Question about Cobra 148 GTL 120-Channels Base CB Radio

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Power input problem. Keeps blowing fuses, checked cord and it is good, have continuity across positive and return pins of the receptacle...pulled the covers and did not see anything that was obviously blown. thanks

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There should a small diode located near the power input line, "black in color with band on the one end" chances are it is shorted, blowing the fuse. This is a protection diode preventing a positive/negative mix up, if this turns out to be the problem check to make sure the audio is working, if not! you must replace the ic chip.

Posted on May 20, 2011

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Protection diode on 148 gtl is D55

Posted on Oct 26, 2012

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The fuse inside the head keeps blowing when i turn power on, and Im getting continuity between the white & black from the transformer


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Looks like the main power IC is shorted!
Check the main power amp IC and replace it if there is a short between their pins!

Hope that helps you out!

Jun 23, 2011 | Marshall MG100HDFX 100-Watt Amplifier Head

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Dryer has 110V only.Light burns when door is opened.Controle panel does not switch on at all.Each leg where power cord is attached has 110V.I have replaced Thermal Cut-off & High Limit...


Hi,
Your problem is not in the dryer. 220V circuits can be confusing in that the 110 leg can feed back and in reality you are getting the same 110V reading on both legs. Check across the two legs and see if you get 220V if not then you have confirmed what I suspect. Your problem is probably with you circuit breaker in the electric panel. Try switching the breaker off and forcefully turning it back on, You also can take off the panel cover and check to see if you have 220V across the two poles of the circuit breaker. You may have to replace the circuit breaker, it is not uncommon for one leg of a breaker ot go out especially when used on a dryer that pulls high amp. resistance loads.

Heatman101

Dec 26, 2009 | Whirlpool GEW9868K Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Clock works but no bake no broil no top elements - is there an internal fuse?


It sounds like you may be missing part of the input voltage at the wall receptacle. You should be reading 220-240VAC across the two hot terminals (left and right slots). Or, you may have a possible bad power cord. With the unit unplugged, check the continuity of the power cord from end to end to make sure the wires are not broken.

The clock assembly functions off of a 110-120VAC source which is tapped off the input voltage. The elements all use 220. If one of the input legs is missing, the clock will still function, but none of the elements will work. Please check and get back to me if this isn't the problem. I hope this helps you.

Please confirm if the model number is correct as well.

Nov 22, 2009 | GE JSP69 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Dryer won't start when i push the button,checked breaker,removed back,i believe there is power to switch.what di i need to check for?


If your model number is correct, all the heating circuits on your dryer are easily accessible from the back of the dryer. All you have to do is unplug the dyer and remove the back panel. Look for the Thermal Fuse. This will be a small plastic looking component with two wires attached to it. Its mounted on the blower fan housing on the left hand side of the dryer (as facing from the rear). Unplug the wires from the Thermal Fuse and take a resistance reading across the terminals. If good, it will read 0 ohms. If bad, you must replace it.

This component will blow in an overheat/over-current condition and must be replaced. Usually when this component fails, it fails for a reason. Check your blower fan housing for any clogs or obstructions that may be causing the dryer to run hot.

For clarification, refer to appliancepartspros.com for exploded view daigrams of your dryer. Just type in your model number and look under Section 3 for item 19 (part number AP3132867).

Something else to consider:

1. Does the dryer have multiple breakers? An electric dryer runs on 220VAC. Some home use two 110VAC breakers instead of one 220 breaker. Double check your power distribution and make sure you have the breaker(s) set properly.

2. Have you checked the voltage at the wall receptacle? Unplug the dryer and take a voltage reading across the two hot (left and right slots) terminals. If good, you should read 220-240VAC.

3. Have you verified the power cord is good? You can check the power cord by leaving the dryer unplugged and remove the back panel where the power cord is installed on the back of the dryer. This is called the terminal block. You can either perform continuity checks between the prongs on the cord to the terminals at the terminal block, or you can plug the cord back in and take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK wires at the terminal block.

If good, you should read the same 220-240VAC that you read at the wall receptacle.

If continuity is good you will read 0 ohms resistance from the end of the power cord to the terminal block.

4. Have you verified the door switch? When you open the door is the drum light on? With the dryer plugged in, you should be able to open the dryer door and see the light on insode the drum. Toggling the door switch with your finger, this light should go out if the switch is making contact. If the switch is defective, the dryer will not run.

I hope I've given you enough items to consider. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jul 30, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Drying Machine Problem


Hi..

If your dryer is not drying,

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating elementOften a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.


Regards
PCmania



Jul 16, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Roper REL4636BW dryer. It will not start. The timer runs and the on off switch tests ok, and the door switch works also


The first step in troubleshooting would be to unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block. This is where the dryer power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and then take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires on the AC Voltage scale. You should read about 220-240VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, unplug the dryer again and check the wall receptacle across the LEFT and RIGHT slots. If good at the receptacle, but bad at the terminal block, you have a bad power cord. If bad in both places, you have an electrical problem with the receptacle of distribution source.

