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Ramset DD525. I wish to reassemble the tool and am having difficulty seating the end housing with the hammer mechanism onto the middle housing containing the motor.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: The seat belt for the centre middle row seat will

try moving the car to a different position that sometimes frees them if the car is on a slope or at an angle they can jam

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

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  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: craftsman 1/2' impact gun

Use a good grease. Don't pack it, just lube the parts. If it is all together, put in about half an ounce of air tool oil through the plug.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

corvettebob7
  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Need a manual for Ramset

take flat head screw driver put flat head driver in to gears on chuck hit screw driver with hammer counter clock wise

Posted on Nov 10, 2010

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Ramset - Powder Actuated Tools - YouTube

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Dec 19, 2015 | Air Tools & Compressors

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Can this drill be used as a hammer only for chipping?


if it is an elcheapo drill then it cannot be used for hammering only
it can only be used as a drill or a hammer drill
what you need is an expensive hammer drill ( Ramset or HILTI for masonry work that can accommodate a chisel tool and be used for chipping
however if you want to just chip there are cheap air driven chisels , that will do the job
find a good tool shop and there will be a range of tools that will do what you want

Sep 13, 2015 | Hammer Drills

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Cast shell holder j20 ramset gun


You can try Eamset direct, but the tool is out of production for some time.
http://www.ramset.com/

Dec 15, 2012 | Tools & Hardware - Others

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My PHT150 SharpShooter is jammed and won't spring back. The staple plunger is sticking out and won't retract.


Sometimes a bit of the staple material will be sheared off and jam the hammer in its guide, keeping the tool compressed. On the business end of a PHT150 there is a notch in the hammer housing and a slot on the staple carrier. Most times a standard screwdriver can be used by sticking the tip straight into the slot and using the notch to leverage the the two apart. If not, you can clamp the hammer housing in a vise and, using the screwdriver in the carrier slot, tap away from the hammer housing to release the jamb.

May 31, 2011 | Stanley Tools Hammer Staple/Tacker -...

1 Answer

Dripping faucet


first step would be to change the rubber washer or o ring.
  1. buy a proprietary washer kit from any DIY store.
  2. Turn water off at isolating valve on teh pipe underneath the sink / bath or at the mains and or hot water tank as appropriate
  3. Remove the top of the faucet (often there is a plastic circle at the top that prises off to reveal a screw - mixer taps may have a grub screw on the side)
  4. Gently using a wrench to loosen the nut unscrew and remove the tap (faucet) barrell (middle bit)
  5. Remove nut that holds washer in place and remove it or, in the case of an O ring - prise it off with a pin or needle.
  6. Reassemble in reverse order - do not over-tighten.
If that doesn't stop the drip then the seat that the rubber washer / O ring seals against may be pitted or grooved. Either buy or hire a 'tap (faucet) seating tool.
  1. Turn off water before opening the faucet
  2. dismantle faucet as above
  3. Find which of the sleeve adapters that comes with the seating tool is teh right one to screw into the top of the faucet body
  4. select the grinding disc that is closest to the size of the seat and screw it onto the end of the seating tool
  5. Screw the tool into place in the top of the faucet body - just finger tight.
  6. Pressing down firmly with even pressure (but not too hard) on the top of the seating tool rotate the handle backwards and three or four complete rotations.
  7. reassemble the faucet but DO NOT close the faucet off
  8. slowly turn the water back on and allow it to flow hard for a few seconds to flush and debris out of the spout
  9. Slowly close the faucet and check for leaks.
  10. If necessary repeat re-seating process

Feb 27, 2011 | Home

1 Answer

Rear axle berrings


Tools needed- typical socket and ratchet set, Axle slide hammer, Wiz Wheel type rotary cut off tool, chisel, ball pein hammer, hydraulic press, bech vice
First you must remove the rear wheels, then you must remove the brake capiler and mounting bracket, remove the brake rotor. unbolt 4 nuts on back side of brake dust shield that hold the seal and bearing securly in place. then you must attatch the slide hammer to the axle shaft by using the vehicles lug studs and lug nuts. use the slide hammer to knock the axle shaft out of the housing. it generally takes about 10-15 hard slams before it comes loose. once axle shaft is free to come out remove the slide hammer and pull the shaft from the axle tube. place the axle shaft into a vise and use the cut off wheel to cut off the bearing spacer. cut parralell to shaft until you hear a snap sound once it snaps use the hammer to slide the spacer off the end of the shaft. next you need to cut the bearing off the shaft using a the same technique being careful not the cut the shaft or the seal retainer plate. once the bearing is off then you can slide off the old axle seal. now slide on a new axle seal, axle bearing, and bearing spacer. take assembly to a hydraulic press and press the spacer and bearing onto the shaft until it seats squarely and make sure its all the way down onto the axle shaft. lubricate bearing with gear oil. and install shaft back into axle tube making sure that the recess in the seal retainer plate lines up with the abs sensor wire. tighten all nuts evenly top off gear oil

Dec 27, 2008 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Tirods


Hi havenable,

First thing to do, Chock the wheels and apply the parking brake....Loosen the wheel nuts ,jack up the front wheels and remove the wheels....Which ever side you start from, turn the steering so that the joint so that it becomes more visible....check to see if it has split pins or self locking nuts....if split pins, remove them then carry on ahead and remove the nuts....
....The shaft of the tie rod end is tapered, (a cone shape )....and it's fitted into a tapered hole where it fits into the hub.... It is possible to purchase a special wedge shaped tool to put between the tie rod end and the housing....If you have that or a ball joint puller use either one of those....with the wedge hammer it home with a large hammer....the ball joint remover, fit it to the joint, and screw the center bolt home to meet the top of the joint (where the threaded part comes thru the housing.....If you don't have these tools, the old fashioned way is to use the hammer against the side of the housing, where the tapper is fitted into it....strike it hard and three or four blows should allow it to fall out....Tighten the new joint onto the tie rod, to make the rod about the same length as it was when you removed it from the rod....Tighten the locking nut against the shoulder of the new part and then fit the tapper into the housing and tighten that too...chek all the bolts and nuts once again and reassemble the vehicle....Your fist trip will then be to an alignment center, to have to 'toe in' adjustment carried out....Job done....

Best regards Johngee10

Sep 01, 2008 | 1999 Mitsubishi Mirage

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