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Stove appeared to be working up top with lights, but burners and element in stove not getting hot. Then the lights on top started to work sometimes and now, nothing. Changed to new breaker. No work. Hum.... a reset switch?? plug checked and replugged after time... Now what? Smooth top GE model JBS55 D M2WW 3 years old, NO problems till now, worked last night fine.. lightning storm last night...... nothing else affected and this is the only thing on this breaker. Funny how top worked for a while, the display part.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Oven stopped working while cooking a meal

it sounds like it burnt one of your main wires in the back of range. by turning a knob on you are getting a feed back. turn the power off remove back panel take a visual check of your wiring.

Posted on Dec 14, 2007

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  • 1891 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire ES200/300 316257123

look for a shorted bake element .. you should be able to see where it poped. ( some times ) if you have ohm meter you can ck for an open element . **** //

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

TheMobilian
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SOURCE: Oven appears to start, takes forever to preheat,

This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.

Posted on Feb 26, 2010

Testimonial: "This advise seems right on. Thanks for your fast and detailed advise. Steve"

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Frigidaire gallery stove, oven not working,

Morison,
The same thing happened to me about a week ago. I was preheating our electric oven, heard a very loud bang/pop. Checked and the oven had PF (power failure) I went downstairs and the breaker was tripped. Came back upstairs and to look at stove, the burners are working fine so I continued to preheat oven after a half an hour the oven was only slightly warm. Did you ever find out what was wrong?

Posted on Aug 07, 2010

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Hi, I cannot get the oven element or the back left burner to heat up.I found a blown 15 amp fuse blown in the oven and replaced it but still no power to the two elements. I took out the oven element to...


I take it when you mention burners you are refering to electrical hot plates?

If you have tested with 110V --even nthough it should be 240V then I can assume that the hob is working.

Possible cause is the regulator.

Regards

Aardvark Repairs

Nov 16, 2009 | GE Ovens

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Kenmore electric stove with glass/cermanic top. Element on light indictor light stays on all the time even though no burners have been turned on for 5 hours. None of the burners are hot when you run your...


Tony, this sounds like you may need to have a new burner switch installed, it is called an infinite switch. If it is for the dual burner, make sure you tell the appliance parts store this so they can order you a dual infinite switch.

Nov 08, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

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I have a an AMANA gas stove burners work but oven doesn't


First check the book to see if you have a igniter on this stove if so it takes a moment or two to get started, if not you need to light pilot
make sure gas is getting to burner when called for by the thermostat or oven control..

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Whirlpool Accubake Super Capacity 465 gas range. Oven won't light


Some gas ranges may take 10 or so minutes to light.
Other than that you may have a defective glow bar ignitor.
If it glows and does not light the reistance in the ignitior has failed.

Feb 25, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Indicators lights come on


First thing to check is to put your hand over the burner when the indicator comes on and see if the burner is actually hot! DO NOT actually touch the burner! The smell of your own burning flesh is not so pleasant, and could cause you to pass out with your hand still on the burner or something like that, so be careful. More than likely, the problem is with the burner switch, but could be with anything between that and the actual element.

What did they quote you $350 to repair???? Was that parts and labor, or just parts? Sounds very high. If, however, you have one of the older stoves with a ceramic top that had the element in the top, you have to replace the whole thing to fix one burner, not very smart, economically. Newer stoves use seperate elements beneath the glass top, and so are much less expensive to repair.

Go to the Sears.com website, and click on the parts link (it's in a line of grey typed links, relatively small font, a couple of inches below the top of the website home page, and toward the right side.) Type in your model number on the right side of the parts page where it says to, and it will come up with a parts breakdown that has a list of the parts and their prices. If they never sold your model, you might have to come up with a similar model that they did sell in order to get parts listings that would work.

That will at least give you an idea of prices. You should also look at the switch for that burner.  If the burner won't run on either size setting, I'd suspect the switch or that the power is not getting to that switch.

Remember, you are working with 220 VOLTS here, and be very careful. But if you can handle a voltmeter, you can determine if power is getting to the switch, and getting out of the switch, and if it is getting to the element. You can buy a DVM at Radio Shack or Sears, or just about anywhere else, these days. Elenco is a company that makes decent ones very cheaply, and you can buy them online. Or you might have a friend or relative who has one at home, and knows how to use it around 220 volt circuits....

Jan 26, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

Neither the stove top nor the oven get hot!


Hi and welcome to FixYa.com

First thing you want to check is the power supply (fuse or circuit breaker) to your oven.
Now, before you say "RescueTech it can't be the fuse because the indicators light up and I can set the controls!" read on-
Your range and oven elements are 220V units. This requires both legs of the 220 (L1 and L2) in order for them to heat up. Your indicator lamps and controls are 120V, therefore they will continue to work if one leg of the 220V feed is not present. It is very unlikely that all your switches and elements have failed at once. So start first at your fuse or breaker box. If you have cartridge fuses, you need an continuity tester or ohmmeter to check them. If you have breakers, there are two styles- One is a "single lever" style that controls both legs of the supply. The other style is a "double pole" breaker that is actually two separate breakers connected by a pin between them. Oftentimes one side will trip but not the other. You will actually be able to visually see this as the pin will appear crooked as one breaker is in the ON position and the other is in the TRIPPED position. Turn off the breaker (both sides will move together) and then reset it to the ON position. Now the pin should appear straight and both breakers should be in the ON position.

If the breaker seems to be fine, the next thing I would check is the terminal block where the range cord is connected to the appliance. As a journeyman technician, I often see where the installer failed to properly tighten the range cord's terminals when he/she installed the range cord. The appliance will function for awhile, sometimes for a few years even, but that connection gets HOT every time the range is used, and especially when the oven and all 4 burners are used together (Like on a HOLIDAY!) What will eventually happen is that the terminal will literally burn away and break the connection to one side of the 220. The result is anything "low voltage" on the appliance such as clock, lights, timers, indicators) will still work, however the elements will not heat up.

Before you start changing parts, check these things. I would be very curious to know how this one turns out. Just remember that the top burners and the oven have no connection to one another other than the supply voltage.

I hope this helps and have a happy and safe New Year from all of of here at FixYa!!




Dec 27, 2008 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

My right front burner will not turn off on my electric stove top.


Its probably the switch for that element, the contacts are fused. If this is a smooth top ceramic stove then the control relay board relay for that element is stuck.

Dec 20, 2008 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

Whirlpool electric stove


The ideal thing to do, would to be to replace the elements themselves. Most heating elements for stoves are universal and can be bought at lowes stores. I found your model number specific burner elements on a supply website for 42.00 each on the 8 inch and 35.95 each on the 6 inch elements. I am almost certain, you'll find these parts at lowes or home depot much cheaper. If this doesn't help, let me know, we will try another route.

Apr 15, 2008 | Ovens

1 Answer

Oven and stove top not getting hot.


The most probable cause is that the heating elements are getting 110V instead of 220V. Check the voltage to the heating elements.

Sep 07, 2007 | Ovens

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