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Thermal cutoff 350 deg. failed. Replaced it and Hi limit thermostat. Thermal cutoff failed again after drying several loads. Vents/ducts are clear. Probably unrelated but gasket around tub leaks badly and laundry room heats up. Dryer is about 20 yrs old. Advice would be appreciated. Bob

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  • bmenotti May 19, 2011

    I forgot to say the dryer is Kenmore model 96260100.
    Bob

  • Ryan Pries May 19, 2011

    Are you sure the duct is clear? If there is a dip in the duct down the line it will fill up with water.

  • bmenotti May 20, 2011

    Thanks ryanjpries for the suggestion. I can see the duct from the basement and it appears straight, also there is a strong flow of air at the exit. So there must be another gremlin somewhere. Thanks again.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

ronpar
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SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat

it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer wont heat

Your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) is blown. It should read close to 0 ohms if good. In addition, it is highly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO. These parts are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of both parts.

BEFORE you replace anything make sure you check your dryer ventilation for clogs. Cleaning the lint screen is not enough as no lint screen captures 100 percent of the lint. Some lint always manages to end up in the vent line. This includes the blower fan housing INSIDE the dryer. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by clogged ventilation, leading to an overheat condition. In an overheat condition, the TCO will blow.

Some things to consider:

1. Are you pushing the dryer too far up against the wall? This lead to crushed or kinked dryer vent hoses which will result in overheating. Leave about a foot space between the back of the dryer and the wall to prevent this.
2. Does your dryer vent line run through an attic or crawl space? These types of configurations are notorious for creating choke points where lint can clog. This is either due to gravity in an attic configuration. Or, sags and kinks in a crawl space configuration. Frequent inspection and cleaning may be required.
3. Is your vent line excessively long? This can cause lint to back up because there isn't enough force from the blower fan to push it all out of the vent exhaust. The rule of thumb is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER a vent line, the BETTER.

I'm not trying to lecture you on something that may not be a problem with your dryer. I merely put this advice out as a precautionary to prevent you from purchasing parts, only to have them go bad prematurely because you weren't advised of what may be causing the problem. The TCO blows for a REASON. The reason is generally caused by an overheat condition. You need to figure out why.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: Have replaced heat element, thermostat, thermal

I'd like you to try something easy. Set the dryer to Air Fluff and see if the dryer still puts
out Heat let it run for about 2 full minutes If you dryer is still putting out Heat get back to me

Posted on Nov 20, 2010

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Electric dryer getting way too hot


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3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

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Operating Thermostat Burnt out Twice


have you checked the venting ???? the heat could be backing up into the dryer causing it to burn out.?? Run a load with no vent on and see if it is ok..JUST a NOTE:the operation(cycling) stat the Hi limit Stat and the Thermal cutoff are all diffrent The Thermal cut off is located on the upper part of the heating element housing...The hi limit is on the bottom of the element by the terminals to the heating element.. the cycle stat is on the exsh. ducting I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same part

Jan 26, 2008 | Whirlpool LEQ8000JQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Does the Kenmore Series 700 dryer use circuit breakers or a thermal fuse to shutoff the heating element?


All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.

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The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

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1 Answer

Dry keeps blowing thermal cut-off switch for dryer


From your description I am assuming it is the thermal cutoff by the heating element that is blowing.

I would recheck the heating element for any signs that it has sagged and touched the case re: a weld or char mark.
The reason for this is at the top of the list is that the hi-limit should have shut the heater off before the cutoff blew and you have already replaced the hi-limit.

Check that the lint filter is clean and not coated with fabric softener residue.
If this unit has the operating thermostat on the blower check that all the internal seals (drum, blower etc. are OK. If the unit has a bad seal it will **** in room air, the thermostat sees this and then runs much hotter than it should.

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1 Answer

Dryer shuts off before load is dry. it will not turn back on for about a half an hour. is this an easy fix?


Yes it is. It is more than likely your high limit thermostat. The high limit thermostat is located on the back of the dryer after the heating element, (right before the entrance into the drying chamber). They high limit and thermal cutoff usually come as a kit because they should be replaced at the same time. The thermal cutoff is located on or around the body of the heating element. good luck!

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1 Answer

Replaced elements but does not heat in bowl


Check the thermal cutoff located on the element.  It is designed to blow if the element gets too hot.  If the thermal cutoff is blown, the hi limit thermostat (also located on the element) will also need to be replaced.  It will have two terminals on it and if it is good it will have continuity.  Trace the wires back from the element.  The first one it comes to will be the thermal cutoff, next will be the high limit thermostat.  

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1 Answer

Runs, doesn't get hot


Either your element is out our your thermal cutoff.  Check your element for continuity if it is open, replace the element.  If not check the thermal cutoff which is on top of the element.  If the thermal cutoff is open you will also need to replace the operating thermostat and Hi limit thermostat.  The high limit is on the element below the thermal cutoff, and the opperating thermostat is on the exhaust duct.

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1 Answer

Thermal limiter


In most dryers there are two thermal fuses and two thermostats. If the vent hose was restricted it is most likely that the thermal fuse on the heater assembly has failed . The fuse and thermostat come as a set in that in most cases the thermal fuse blows as a result of the thermostat failing.

The second set of a thermal fuse and thermostat is located on the air exiting the drum closest to the vent and control the drum air temperature. A qualified repair person can easily with power disconnected check these for devices and the one that is open at room temperature needs to be replaced.

Hope this helps?


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Components in blue box are the thermal cutoff fuses
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Parts below are used in the heater assembly to control the heater maximum temperature. If the thermal cutoff fails the thermostat is also replaced. These parts come as a set.
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Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cutoff Wiring


the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element

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