No heat - Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.64892401
There is no heat. I want to test with a meter but don't know how to open it to get to the heating element and the thermostat...the manual does not give those instructions. Can you guide me to where I could see how to open this dryer? Thanks!
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Re: No heat - Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.64892401
There are 2 ways to get into your dryer. 1. Pull the dryer out away from the wall and unplug the unit. see if the back panel comes off. if so just take the back panel off the dryer.
2.If there is no back panel still unplug the unit. take a flat head screw driver to the front lip of the dryer. You will need to go to the front side edge and instert the screw driver. you will need to pull up on it until you hear it pop. and the dryer top should pop off the unit.
from there you will be able to find the thermostat and heating element.
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Bad heating element or bad thermo fuse.
You will have to unplug the dryer and remove the back to access the heating element.
The thermo fuse is located on the side of the heating element.
If you don't have a meter to test the element and thermo fuse or just don't know how simply remove them from the dryer and take them to your local appliance repair shop and they can test them for you.
hello there: Testing with an ohm meter checking on a
dryer.... These are the places that pass voltage to the heater
elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of
places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance
before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are
testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any
wires ). Meter
testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power
supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read
tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm
meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and
safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show
continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set
of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture
what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater
wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent
years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with
your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses
are located on the heater element housing and should read
continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air
flow problems or a grounded
heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the
wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There
is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is
running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check
with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically
safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals
on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read
continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a
dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two
terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater
element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity
across a good element 8-12 OHMS
ok first unplug dryer on the side of the heating element housing you will see the high limit switch black plastic with a sticker and a metal nose pull the 2 wires off check for continuity with ohm meter should be closed if it reads closed put wires back. Now look for a white ceramic rectangle piece it is a thermal fuse pull the wires and chech continuity if it shows closed it also is good. if either of these show open they need replaced. Now if both showed closed unplug wires from heating element check continuity should read continuity. if open element is broken. Now assuming this all shows good. Then it could be the timer or the centrifical switch on end of motor.
limit switch either the one on the heating element or the one in the air duct they are easy to check if u know how to use a meter they should read continuity when they are cold and open up at a certain temp
An open circuit does mean the element is bad and will need to be replaced. Just in case though, make sure your meter is working properly by touching the leads together. You should get a reading. Good luck!
Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.
Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.
Disconnect the plug. Disconnect the wires to the heater element. Using an ohm meter or test light,test the heater element to see if it is open. If it is open the meter needle will not move If a test light , it will not light. If true then replace element.
When you say electrical power is working Ok ,I would assume you are saying this because the dryer is tumbling.
Which could mean you are only getting 120 volts to the unit but it will not heat with out 240 volts.
If you are getting 240 volts.
You could have an open thermostat, an open heating element. A bad timer contact or a open switch on the motor.
All these can be tested with a Volt-Ohm meter.
((((The Electrical supply must be turned off and at least one wire dissonnected from the component being tested.