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Model DWD110 While using to drive 2 1/2 inch deck screws the drill was operating normal. After loading another screw to drive, the drill would not energise. It was as if the cord had come unplugged, which it hadn't. Any ideas???

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It's possible that you fried it somehow, or you tripped a fuse on the line you are using to power it. Try plugging it into another outlet.

Posted on May 19, 2011


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2 Answers

How is a driver different from a drill? What

Hello, W/D here.

A very good question......A drill holds a bit and rotates it at a given speed. This speed can be variable, allowing the speed of the drill bit to be better matched to the material being drilled. The output from the drill motor goes directly to the chuck, and the power is directly applied to the drill bit. Some drills can generate a tremendous amount of direct torque, due to the nature of their gearing. Most of the better drills have planetary gears in them.
A driver rotates like a drill, but is designed to apply torque to a driving bit, and cause a fastener to be placed by the driver. The main difference between a drill and a driver is that a driver has an adjustable clutch, allowing the amount of torque being applied to a fitting to be preset. A good example of this would be for driving wood screws. You would dial in the torque setting that you want the driver to quit driving the screw. You don't want to drive the screw to China, you want to drive it flush. A maximum torque setting "locks" the clutch, and the fitting will be driven as far as it can go (This is about as close to being called a drill as a driver will ever get). A clutch setting midway might be just right for driving the same fitting into oak, and a setting at less than that might be just right for pine. The torque clutch effectively sets a kick out torque for the driver. When the torque applied matches the torque set on the driver, the clutch "slips", and no further driving action can occur.
Most modern battery powered drills incorporate a torque clutch between the motor and the chuck so that the tool can be operated as a drill (with the torque setting at "max") or as a driver (with the torque setting at less than max) some electric tools are configured as both, but usually they are different. For the money, a good battery powered drill/driver with a clutch offers more versatility, in my opinion.
Best regards, --W/D--

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It doesn't run even with a charged battery pack.

dear T,     The problem here is not your driver, but what you are asking it to do.  A good rule of thumb for carpentry jobs is "Always use the right tool for the job!" I work in the carpentry shop at the metropolitan opera in New York.  We use 14.4v and 18v cordless driver drills only.  However, you should know that cordless tools are to be used for small, short jobs.  Once you subject a cordless tool to constant, repetitive tasks that require lots of power, the tool will suffer performance problems and may fail.  Your broken bit indicates that you are expecting this tool to do more work than it can handle.    When driving long (2-1/2" or longer) screws into very hard (most decks are made of pressure treated lumber at least 1" thick) material, the proper tool is a corded drill.  This tool is made to deliver constant force for long service cycles.   When driving screws over 2" into hard woods or other dense material, any cordless drill is only good for less than 6 cycles of use.  A 12 volt battery will give out after several drive cycles under this type of demand.    Unfortunately I think you have depleted your batteries life expectancy.  Most Ni-Cd batteries will only last 1 to 2 years under normal wear.  I think your batteries will need replacement or repair.  Good Ni-Cd repair centers are hard to find, but with determination and persistence, you may find a battery recycler who will replace the cells in your batteries for a fee of about 1/2 the cost of new batteries.  DeWalt batteries are not cheap, so you will have to determine your best choice.  To drive several screws into your deck, I would recommend a corded drill.  It will stand up better under the demand.      As for broken bits, heavy use will always take a toll on your bits.  They will break less if they fit the fastener perfectly.   Also care must be taken to drive the fasteners in perfectly straight, perpendicular to the work surface.    Remember the adage, "Always use the right tool for the job!".  Take one of the fasteners with you when you but new driver bits.  Check for the best fit to the fastener you want to use.   For decades the standard drive bit has been the "phillips" bit.  At the Met we only use "Robertson" drive or square tip wood screws.  They cost more but slip less, and the bits rarely break. Always select a bit that best fits your fastener.    I hope this solution brings you success in your projects.  Best Regards,  Michael Mittelsdorf

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