You're not insulting my intelligence! Please talk to me like you would a mentally challenged person.
I replaced 2 thingies in the bottom back of the dryer. They cretainly look like thermostats. Size of a nickel/quarter. After replacing those, I tried the dryer again. But it still didn't start It's still trying to cool down. And now I have 2 loads to dry. I checked to see if there was any lint clog in the hose thingy. It looks all clear.
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Re: Electric Kenmore dryer
Okay, you replaced the thingies, but did you check the doodad? Sorry...I have to say, you have one of the most original ways of phrasing a question that I've ever seen. On a slightly serious note, I need to ask you a question or two. Is the dryer drum spinning but no heating? Or, is the dryer not running at all? The thingies would more than likely be the hi limit thermostat and thermal fuse that you replaced. There's also a heating element in that circuit. Please take a look at this link for a full explanation of how to diagnose a dryer problem:
I know this link is rather lengthy, but it is helpful. I know you said you checked the hose thingy, but have you checked the dryer interior, or the remaining ducting that exits the house? About midway through the write up it explains how to determine if you have an air flow problem. This is very important. Without proper air flow, you can replace all the bad components you want, but the dryer will still have heating and drying problems and will eventually fail again. Please read through this if you haven't done so already. Let me know if you still need assistance. When you post back, please include your complete model number (located around the door opening) so I can assist you better. I hope this helps you.
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No Mary, these are not the 2 fuses the manual talks about. As you said, they are breakers. The fuses would probably be inside the part of the dryer top that holds the switches and timer thingy you turn to start set the dryer. Go to link below. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/kirkland-dryer-parts/model-SEDX600JQ0/3192/0151200/O2030137/00003.html
It talks about a thermal fuse - item 23 ($15.46) on the list and in the drawing. This fuse and #24 - Dryer operating thermostat ($20.20) are the 2 most commonly replaced parts on this dryer. If you are handy with tools you should be able to replace these.
Hi, Most likely you have a bad heating element or a bad wire/connection. The only way to test is with the cabinet open and the dryer running. I would recommend that only a qualified person or tech perform this. I hope this helps. If I can t anything else to help please let me know.
This seems to be an electric dryer so, no pilot light.
The heating element might have failed or it has a heavy current fuse that has failed.
There aren't many things that a dedicated DIYer can't do given time, a few common tools and some common sense.
Having a multimeter at home helps too; these can be had at electronics or auto parts stores and usable instruments can be had for <$20 US.
Somewhat intelligible Chinglish instruction sheet is included.
Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses dryer ventilation. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by poor air flow due to clogged ventilation. Follow the advice given to isolate whether you may have a ventilation problem internal or external to your dryer first. You may not have anything wrong but some lint accumulation. If left in a clogged condition, the dryer heating circuits will eventually overheat to failure.
If you verify everything and still have long dry times, make sure you are separating items correctly. I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, but some people simply do not know. For example: dry towels and jeans separately from other articles of clothing because they take longer. And. overloading a dryer will make it dry less efficient.
I hope you find this information helpful. Please let me know if you still require assistance.
Okay, the little white thingy you mention is the thermal fuse. If it were to blow, the dryer would not run at all. They usually blow like a fuse and require replacement, however, I have experienced on one occasion where the dryer would shut down in the manner you mention, and it was caused by a thermal fuse that was tripping off. I couldn't explain it, but I replaced it and the dryer worked fine after that. That could very well be a possiblity. Normally, problems like this are caused by the operating thermostat going bad. That the other thingy thats mounted next to the thermal fuse. The link I sent you should have information on how to check them. The heating element should not be considered a problem at this point. It would not cause the dryer to shut down if it were to fail. Your symptom would be a dryer that runs, but does not heat. Let em know if you have further questions.
The heating element is probably accessed through a removable panel on the back face of the dryer. The element looks not unlike the heating element in an electric oven, but smaller. After you remove the back panel, you may have to take apart the heating duct in which it resides, which can be tricky. Or you may be able to remove the bad heating element without removing and splitting the duct. Do you have a friend who is handy to help you?
The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.
Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.
CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.
PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.