Question about GE DBXR463EDWW Electric Dryer
If your dryer still heats, but your clothes take longer than usual to dry, you may want to check the dryer interior cabinet and/or the entire run of the exhaust ducting from where it exits your dryer to the point where it leaves your home to ensure you have no kinks, clogs, or excessive bends. The following link explains many of the common problems that can cause poor drying efficiency and longer dry times:
Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. This is the NUMBER ONE cause of poor drying efficiency. A dryer that is clogged, or has restricted air flow, will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to OVERHEAT. This will eventually will lead to component failures and is the source of many fire hazards. Exhaust ducting that runs to the attic is usually the worst configuration, because the air has to be forced up. The blower fan will meet more resistance and any lint that does not exhaust completely, ends up stuck in the vent. Water appearing in the drum is another sign that you have a clog somewhere causing condensation to develop. FYI: There are no adjustments that can be made to any of the internal thermostats or heating element to make it run at a higher temperature. All these components have a fixed setting. If the dryer still produces heat, this is generally a sign that the heating element IS working. If the dryer is clogged, however, the internal protection devices, such as the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Internal Bias Thermostat will shut the heating element off prematurely to prevent the dryer from overheating, and to prevent damage to the heating element. Eventually, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Thermal Fuse will trip and the dryer will not run.or produce heat. If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on May 19, 2011
First check to see that the exhaust venting line is clear (not full of
lint) as well as the path in the dryer to the line. This is the most
common cause of no heat.
Second set the knob to heat turn on dryer with the lights off and the door open but the "open door" switch so that it still rotates with the door open. Look at the back of the rotating drum for a orange/red glow behind the drum (the heater coils). If there is no glow the heater coils are probably broken.
As the dryers age, the amount of thermal cycles the heater elements go through until the point when the coil wire breaks. There usually two heater coils behind the rotating drum (one hotter than the other and when combined the hottest heat temperature setting. You will need to pop open the top where you see the belt that turns the drum. Remove the front panels (several screws and then it it slides up and out. The belt is removed from the spring loaded tensioner pulley at the base of the dryer. Then you can lift the drum out to get to the heater coils. Since no heat, both should be broken and will require replacement.
Posted on Nov 08, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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