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I'm trying to change my rear tire , i have put the chain in the smallest cog in the rear, loosened the quick release but the tire doesn't want to come out. Do you have to do something with the hayes hydralic brake system to release it, such as a release button or lever?

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If the quick release is truly loose, from the rear just lift the bike by the left side of the seatstay (or what would be a seatstay if itwasn't rear suspended) and rotate the rear derailleur backward with your right hand. It should just fall out.

Google "remove rear wheel bicycle" for lots of advice in video form.

Posted on May 20, 2011

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Brand new bike gears won't engage. The gear shift is on 6 and the chain is on the smallest cranks.

the derailleur cable is too loose. Shift the shifter into the smallest cog, make sure the chain is on the smallest cog. The derailleur cable will most likely be very slack now. At the rear derailleur, there will be a nut or a allen bolt pinching the cable to the derailleur. loosen this, pull the cable finger tight, tighten the nut or bolt again and then try shifting again. You can dial it in using the barrel adjuster on the derailleur or the shifter.

Oct 15, 2011 | Pacific International Pacific Evolution...

1 Answer

My rear tire is not turning when moving the pedals. The gears change but the tire is not spinning. I think it has to do with that plastic cover near the cogs, but not sure how its suppose to be.

Take the rear wheel off the ground (you could flip the bike upside-down to do this) and try to spin the pedals with your hand. Try spinning it backwards and forwards while you adjust the gears. ...If you adjust the gears while the chain is not spinning, the chain could get jammed. This could be your problem.
If that's not it, then try grabbing the wheel itself to see if you can spin it with your hand. If you cannot, then it might just be hitting the bicycle frame or the brake pads. See if you can find the spot where that is happening. If you can, then try to adjust the wheel in the frame by loosening the nuts or the quick-release lever (just push it away from the frame) that holds the wheel on to the bicycle frame... then wiggle the wheel around just a little to see if you can align it so that it is no longer hitting anything. Be sure to either tighten the nuts or push the quick-release lever back towards the frame when you are done. (Don't wiggle it too much unless you want the wheel to come out of the frame!)
If neither of these things work, you probably need to take it in to a bike shop. Most shops will give you a free estimate- they should tell you what is wrong, as well as how much it would cost to fix it.

Aug 12, 2011 | GMC Denali 700C Road Bike

1 Answer

When in the smallest cogs at the rear (the last two) and the smallest front ring the chain rubs against the bottom of the rear mech where the pulley wheels are. How do I adjust please. Campag...

Don't use that combination. Really. It is unnecessary as it duplicates a straighter chainline combination and it's also possible that your rear derailleur can't **** up all the slack chain when using small gears front and back.

Read this:

Jun 02, 2011 | Campagnolo Cycling

1 Answer

I'm new to multi gear bikes..whats the reason for the 6 gear positions on the right and 3 gear positions on the left hand side

Bicycles have two sets of gears (front and back). The 6 position control slides the chain between the 6 sprockets (cogs) on the back. The 3 gears are for the front set of cogs. Between the two sets of sprockets, you get 18 (theoretical) different rates of chain movement per turn of the pedals. In fact some of the settings overlap. (However some of these should not be used. Do not use the settings that pull the chain to the furthest inside of one derailleur and the furthest outside of the other. This diagonal between the biggest and biggest sprockets (or smallest to smallest) puts extra strain on the chain.) The back derailleur is in the lowest gear when on the biggest sprocker. The front low gear is on the smallest cog. The highest gear possible is on the smallest rear cog and the largest front cog.

By planning the shifts in gears, you can maintain the same speed and cadence (rate of pedalling) on different terrains. (For going up a hill, use a lower gear than on flat terrain. However don't go to low or the bike may not balance well.) To shift through a large range of gears, you must be pedalling and then move the rear derailleur control followed by the front derailleur then the back again. (For faster shifts to a low speed, you can shift the front derailleur first but that can stress the system.)

