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My LOREX SG19LD804-161 surveillance system suddenly stopped working and a totally blank LCD screen. There is a constant tweak sound every second. None of the indicator lights are on PWR, REC, NET. I can see a red led light blinking on the PC board in sync with the tweak' sound when peering through the vents on the back above the 'Ethernet ' and 'DC12 ' marking on the back panel and slightly to the left of the Ethernet' marking. Can you suggest some troubleshooting tips to repair.

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  • michael wilson Sep 21, 2012

    I have the same problem. Did you find the fix?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Black screen and no sound on TV

what is the brand, model? try to be specific if you want be helped!!!

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: 50 " Phillips Plasma tv. Screen is black, blinking red light.

Sounds more like blown/exploding capacitors on the PSB-Power Supply board. No OSD-on screen display a blinking led or chatter/relay clikcing at startup is the tv going into fault protection and bypassing the startup pins. The YSUS-Main controls the pic which is attached to 2 buffer boards the YBU-upper YBL-Lower. They control the upper and lower portion of the OSD and the YSUS controls both of them. Since you're getting No OSD you need to check for blown caps on the PSB first. Unplugging the set resets the error again. So you start all over again.

Best Rgards and Semper Fi

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia

http://www.smpcshop.com/KDL-40WL135-KDL-46WL135-p-8895.html
Above is a link for a service manual.

Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause" it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.

Posted on Feb 24, 2011

Ecollier2012
  • 3459 Answers

SOURCE: Sony LCD TV Model #KLV-23HR2 The timer LED

This is a common problem an a failry easy DIY fix.

Plasma and LCD TV sets are prone to having capacitors in the power supply section fail. This is the most likely cause for the probem you describe. When capacitors fail your will commonly see one or more of the following symptoms.

  • No video, Power light is on or blinking.
  • TV is making a clicking noise.
  • TV takes a while to come on
  • Screen is very dim or flickers.

Again, You can get a power supply repair kit with the parts, detailed instructions, and support from sites such as www.TvRepairKits.com . Or just click here to see more details on their kit.

Here are pictures of capacitors...Notice that the ones below look bloated. They have failed and will need to be repalced.


ecollier2012.jpg
Capacitor being replaced! Fairly easy DIY fix.

ecollier2012_0.jpg
Again, You can get a power supply repair kit with the parts, detailed instructions, and support from sites such as www.TvRepairKits.com . Or just click here to see more details on their kit.
.

Posted on May 01, 2011

caroldon
  • 17129 Answers

SOURCE: PANASONIC TH-L32c20m When i

In most cases the standby light might blink with different rapidity to indicate a fault relevant to the processor. It is possible that most of these indicate that there are errors in the processing section . Since there is a possible short or leak in the circuit the output driver section can take in huge current to trip the SMPS or from advice from the micro processor. Remove the power plugs and make sure that high voltage sections are discharged of the potential stored in capacitors. Look for visible signs of leak or of busted capacitors. Look for bulged capacitors or damaged components- burnt or busted. Use a multimeter to check the continuity or shorting in components, if so detach from circuit and test . If the voltage builds up and the set power ON and then shuts up then the suspected section must be checked in detail.

The processor must have the +5 voltage to the function properly , the +B and secondary voltages also must be checked to infer the fault. Trace with caution and in running through the signal path , circuit trail.

Check for tips to check the SMPS unit:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5826301-working_switch_mode_power_supplies

Thank you for using fixya.

Posted on Aug 18, 2011

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