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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
How to explain this? your new drop in unit will require a 220v circuit capable of a specified amount of amps. Typically 40, 50 or 60. Should be noted in the manual and on the unit itself. If your original oven and cooktop were electric, then each one was probably hooked up to a 220v circuit. The problem is figuring out how many amps were supplied for each. The simplest way is the go to the panel and find the breaker for the old oven and cooktop and read the numbers (or amps) on the on/off switch. If either breaker has a number the same or greater then the drop in unit says it requires, then your all set. If the drop in unit says it requires 52amps and one of the breakers says 60 on it, your fine. If the drop in unit says it requires 44amps and the breakers are 30 or 40, then you got a problem. Usually a breaker is installed that is the maximum amps allowed for the size (thickness) of the wire connected to it. You CANNOT connected a 50a breaker to wire only rated for 40a. Note the size difference of wire connected to a 20a breaker with wire connected to 40a breaker. If the drop in unit requires more amps then the original units used, then a larger wire will need to be ran from the panel to the drop in unit (Not cheap). Now if the original oven used a 30a and the original cooktop used a 30a, then its possible ( 80% of electricians wouldn't do it because of liability problems) to use both wires together to create 60amps, but both wires (actually a total of 6 wires, 2-120v wires and 1 ground wire from each outlet) would need to be in the same outlet box for the drop in unit connection.. I could (and probably should) try to explain more, but I'de probably just confuse you more. GOOD LUCK!
Posted on May 13, 2010
SOURCE: I am trying to replace
I bought some of these simmerstats to refurb an industrial machine and faced the same issues - which terminals do what?
The parts came with a confusing wiring diagram, the terminal numbers didn't match.
The good news is that you can easily get inside this unit to see how it works without damaging it.
Release the metal front plate by gently lifting the tangs with a screwdriver then undrneath is a plastic shield which isn't glued in or anything, it just pulls out.
Here's what I found:
The bi-metal heater is connected between 2 and 4.
The bi-metal switch is between P1 and 2.
There is an auxiliary switch between 4 and P2 (P2 is the same metal strip as PILOT).
The auxiliary switch is closed when the control is 'not off'.
I also noted the short metal stub near 'TOP', in line with 2.
It is in fact the same metal strip as 2 so should be treated with respect i.e. it has mains voltage on it.
For my application, I wired:
Live in to P1
Neutral in to 4
Load powered from 2, returning to Neutral
Pilot Light from P1 to P2 (observe that the pilot wiring is a bit scary because it has a switched neutral).
Posted on Feb 05, 2011
Hi, well i tell you these units are a pain to get into the area where the wiring hooks onto the module... also there were a few variants, so the timer modules were different, this means one would have to have a service manual of the exact make model to even be able to source the bits, in the first place. This is the BIG problem, obtaining the exact parts.
My recommendation is to save yourself skinned knuckles and time and money, and call an an electrician for that "Quote'.
Posted on Mar 23, 2011
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