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Hi, John first perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up a voltmeter to the battery and start the engine, if meter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the voltmeter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. Battery draining ZX6R Forum Free Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Manuals for download kawasaki ninja zx 6r motorcycle parts Owner Manuals Service Manuals Kawasaki Vehicles
Hi, Parke you have a bad battery or faulty charging system, now it is time to put on your Battery Priest Robe and prepare yourself for the Ceremonial "LOAD TEST" but before you begin, maintenance type lead-acid batteries must be topped off with distilled Holy Water and all batteries must offer their terminals to the battery charging altar to receive the Sacred Infusion of Holy Ions until they have reached a 100% full charge of 12.5 volts or better. No matter how new the battery is, do not be lured into the false sense of "it's OK it has 12.5 volts" and not doing the test below, it could have little or zero "AMPERAGE" causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, AGM maintenance free batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid types.
Below is a quick and easy test to see if your battery is in good condition or needs Last Rites and must be replaced.
1. Make sure the bike is in "NEUTRAL"
2. Disconnect the spark plug cables.
3. Adjust voltmeter to DC volts 20-volt range
4. Place the voltmeter leads to the battery terminals.
5. Turn the run/off switch to run.
6. Turn the ignition switch on and press the starter button.
7. Watch the voltmeter as your engine turns over for 10 seconds.
8. If the voltage drops below 9.6 volts, the battery is faulty and must be replaced I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery they typically have more amperage for cranking.
9. Reconnect the spark plug cables if your battery is good and the bike starts ok, place the voltmeter leads on the battery and rev the engine to a steady 2500 RPM the voltmeter should read 14.5 volts DC anything in the 13's or less you have a charging issue that needs to be diagnosed and repaired.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Battery won stay charged Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum Kawasaki VN750 Forums Test Your Battery in 10 Seconds Reliable Load Test with Only Multimeter Kawasaki VN 750 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 1995 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Owner Manual
I live in Minnesota . I vote for fuel stabilizer and charging the battery overnight once a month. In cold weather batteries hibernate in the cold and do not need constant tending (unless your vehicle has live electronics when it is turned off like a clock, or radio with memory,etc.) If you start and run your bike you will collect moisture in your exhaust(rust), on cool down you collect moisture all over your motor, waste fuel, run a high risk of fowling plugs, put extra wear and tear on your starter, and run down your battery starting your cycle in unfavorable conditions. Definitely: Stabil and charge once a month.
Initially, have you checked the 30 Amps main fuse and its holder clips? It would be integrated with the starter relay. The fuse or the fuse holder may have heat related problem(s) causing it to loose conductivity when hot.The fuse may require replacement even if it tests good and/or the fuse holder would need cleaning / crimping. To locate the starter relay (main fuse), follow the battery cable from the + terminal of the battery.