Question about Fahrenheat FFH1615 Heater

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Can I use 12-2 wire instead of 12-3 to install the unit by marking the white conductor with electrical tape? (I assume the fan in the heater is not 120v.)

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Hi, I would not assume the fan is 220. See if there is a label on the fan. If it is 110, you will need the white wire for the 110 return. Aside from the needs of the heater, most 220 installations require 4-wires by local codes. I know the instructions for this unit are poor--I read them. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

Posted on May 19, 2011

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Yes you can, just remember what you did so that you can change it back.

Posted on May 19, 2011


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How would I connect 3 different wires to a plus to receive power one wire is from 3 outlets one is from a spotlight one is from a shed ?

Assuming Chuck, you are speaking of three separate circuits and you want to connect them into a power panel. If that is correct, I also assume you have along with the three hot conductors (wires), three neutral (white) wires. If these assumptions are correct, install three breaker into your panel and attach each circuit into these new breakers. A word of caution, Ensure the white conductors are connected to the neutral bar where all other white wires are connected. Saying all of this, I now suggest you either get an electrician to do the job or at least get someone with more knowledge than you have to help. Improperly installed electrical service is hazardous not only to the structure but it is DEADLY. Good luck.

Sep 27, 2014 | Connecticut Electric Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Wiring 12/2 or 12/3

12/2 cable (Romex, UF, etc) consists of two insulated #12 and one uninsulated #12 conductor or wire. The two insulated wires have a black and a white colored insulation. Number 12 copper is rated for 20 amps. This cable can carry a single circuit with ground.

12/3 cable is identical to 12/2 with the exception being that it has a third insulated conductor that is colored red. This third wire allows one cable to supply 2 circuits (one on black and one on red with both sharing the white and ground wires) with one cable run. It is much cheaper to buy and install a single 12/3 cable than two 12/2 cables to get two circuits into the same general area.

Twenty amp 120 volt circuits in dwelling units are required for kitchens, dining rooms, washers, disposals, and other appliances that require more than 12 amps (but less than 16 amps) to operate. Twenty amp 240 volt circuits are typically for specialty appliances and devices such as electric heaters, pumps, etc. Generally, 20A/240V appliances devices do not need a 12/3 cable as they only require connections for Line1, Line2 and ground. One insulated conductor would be unused in a 12/3 cable serving such a device. A 12/2 cable is run instead and the white wire is taped red (any color other than gray or green, to indicated that it is no longer a neutral) at each location it is accessible, such as wiring compartments, panels and junction boxes.

Circuits fed by 12/2 cables will connect to single pole circuit breakers and those fed by 12/3 cables must be connected to double pole circuit breakers. Check the National Electrical Code (NEC) to determine which locations require GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) supplied circuits. The latest (2012) NEC requires most new circuits in dwelling units (residential) to be protected by AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) type circuit breakers. Consult your local building department to find out if the NEC has been adopted in your locality before installing.

Lastly, a 12/3 cable would be run between 3 way & 4 way light switches and hard wired smoke detectors; but only if they are on a 20 amp circuit. Most circuits in the home are 15 amp capacity, especially for lighting circuits. A 14/3 cable would be run on these circuits as there is no need for the additional expense of a cable with the larger #12 wires and the increased labor to handle, install and connect the wires to device terminals.

I hope this helps. Please rate my reply - thanks!

Jan 18, 2012 | Siemens Hammering

2 Answers

I have a 12/2 (black/white/ground) power source to the leviton 1755 switch. And, I have two (2) 12/2's going to a Broan 100hl (vent, light, heater). Please help wiring switch and Broan; on...

The switch that you have works like 3 seperate switches. most of these switches will have gold screws
on one side and silver screws on the other side, lets say that the left is gold and the right is silver, and
the switch may also have a green screw for ground. your 12/2 with ground is your main hot, you may
want to mark it with a piece of tape, so you know it's the incoming hot. the ground off your hot will tie,
to the green screw on switch and continue and tie to your vent light which should also have a ground
the white coming off the hot is your neutral, it will go straight to your white or whites on your heater.
the black hot wire at your switch will go to each gold terminal on one side of the switch,there are two
ways you can do this, go to one side and just run a jumper, or put one wire on each gold screw and
tie in to your hot-black wire with a wire nut. now for the switch legs, you will need to run from your, switch
to your heater either another pair of 12/2s or a 12/3, each side of the switch that has one silver screw,
it's easier with a 12/3 normally a 12/3 will have a red,black,white,and ground.
top switch red to red on heater,black to black on light and the white blue on the vent,so from your switch
to the heater you would have to run a12/2 you would not use the black only the white and ground.
remember the white-neutral coming from the switch will be tied to all the whites at the vent,light,heater
except for the 10/3. the 10/3 is used stricktly for the switch legs. good luck!

Jul 09, 2011 | Leviton 1755 Triple Rocker Switch Decora

1 Answer

I have a hunter ceiling fan that was wired with 2 conductor so the fan is always on when the light is on. I should be able to replace the 2 conductor with 3 conductor to seperate the controls. Yes?