For a guide to using the gears: .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

May 14, 2011 | Huffy Cycling

1 Answer

Cannot get rear derailer to work properly 24 inch girls evolution

Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger
Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced.
Now check the cable to be sure it slides freely. Mud and grit within the cable housing, or on a cable-guide, can keep the derailleur from moving a "full gear" during downshifts. If the cable doesn't slide freely in the housing, you may be able to clean or lube it to restore smooth shifting.
Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.

Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.

Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)

Closeup of setting the limiting screw.

Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).

Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.

Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.

Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.

Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.

Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.

Mar 04, 2011 | Pacific International Pacific Evolution 24...

1 Answer

Hello could you please advise on how to get the back wheel sprocket off. thanks tony

Depends on whether it is a freewheel or free hub.

For a freehub, you need a chain spanner -- basically a long lever with chain on it to hold the large sprocket while you use a second one to unscrew the smallest cog. Once that is off, all the other cogs slide off.

For a freewheel (usually only on older bikes), if you look inside the smallest cog, you'll see some sort of a recess. On Suntour it would be 2 recesses to accept a 2-pinned removal tool. For Shimano, it is a splined remover that fits around the axle. Insert the freewheel removal tool, use the Quick release to hold it in place, and a large wrench to unscrew the freewheel. In this case the entire freewheel comes off in one piece. Once off, you can use the method for the freehub to remove the outer cog and each successive inner cog. Often it is easier to put the removal tool in a vice and turn the wheel rather than use a wrench.

Feb 28, 2011 | Cycling

2 Answers



This one's easy enough.. If you move the derailer through it's full stretch you will see that part of it will be blocked in each direction by a small screw. These screw adjusters are to stop the chain from running over the end gears, and sometimes if they're too tight they can stop the chain from reaching the gears in the first place.
A small screwdriver is all you should need, turn the bike upside down, loosen these screws completely and then change gear to one end first until it runs smoothly on the chain and then do the same with the other.
These are designed to be adjustable so you can add or remove gears/change wheel sizes etc and then readjust to run smoothly..

Hope this helps..

Oct 12, 2009 | Shimano XT M772 Shadow 9-Speed Rear...

3 Answers

Wont change gears 12or3

There should be one or two limiting screws for the front derailleur that you can use to adjust how far out/in the derailleur moves to shift the chain over. You can ask a friend to lift the back end of the bike off the ground while you do the adjusting of these screws and then try shifting the gear while moving the peddles with your other hand.

Aug 21, 2009 | Huffy Womens Mountain Bike - Passion...

1 Answer

I do not know how to correctly adjust the shifter cable-I have a 7 speed mountain bike-what are the procedures to make sure the tension is correct and properly shift to all gears. It is a trigger shifter....

Assuming that the limit screws are set correctly on the rear derailleur, which they probably are if you haven't fooled with it, and your cables are okay, here is what you do. If you don't have a bike workstand, then get someone to hold the bike up or hang it off the ground with a rope. Turn the cranks and shift to the highest gear (the smallest and outer rear cog). If the chain does not go out to it, then screw the barrel adjustment in the rear derailleur (where the cable goes into it) in until it goes to the outside cog. Beginning with the chain on the outside cog shift to the next lowest gear (keep turning the crank at all times) If the chain does not go to the next smallest cog, then turn the barrel adjustment out until it does. Now try shifting it through all the gears to the inside cog and tweak the adjustment with the barrel adjustment. Also, you might have to take out slack in the inner wire if it has "stretched" out, by loosening the cable bolt on the rear derailleur, pulling the cable tight, then retightening before any of this will work.

Aug 15, 2009 | Shimano Cycling

1 Answer

I need to know how to place the chain back on the gears

shift onto your smallest cog on the rear and shift to your biggest cog at the front then place part of the chain onto the small cog at the back and then do the same with the big cog at the front then simply pedal forwards and the chain should go back on by itself

Aug 03, 2009 | Huffy Cycling

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