Question about Bosch 23 in. SHU303 Built-in Dishwasher

3 Answers

I have read about problems with the cycle not advancing or getting stuck on an SHU303 Bosh dishwasher. I have this problem intermittently. Usually when the dial is at the 6pm position, and lately during the rinse portion, when the dial is at about 11pm. Checked the water temp in the unit a moment ago, running on regular temp cycle, and it is 120 degrees (timer at 6pm). Sometimes the cycle will run normally; other times we must hand advance the timer to make the cycle complete. That it now stops (sometimes) twice during the cycle is a new development.

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  • 6 more comments 
  • brienkoehler May 20, 2011

    You do not think that it is the thermostat (as in some similar postings)? What is it that I described that makes you think it is the timer? Thank you.

  • brienkoehler May 20, 2011

    Thank you. How do I replace the timer?

  • brienkoehler May 20, 2011

    Nothing personal, but the instructions you sent are generic, and the pictures aren't anything like the inside of my Bosch. I'm switching to someone else for another opinion. Thanks anyway.

  • brienkoehler May 20, 2011

    Please see my original problem: intermittent stalling of dishwasher, now (recently) sometimes twice during the cycle. There are answers that say "timer" while others say "thermostat". First expert said timer, but couldn't provide specific information about replacement of the Bosch timer. Generic help pictures are not useful.

    I've ordered a timer to replace myself; if it doesn't work I can return it. It may turn into repair by process of elimination. If a new timer stalls in the same place, I'll know "it is not the timer".

  • brienkoehler May 20, 2011

    Thank you for your good advice. I am not clear about getting the test cycle results. There are no display panels on the door. Where will the results be found? Thank you.

  • brienkoehler May 21, 2011

    Your lack of specific information about my model makes your comments interesting but not helpful really. There are no lights above the buttons my unit. I've asked for a refund because nothing that has been said is directly beneficial to my situation. Everything that I can use was already available free.

    Please don't respond any further. I'm finished with this.

    Oh, and, I did check on the refund policy before I ordered the part that I may or may not need, depending upon which of you experts I listen to.

  • brienkoehler May 21, 2011

    I appreciate your reasonable and careful reply. I've already made arrangements for the unit to be serviced; the frustration with fixya has been eased by your interest but it is too late. Maybe another time.

    You are correct in your surprise that the exact model was never asked of me; when I wrote that I have no lights on my panel (other than one of the power switch) it would have seemed natural for the previous experts to have inquired exactly about the machine. I could have given the information; in fact I thought I had copied the whole model number when I started this matter. It is, for the record, a SHU3036

    But, my experience for 24 hours now with rude and indifferent and conflicting responses (including the "bury 'em in BS" approach of posting paragraphs and pictures shotgun style) has brought this sad matter to an end.

    You are the only bright spot in this whole matter. Sorry you didn't answer first!

    Brien

  • brienkoehler May 21, 2011

    I will let you know what it turns out to be. I found a post at fixya from someone with the exact same probem; but it was posted for free solutions from readers. No one replied. It was dated last year, as I recall. The poster had the same problem I did/do: timer stopping at 6pm and 10pm positions.

    Thank you again. You've done a good job. BK

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3 Answers

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  • Bosch Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hello Brien, First let me start by apologizing for the difficulty you've had here at FixYa. It is unfortunate the assistance (or lack of) was not helpful or specific to your inquiry, but I'd like to attempt to make amends. I am quite familiar with your model and in fact have serviced Bosch for around 15yrs. When you receive the timer (It is very rare to need one in a Bosch, more likely stat on the inside door panel) I'd be more than willing to guide you through the process and I will even send you a complimentary service manual if you provide an email address. I will understand if you have closed the door on any further input from "experts" here at FixYa but will do what I can to help if you're open. Sorry once again and good luck going forward. Regards, Macmarkus :)

Posted on May 21, 2011

  • 1 more comment 
  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 21, 2011

    Hello again Brien,

    I will also add should you choose the offer of further assistance, please provide the entire model AND serial number.

    I'm shocked that hasn't been requested yet since with Bosch they are crucial from a (proper) servicing stand point.

    The entire model and serial should be located here and similar to this example...model #SHU3032UC-06. serial # FD 7908-8002


    The serial number specifically tells what week and year the unit was built and more importantly if there where any revisions made to that specific unit following it's build date.

