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My GE Profile refrigerator (Model number PSS26NGSB WW) is making a clicking sound (tic-tac) and and flashed HRS where the temperature is displayed (other readings were dark). I believe it was stuck in defrost as this morning everything seamed normal other than the temperature being 48 and trying to cool back down to 35. All contents are ruined.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: GE Refrigerator Side by side Model# PSS26NGSA

sounds like motherboard failure take panel cover off and inspect you may even smell a burning like plastic smell on board

Posted on May 16, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: GE TFX20JR BK WW side by side won't cool or freeze

First point: The entire fridge is cooled by the freezer section. A fan blows air across to the food section.
2) Every 8 hours or so, a timer shuts off the compressor cycle, and starts up a heater to defrost the freezer coils. If the heater(s) are burnt out, or if the safety thermostat (to prevent overheating) is open, then you will have no defrost. The coils will frost up and eventually prevent airflow to the food section. Milk goes sour.
3) In rare circumstances, the timer itself can stall. This cause the same symptoms as above, but this is not as common as the other 2 causes of No Defrost.
Sequence: Check heater continuity. Check safety thermostat continuity while cold. Check defrost timer operation.
Hope this helps. I am a journeyman with 39 years exp. Happy New Year.

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

mgprice
  • 744 Answers

SOURCE: My freezer was developing frost / not cooling very good.

Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck! P.s Please don't forget to rate my solution Thanks! and thanks for using Fixya. Mike

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: GE PROFILE REFRIGERATOR SIDE BY SIDE IS NOT COOLING

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile refrigerator temperature problem

refrigerators have 2 coils. the evaporator coil and the condensing coil. one is on the bottom of the fridg and one is on the back or inside behind a false panel. these coils must be kept clean or if the condensing coil cannot reject the heat absorbed by the evaporator, the box temp will stay high and if the evap coil cant absorb heat the box temp stays low running the risk of freezing

Posted on Nov 27, 2009

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b28c00a.jpg
Here is a photo of the temperature control board.

cf6283d.jpg
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SITE=> http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/

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