Now...barring a defective drive motor, improper source voltage at the wall receptacle, or defective power cord, the most common cause of a dryer that will not run is a blown Thermal Fuse.

The Thermal Fuse is located on the air blower fan housing in the back of the dryer. It is a small white plastic component with two wires attached to it. To access, simply remove the back panel of the dryer. The Thermal Fuse will be located on the blower fan housing on the lower left hand side of the dryer. Make sure the dryer is unplugged and disconnect the wires before making any resistance checks. The fuse should read about zero ohms if good. If bad, replace it. You can purchase replacements on line at searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, or repairclinic.com. Just use your model number for your search criteria. The Thermal Fuse is listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as item number 8.

NOTE: If the Thermal Fuse is blown, it usually blows for a reason. Verify all your ventilation ducting and blower fan assembly is clear of any clogs. Failure to do so, will result in repeated failures of any components you may replace.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jun 29, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Wont start till I pull on the cord to make connection.checked cord with volt meter,its o.k.help. stampvs@yahoo.com


If you have unplugged the unit and performed a continuity (resistance) check from the end of the power cord to where it connects to the terminal block at the back of the appliance, then the next logical step is to perform a voltage check of the wall receptacle itself. If the voltage at the receptacle is good, but you are having connectivity issues with the appliance plugged in, the receptacle terminals may have become loose, or you may have a power cord that has a loose or broken wire. This intermittent connectivity can cause the receptacle and/or power cord to heat up and cause a fire. With the appliance unplugged, connect an ohmmeter to either end of the power cord and perform a continuity check. Move the power cord to see if the readings are constant. If you have intermittent resistance readings, you have a bad power cord. If the power cord still checks good, then I would recommend having an electrician check your wall receptacle before using the appliance again. If you still have questions, let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jun 19, 2009 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer

1 Answer

GE dryer barely heating


If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, you're supposed to read 120VAC at both L1 and L2. With the cord UNPLUGGED, check the voltage across L1 and l2 at the wall receptacle. You should read a cumulative of 220-240VAC. If you're only getting 120VAC, the problem is at your receptacle, which would explain why the dryer is not heating. The heating circuits and timer require 220VAC, while the drive motor only requires 120VAC. If the power at the receptacle is good, leave the dryer unplugged and check the continuity of the power cord from the end of the plug at L2 to the terminal block at the back of the dryer. You should read a short or 0 ohms. If the continuity of the plug is good, the problem may be a loose connection at the terminal block or a broken wire. If the continuity is bad (open), then it looks like you may have a bad power cord. Please post back if you have questions. I hope this helps you.

Jan 03, 2009 | GE DVLR223 Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore Range


Okay...if the clock assembly appears to be working and the oven light comes on, but nothing else is working, I would double check your input power at the receptacle. You will need to unplug the range and check voltages at L1 to neutral and L2 to neutral. There should be 120VAC on each leg. It sounds like you are missing 120VAC on one side of the receptacle. I believe the clock and oven light will still come on, because they only utilize a portion of the input voltage. The elements, however, require 220VAC. Another way of checking for input voltage is to pull the range out so you can access behind it. Unplug the range and remove the back cover so you can see the terminal board where the power cord is connected. There should be three wires from left to right (BLACK, WHITE, RED). BLACK is L1, RED is L2. There will be 120VAC on each one of these lines when you plug the power back into the receptacle. If you place a meter from L1(BLACK) to NEUTRAL (WHITE), you should have 120VAC. The same is true when you place a meter across L2 (RED) and NEUTRAL (WHITE). If you connect the meter across L1 (BLACK) to L2 (RED) you should have your full 220VAC. If either leg (L1 or L2) is missing, the range elements will not work. If you check in this manner, you not only will be able to confirm whether or not you have proper input power, but you will also be determining whether or not the power cord is good. This may be a simple matter of a loose terminal in the back of the range, or...I have seen where consumers have wired them incorrectly. Check for the following in this order:

1. Double check you breaker to make sure it is not tripped (I know you said you already checked it).

2. Unplug range and check for proper voltage at the receptacle.

3. Remove back cover of range and verify correct wiring of the power cord.

4. With range unplugged, ensure all terminal lugs are properly tightened.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to tighten the terminal lugs with the power cord plugged in. Also, do not attempt to service the receptacle (repair or replace) with the power turned on at the breaker. Votages dangerous to life exists. I hope this information is helpful to you. If you have any questions or concerns, please post back with your comments.

Jan 31, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Internal fuse


HI
Check that you use another power outlet,see that the power cord pins are clean,and not burnt or use a new cord,the connection at the projector makes a GOOD connection with the new cord.
You will need a multimeter to check if there is voltage at the inside of the projector cord connection.You will have to remove the internal fuse before you check the the voltage inside.If all looks good then you will have a fault on the circuit board-shorted component on power supply side or further in on the circuit(need an electronic tech for this).Hope this helps--Jay
SAFTEY FIRST ALL TIMES--NOT SURE DO NOT DO IT

Oct 16, 2007 | Hitachi Performa CP-RS55 Multimedia...

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