    Just to add before closing the thermostat I spoke of is inside the door panel mounted next to the combi-dispenser and can be checked with a multi-meter for continuity.

    (though sometimes they simply become dislodged or the space between the 'stat and the door surface is too great hence, not sensing the temp correctly/accurately)

    It will look like this...


    I'll look forward to your reply should you choose to. Thanks for taking the time to read my post either way. Good luck.

    Regards,

    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 21, 2011

    Hi Brien,

    I suspected that may have been the case after reading over alot of the "BS" ( I agree, alot of it seemed that way to me as well and in fact these "experts" did not seem competent with Bosch at all...in my humble opinion) that had been posted.

    My offer will be here if you decide to take me up on it and I'll help in any manner I can now or in the future. I do hope to make amends on behalf of FixYa as it can be ( an in fact intended to be) a very helpful site for those who like to "do it themselves" or decide if they can.

    Good luck once again going forward. I would be curious to find out what the problem turns up to be, but I understand if it's a matter you are "done with here" for sure or as you stated..."my experience for 24 hours now with rude and indifferent and conflicting responses"

    Regards,

    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald May 21, 2011

    Thank you Brien for being kind and tolerant under the circumstances. I hope you find the resolution in whatever avenue you decide.

    I have actually posted many solutions to this issue and it is hanging up at the 6 and 10 o'clock position because this is the part of the cycle that must be satisfied by water temperature reaching 161F, this being the reason the 'stat in the door is suspect most times, in my experience.

    There is also a "flow switch" on the heater (#3 in pic)which can be problematic (sticking "open" thus not allowing the heater to come) as well as a "two in one" thermostat on top of the instantaneous water heater. It is a cycling 'stat for water of 141F as well as a safety hi-limit cut out (@185F) aka NTC...negative temp. coefficient. # 5 in pic.

    These are both accessible via the right hands side of the unit (facing front) as illustrated here...


    My intentions are not to bog you down with possible scenarios but to provide you with all possibilities so you can investigate for yourself. Most people just need the guidance, the checking is the easy part.

    Good luck Brien.

    Regards,

    Macmarkus :)

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  • Bosch Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi.

You do not replace the timer without testing! The timer is expensive and it is replaced only after testing the rest and after running a diagnostic cycle. DO NOT REPLACE THE PART,

If the machine hangs mid cycle and the water is hot you can indeed have a defective thermostat or element . Other causes can be drain problem and problems with drain system. If by advancing the cycle manually you can complete the cycle, then the control board is probably OK.

The first test you perform is a Test Program. This will allow you to go through the different parts of the cycle. With test program you advance manually the timer checking in which part cycle hangs.

To enter test programs, hold down 2nd & 4th buttons from left (I think Power Scrub Plus + Rinse & Hold on this model, not sure about the second one). After that you turn dishwasher on by pushing on/off button. Push again the two buttons mentioned above a 2nd time to start test program. Allow the program to finish to see fault codes. Turn dishwasher off to exit test program.

If the dishwasher hangs on one part of the test (e.g heating or drain), then you can skip such part by pressing once again the two buttons mentioned above. In the heating part of the cycle you need to take in account that a Bosh home dishwasher heats up at a certain speed. The thermostat will open at 150F (if good), incoming water from line is at about 120F, so heating part of the cycle in the test program may take over 20 minutes.

Parts of the cycle are as follow:

Draining: 30 Secs
Aqua sensor calibration (if present on this model): 60 secs
Filling: may vary depending on pressure.
Heating and circulating: Until 150F are reached. If there is hot water from line, about 20 mins.
Drain.

After that you get error codes.

On older Bosch with 2/3 digits display
0 - No faults
# 1 - Aqua Sensor (Sensotronic) fault
# 2 - Heating system fault (heater, Hi-Limit, flow switch, NTC, control heater relay)
# 4 - Water filling fault
# 8 - NTC (temperature sensor) fault
# 16 - Water switch fault
#F - Water filling fault (underfill, overfill or water in the base)
#2H - Last wash cycle too long (> 99 minutes). Can be cold inlet water or system fault (heater, Hi-Limit, flow switch, NTC, control module heater relay).
#_h - Delay Start feature (not a fault code)

On your dishwasher code should be like following:

# S3 - No faults
# A - Aqua Sensor (red) fault
# B - Aqua Sensor (green) fault
# E - Water switch fault (no pulses detected)
# F - Water filling fault
# G - Water switch fault (won't stop running)
# H - Heating system fault (heater, Hi-Limit, flow switch, NTC,
control module heater relay)
# K - NTC fault (short-circuited or open-circuited)
# xx - Test program step count (testing done when = 00)
(Top line shows wash cycle & bottom line shows fault code.)

