B&s 126t02 0675 b2 08072558 the choke lever

Procedure #1-

1. Be sure the hook on the bimetallic spring contacts the choke shaft lever.
2. Install the cover and retainer and lightly tighten the screws.
3. Turn the ceramic element to align the mark on it with the middle mark on the housing.

~~~ Procedure #2-

1. The engine must be cold to make this adjustment.
2. Remove the air cleaner.
3. Find the automatic choke. It's the round thing on the upper right-hand of the carburetor. There is a wire coming to it from the positive side of the coil.
Note: The automatic choke is a round ceramic thing with the heating element wound inside of it. (The ceramic part may be covered with metal so that it looks just like the rest of the carburetor.) The choke is held in position by a triangular ring clamp and three screws so it can be loosened and rotated for adjustment.

4. Pull the throttle arm on the left side of the carburetor down to free the little step arm (cam) that the screw at the top of the throttle lever rests on.
Note: This stepped "cam" is connected to the butterfly valve inside the throat of the carburetor by a shaft that extends all the way into the automatic choke. With the engine cold, the butterfly valve should be closed. As the engine warms up, the coil inside the automatic choke uncoils, opens the butterfly valve, and moves the cam to reduce the idle speed.

5. Release the throttle arm so that the return spring snaps it back. The little screw at the top of the throttle arm (again, with the engine cold) should now rest on the top step of the stepped cam. This sets the hi-idle, which is needed together with the choke on a cold engine to provide sufficient idle speed to keep the engine running until it warms up fully.
6. Loosen the three screws on the right side that hold the choke in place.
7. Keep your eye on the butterfly valve in the carburetor throat.
8. Turn the choke element clockwise (viewed from the right) until the butterfly is standing straight up, then turn the choke counterclockwise (viewed from the right) until the choke butterfly fully closes (barely -- not too tightly), then tighten the three screws that hold the choke in place.
Note: This is important; the automatic choke may be assembled wrong and not catching the hook on the coil spring at all.

9. Start the engine with the air cleaner off. As the engine warms up, make sure that the butterfly opens until it is standing straight up (full open) when the engine is fully warm. If it doesn't, readjust the choke until you get it right.
Note: The engine is now warm, so you won't be able to adjust the choke per the foregoing. Note the position of the notch on the side of the choke relative to the three little ridges on the body of the carburetor. If the butterfly is too far closed with the engine warm, turn the choke clockwise just a bit to straighten it up. The notch on the choke should never be too far outside of the three ridges on the body of the carburetor. If you are not able to adjust the choke using these method, something may be sticking, or perhaps the coil spring inside the canister is broken, or perhaps the wire has fallen off of the contact on the canister so that it is not getting power from the battery properly.

There is a diaphram that the link connects to the choke. It is between the carb and the gas tank, and runs by the vacuum from the engine. B&S engines have to rev up for the choke to open all the way.

Would you consider retrofitting a manual choke? Then you wouldn't have to rely on "automatic" stuff any more. Manual chokes are cheap & simple & reliable.

check to see if the return springs are still attached to the stationary post and the choke lever.

you move it in very small moves and be sure to mark the starting place

you can check for vacuum leaks use a short piece of hose like a stethoscope = no . try setting the choke.black and yellow part. loosen the screws and twist it counter clockwise, this should take it out of the high idle mode. the heater in the choke might be bad, ohm it and test for power

There is probably no choke, it is an automatic choke built into the start/stop lever. If it wont start
there is a need for a repair.

There is no choke lever, the Blast has an automatic choke.

Mine did same thing, need to manually adjust choke. If you raise hood and adjust your throttle you will see that when you press up to choke that it actually hits & pushed in choke. But when you back off if it is like mine the choke doesn't come off, so I manually pulled choke to off & mine started right up. I am still trying to find how or where cable came off for the choke to be adjusted by throttle lever. That is why I was on here looking for photo of engine.

On the R.H side of the carb behind the automatic choke down on the rear throttle shaft there is a pin running thru the shaft with a lever that will lock it out. If the choke is not fully open or the weight behind the auto choke is not dropping the lever will not relase the secondaries to open.