Can't replace belt and wheel - Dryers

turn the hand wheel, perhaps?

To do the belt. + as long as your patience lasts...
1. UNPLUG the washer.
2. check you've unplugged.
3. Open the top of the machine - see the sides of the lid about 10 cm from front, remove plastic cap on each torx head, undo torx. (torx set required)
4. Remove concrete block from top - large spanner is required - remember the sequence so you can replace later.
5. Lean over the drum and see the large drive wheel. To pop the belt off, turn the wheel forcing the belt to the edge of the wheel. It will eventually come off.
6. to replace belt - see motor shaft at bottom of unit. Dangle belt round shaft of motor and gently pull so it does not come off.(This is not easy!)
7. At the same time Ease one side of the new belt back on to drive wheel on the back of the drum.
8. Turn Drive wheel until belt is on.(This is not easy and requires alot of hand strength)
9. Replace concrete block with bolt and spanner in reverse sequence you removed it.
10. replace lid, torx and cover for torx.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Not all will apply to every dryer. Check our video page for more style dryers.

Rollers

Many dryers use rollers or wheels to support the clothes drum. When these rollers are worn, they can be noisy. You should replace the whole set of rollers at the same time. You will need to disassemble the dryer to check these. Some dryers use rollers in both the front and rear. Check our videos for other style dryers.

Belt

The Belt should be replaced if you hear any noise coming from it or if there is any cracking, glazing, or grooves worn out. Replace the Belt along with the idler pulley.

Idler pulley

Dryers have a tension or idler pulley that keeps tension on the main drive belt. When it's worn, it can be noisy. When that happens, don't lubricate it. Just replace it.

Glides

Many dryers use nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn, they can be noisy. When that happens, replace the glides and bearing housing if necessary. Put hand inside drum near front and push up there should be no play.

Rear drum bearing

Some dryers support the clothes drum in the rear with a center spindle instead of rollers. The spindle may be a ball-and-socket type support or a shaft through a sleeve. When the components are worn, they may squeak, squeal, or rub. You can't repair them. Just replace the rear bearing when they're worn. Put hand inside drum near rear and push up there should be no play. This video walks thru another type.

Blower wheel

Your dryer's blower wheel pulls air over the heat source, through the clothes drum, and past the thermosta ts, then pushes it out the exhaust duct. The blower wheel, which is usually plastic, may wear out over time. But if it's noisy, it may simply be clogged with lint. Clean the blower and test to see if the dryer is still noisy. If it is, you probably need to replace the blower wheel. Many times the blower wheel is making the noise and it is commonly mistaken for the motor.

Motor

The motor may be making noise. The easy way to check is to remove the belt and turn the dryer on if it is noisy replace the motor.

pull off what looks like hub caps and check the wheel clutches

No, you don't have to remove the crankshaft with the large wheel. Just make sure the compressor is unplugged and you use only hand pressure on the crankshaft to turn it while you work the belt into place. If you try to put the belt partially on and turn on the motor you'll damage your new belt. Make sure it's centered on the motor pulley before powering it up.

Is it an upright? On mine it's very simple.
Unplug vacuum and lay it on floor so that you are looking at the rotating brush. Remove screws that attach the cowling. Remove the cowling. You will then see the rotating brush ends. One end will have the belt, or what's left of on the brush wheel. You will also see the motor shaft. The belt goes between the shaft and the brush wheel. Carefully remove the brush by holding both ends and pulling straight out. Place the new belt on the brush wheel and replace the brush. With the belt on the brush wheel, stretch it to fit on the motor shaft. Rotate the brush to make sure the belt is riding correctly at both ends. Replace cowling and screws.

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The KIA Optima uses a 12 volt charging system with an alternating generator and a frame-grounded starting battery. The alternator is a smaller unit with an internal voltage regulator. The bushings, windings and regulator may wear out and fail, requiring replacement. The average backyard mechanic can change the alternator in a KIA in about an hour.
Things You'll Need
1.Socket set
2.Floor jack
3.Lug wrench
4.Screwdrivers
5.Crowbar
Instructions:
1.Disconnect the battery's positive terminal bolt by turning it counterclockwise. Set it away from the terminal.
2.Jack up the Optima and remove the front passenger side wheel by turning the lug nuts counterclockwise using the lug wrench. Set the wheel and tire aside.
3.Remove or fold aside the wheel well cover by turning the small screws counterclockwise and gently pulling it from the retainer clips. This will give access to the engine.
4.Push on the belt tension pulley until the belt loosens, then pull the belt off of the alternator's pulley wheel. The belt can be left hanging in place.
5.Turn the alternator's bolts in a counterclockwise direction using the socket wrench. A smaller wrench head may be required for the tight space.
6.Pull the alternator free by wiggling it out of the mount.
7.Position the new alternator into the mount and secure the bolts that hold it in place.
8.Push on the belt tension pulley to give enough slack to wrap the belt around the alternator's pulley wheel.
9.Restore the wheel well cover by pushing it onto the clips and securing the screws.
10.Replace the wheel by tightening the lug nuts in a clockwise direction, alternating the pressure of opposing bolts. This sets the wheel better than tightening all of the nuts in a circle.
11.Lower the Optima onto the ground, and reconnect the battery.

You do not need any special instructions- look at the flywheels when they are running- they are hooked to the capstan shafts. The capstan shaft have to go in opposite directions for auto reverse so just threat the belt to that this happens- the unit should then work.
You can get a Service manual from Hi Fi Engine maybe

Replacing the final drive belt is a major job. You'll have to drain and pull the entire primary including the inner primary cover, the entire primary drive, and starter. You'll also have to remove the rear wheel and the swing arm to replace the belt. There are some special tools that you will need especially if you have to pull the front belt pulley to check it for wear or to replace any seals that may be leaking. If you plan on doing this job yourself, I'd highly recommend the purchase of a service manual. It's not a small job.

Good Luck
Steve

Inside parts:
Small belt wheel (SBW)
Large belt wheel (LBW)
Motor Assembly (MA)
Fan Blades (FB)
Fan Blade Cover (FBC)
Make sure you have magnetic screwdrivers.
Remove MA - 4 screws.
Remove FBC - three screws
Loosen LBW and slide down shaft a small bit away from end. Need small Allen wrench.
Slip new belt around LBW (takes some fiddling).
Put LBW back to previous local and tighten.
Reattach FBC.
Put motor in place.
Stretch belt over FB and onto SBW. (It will make it.)
Screw in motor.
Good luck.