8 Answers

Front load washing machine would not spin now won't wash either.


Sounds like you have a broken belt or a bad motor. The easiest way to tell if the belt is bad is to reach inside the drum and turn it. If it turns very easily, you probably have a bad belt or something has caused the belt to jump off, such a s a loose pulley or bad bearing. If it feels like there is a good amount of resistance, or a kind of "winding up" noise, then the belt is still on and you likely have a bad motor. Also, you could just scoot the macine out, unplug it, and remove the back cover a look inside to see if the belt is still on the pulleys. Good Luck!

Oct 17, 2006 | Bosch Exxcel WFO 2465 Front Load Washer

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