That's correct, you need to add a switch on your wall, so you'll have one switch for the light and one for the fan, and instead of having a black and white wire going from the wall switch box to the fan box you will run 3 wire cable with a black, red and white wire. Black and red will control your fan and light while white will be your neutral. Just remember to separate the wires up in the fan box so your light and fan are controlled separately.

May 27, 2010 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

How do you hook the four wire electric cable to the terminal marked L1, L2, L3? the wires are colored red, white, black and green.

To connect power cord:
• Remove the screws from the cover of the
junction box located at the top rear of the dryer.
• Loosen/remove the two screws on the strain
relief clamp and remove from 4-wire supply
• The strain relief splits into two indentical parts.
• Insert the large flange of both sections into the
hole located on the left side of the junction box
housing. The short flange of both sections and
screws must remain positioned on the external
side of the junction box housing.
• Insert the 4- wire supply cord through both
sections of the strain relief and re-install strain
relief screws, do not fully tighten until electrical
connections are complete.
• Attach the power cord ground conductor (green
wire) to the ground terminal marked with the
ground symbol. Tighten screw until ground
conductor is secure. (See Fig. 7)
• Attach the power cord neutral conductor (white
wire) to the neutral terminal. (marked N)
Tighten screw until neutral conductor is secure.
(See Fig. 7)
• Attach the power cord phase conductor (black
wire) to the phase terminal (marked L3).
Tighten screw until power conductor is secure.
(See Fig. 7)
• Attach the power cord phase conductor (red
wire) to the phase terminal (marked L1).
Tighten screw until power conductor is
secure.(See Fig. 7)
• Tighten the screws on the strain relief so that
the power cord cannot be moved.
• Re-install the cover of the junction box and
secure with four screws removed earlier.
• The dryer is now ready to be connected to the
power supply receptacle.

This is from the manual for the Danby DCD5505W. You did not give the model # so I went off of what you listed it under.

Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs for the free answer.

Apr 29, 2010 | Danby DCD5505W Electric Dryer

1 Answer


It does not matter whether the power goes to the fan unit or to the switch box, you still need 3 insulated wires going between the switich and the fan, and the ground wire as a 4th wire. If power is at switch, you will have white as nuetral feed to fan and 2 blacks (or a red and a black) one each to bring power for light and power for fan or heater element. ( if so equiped). If power is to fan unit, the white wire must have a piece of colored tape (red, orange, blue, brown) and this whtie wire is attached to the black power wire. The tape shows that this is not a neutral. The tape has to be at both ends of the white. Now, the other 2 wires (blk & blk or red & blk) can be atteched to the switch and carry the elec. to the fan light, blower, and or heater. Goodluck, Macgivor

Jan 02, 2010 | Broan-NuTone N-769RF Combination Light Fan...

1 Answer

Thermostat problem

Buy some more thermostat cable with the same number of conductors inside it that you need. Twist the wires in the wall to the conductors on the new cable you just bought. Wrap the connections with electrical tape and pull the new cable with the old cable, starting at the furnace. You will then have all brand new conductors to fit to your new thermostat.

Jan 12, 2009 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

2 Answers

Installing FUH cealing heater used 10-3 wire

If you use the white wire as a hot wire, you must identify the wire as being a hot wire at the breaker panel and the unit. The white
wire must be marked about 6 inches back from the terminal
connections with black paint or wrapped with black insulation tape.

It would be easier to use the red wire, since most electricians would identify it as being a hot wire

Jan 09, 2009 | Fahrenheat Ceiling-Mount Industrial Heater...

1 Answer

Wiring for baseboard heater

I hope you are using a Line Voltage Thermostat!! First, make sure that the power feeding the thermostat is coming from a two pole breaker of the correct amperage (20 amp). If you are using 12-2 wire with ground then please mark the white wire with black tape at each end to identify it as a HOT power source and not a Neutral wire (which is a grounded lead). Do the same for the 12-2 wires feeding the baseboard heater from the Line Voltage Thermostat. The wires from the thermostat (One Black & one White w/black tape) will be wired to each one of the two wires (one Black & one Red or two Black wires) at the baseboard heater. It doesn't matter which wire from the thermostat is wired to which wire at the heater, just as long as there is one wire to one and one wire to the other.(eg. Black from stat to Black at heater/White w/blk. tape from stat to Red at heater OR Black from stat to Black at heater/White w/blk. tape from stat to OTHER Black at heater). I have seen baseboard heaters with two black wires or one black and one red wire. Hope this helps, but if you are confused then please have an experienced tech. do it for you.

Dec 14, 2008 | Fahrenheat Electric Convector Baseboard...

2 Answers

Install and hot wire heater

You can be assured that the element is 240 volt. The fan motor is also rated at 240 volt. the wires you have black - black are the connections you make to the line. Use a 12/2 with ground. Use a double pole 20 breaker in your panelbox. The green wire is the equipment ground - connect this to the bare wire from the 12/2. On the 12/2 cable - there will be two colors, one black and one white. Wrap a couple of turns of black tape on the white wire both at the heater location and on the white in the panelbox. connect the 12/2 to your 2 pole breaker, the black wire and the taped white to the breaker.

Sep 05, 2007 | Fahrenheat FFH1615 Heater

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