Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I thinkl you can order the manuals from www.sears.com under the parts tab enter your model # also if it is an electric dry it is 220v with a neutral leg check with the local electrian to see if the power there is phased..Hope this helps
PS::The washer and the refrig will work on the tranformers
Posted on Jan 22, 2008
SOURCE: Our refigerator is not cooling .
If you look at the rear wall inside the freezer compartment down low and find a bunch of frost on that wall, you have an automatic defrost system failure. The most likely part that has failed is the defrost thermostat. It is located on the top of the freezer coil, clipped onto a piece of tubing. It will have 2 wires coming out of it and it is about the diameter of a quarter and about 3/4" tall. To test this part you would need a test meter and enough skill to check if the contacts are closed when the thermostat is frozen withing the specifications stated on the thermostat. I believe yours would close at 25 degrees F and opens at 47 degrees F. Part # 5303918214
I hope this helps you. supertechks
Posted on Mar 28, 2008
OK .. on your dryer it does have a bi-metal switch that turns on and off the element....if your dryer produces heat... nothing wrong with element.. a thermostat w/wire sensor is the only way to check for your heat if its working correctly.. the other is to check if your clothes coming out of your washer is it wetter then before.. might need to spin one more time.. good luck..
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
The biggest wasters of electrical energy are Heat and A/c, water heaters,dryers and ranges. The more you insulate the less you have to cool or heat. If you live in a warm climate, consider installing an attic fan that runs on a thermostat or timer. During the summer allow it to run, during winter turn it off. Ceiling fans in rooms that are occupied create the illusion of being cooler, allowing the thermostat to be turned up.I'm not sure of the exact numbers but any thermostat setting on your a/c below 78 is more inefficient so try kicking the a/c up and the heat down. I'm a Florida boy so I can't tell you much about baseboard heaters. I know that anything that heats things up cost a lot in energy.
Consider installing a hot water heater timer. Commonly called a "Little Grey Box". Whenever your water heater is not actually being used it is still heating the water. A big waster. Once installed set the timer to cycle the water heater off during times when you commonly don't use it. Overnight,when your at work etc....
Somewhat antiquated, but a clothesline always uses 100% less energy than a clothes dryer. :) Short of this, try to fill the dryer all the way and make sure your dryer vent and lint trap are clear.
Microwaves draw 1/3 the energy of a range and run for 1/10 of the time. Microwave as many things as you can. In our house we have started microwaving canned veggies and boxed side dishes and such.
These are the big ones I've done at my house. A lot of the other things seemed to be more work than they are worth. Some actually end up costing you more if you don't own the house for decades.
There are many sites you can visit such as your local power company and possibly your local government pages.
Good luck. I'm in the same boat with the high power bill.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
This video will help you to determined what you need,
copy n paste
for parts n prices
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Posted on May 13, 2009
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Wattage is a term used to express magnitude of power. A common use is to define the electrical power consumption of your home appliances (check the labels). For example, look at the back label of your kitchen toaster. It might read 120 volts, 60 Hz, and 1200 Watts. The 1200 Watts is the power drawn by your toaster when you turn it on. You can get that (Watts) information for any appliance or device that runs on electricity in your house. That's important because that is the unit of measure the electric company uses to charge you in your electricity bill. The electric company bills your electric consumption in kilowatt-hour (KWH). All they are doing is calculating the watts by the thousands (that's the meaning of "kilo") for every hour you have your appliance turned on. The amount 22 cents per kilowatt-hour is close to how much the electricity is costing today. Back to your toaster, 1200 watts is equal to 1.2kilowatts. If you are using your toaster every day for an hour your monthly consumption is 1.2KWH times 30 days equals to 36KWH. That means at 22 cents per kilowatt-hour your toaster is costing you (36KWH times 22cents/KWH) $7.92 on that month. That's the toaster alone, now you can repeat this exercise for every appliance or device using electricity in your home. Start by just doing an inventory of each, do a log with four columns: (1)Name of the appliance, (2)Location, (3)Watts, and (4)Watts/1000 (to get the number in KW). Make a fifth (5) column and call it Hours. Make a sixth (6) column and call it KWH. Then sit down to estimate (think) for how many hours per month each device is turned on. Now multiply each value of column 4 by its corresponding hour number in column 5. Write the results in column 6. Add the results of column 6 and voila! You just have a pretty good estimate of the total KWH consumed in your home in 30 days. Multiply that by $0.22 (or get the actual cost per KWH from your electric service company) and see how close you are to the actual billing. Hope there is no surprises.
There are the science and engineering definitions of the term watt you can research to come to the same conclusion hereto, I just laid a practical perspective.
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