Other models show a led code or a numeric code. If code is different, just let me know.

If there are codes, test the part involved.

If there is a heater related code, or if there is no code and machine hangs at six o clock, the following must be tested:

Heater must be about 11Ohms - If it is open replace it.
Thermostat (NTC) Must be 55 KOhms at 72F, If it is open or shorted (low impedance) replace it.
High limit: this must be zero or very low impedance
The thermostat is located on top of the heater assembly, usually reachable at the bottom of the appliance behind the front kick plate. Most new Bosch have NTC (thermostat) and Hi Limit in a same single part. The part looks like following:

I have read about problems - ginko_81.jpg

If there are no codes, and element and thermostat test good then the timer board must be tested before replacement. Here a diagram that should comprise your model. Testing is done reading Ohms with power off.

ginko_80.jpg

After you have don all this testing, if you do not find anything else, you decide to replace control module. That is the reason why you ask support to a technician rather than replacing parts randomly.

Regards.

Ginko

Posted on May 20, 2011

  • Ginko
    Ginko May 20, 2011

    Hi.

    I saw your comment on part refund. I wanted to tell you that most parts sellers will not refund parts if they have been installed. Better to double check.

    About error codes and diagnostic program procedure, that is different depending on the model (diagnostic procedure is not listed in service manuals do not have owners manual for this model). Diagnostic for some Bosch model does not follow the two button procedure.

    Several models with knobs use the following:



    1. To enter test programs:

    2. rotate knob to 6:00 position (pointing straight down).

    3. Hold down Start/Stop button

    4. turn dishwasher on by pushing on/off button.

    5. Push Start/Stop button to start test program.

    6. When test program has finished, Clean light light will flash and all other lights will be lit.

    If there is no LCD the error code is shown by blinking LED combination like from the tables below:

    type 1:



    type 2:

    uses the three led below:





    More than reading the error codes (if it stalls there may be none because thermostat is shorted rather than open) it will help reading impedance at components.

    Here how to access heater assembly located inside the base:



    See impedance values published in previous comment. Here thermostat on the heater. (heater 11Ohms, High limit 0.3 Ohms, thermo 55 Ohms, and flow switch 0.5 Ohms).




    If thermostat and heater (including thermal limit) have good reading, test also the flow switch.

    On control board you can also check the connector to thermistor (test solder joint for continuity) see below contact 5b in module connector:



    If problem is the control module, and problem is cycle lagging because there is no heating, you can also diagnose the board by checking solder joints. Even if the relay could be repaired by soldering. or replacing relay with generic component. Manufacturers recommend to replace the whole board:



    This should be enough to allow you to fix the appliance without guessing and replacing random parts.

    Regards.

    Ginko

  • Ginko
    Ginko May 21, 2011

    I did not "luck of specific information"

    I spent about three hours explaining, understanding and answering to your problem.

    I copied all relevant information from the technical service manual. The diagnostic is not in service manual but in the tech sheet. I have posted all the tech sheets for ALL the bosch models.

    You have had you money back and you have had my time and effort for free, but this is not fair.

    Goodbye and goodluck with your appliance. Enjoy my free time and feel good.

    Ginko

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  • Master
  • 4,323 Answers

Hi

The issue is with the timer that is bad and should be replaced as everything else seems to be working. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Posted on May 20, 2011

  • 1 more comment 
  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott May 20, 2011

    It drains fine the water heats fine however, it keeps on stopping after sometime and when you advance the timer manually it will start working again so all this makes me believe it is the timer that should be replaced.

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott May 20, 2011

    Please check these steps to replace the timer

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott May 20, 2011

    At least wait before simply rejecting the solution....anyways please check these replacement instructions to solve the issue:


    1.Remove fascia panel by removing T-20 Torx inner door screws.

    2.Disconnect wire harnesses from module after noting connector locations.

    3.Pry out metal console tabs holding module to console.

    4.Carefully pry back plastic tabs, then slide module from console.


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