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Refrigerator stopped cooling. I tried plugging into different outlets. Settings remain on (-). Will not go up.

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Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm



Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.


DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on May 18, 2011

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call a local repair technician

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Amana Model SQD22NBW Refrigeration stopped running MFG P1162412WW


First, check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor, or other sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn't really completely stopped--go to the specific problem you are having. If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't work, read on.

Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the outlet.

If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may be a problem in one or more of these:

  • Wiring

  • Thermostat

  • Defrost timer

  • Compressor

  • Overload and/or relay
If it is just that the unit is not cooling properly, it could be a problem with the compressor. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor

  • The Thermostat

  • The overload, relay, or capacitor

  • The defrost timer

  • The condenser fan motor

It could also be that it is simply too hot in your garage for the fridge to work properly. If that is the case, your compressor may be under strain and could have burnt out.

If your unit is under warranty, best thing to do would be to contact the manufacturer/point of purchase. (Warranty is usually 5 years).

There is no quick fix for this, and you will need to have some experience in refrigerator repairs. It seems most likely that the issue is a burnt out compressor. But whether it is the wiring or the compressor itself, will be hard to tell without testing for continuity, etc.

If you feel that you have correctly diagnosed the issue, and wish to try a DIY, I suggest you purchase a service manula first. Here is a good one:
http://www.appliancepartsworldwide.com/Store_Part.aspx?Id=501956

You can then purchase the required parts from here:
http://www.appliancepartsworldwide.com/Store_SearchResults.aspx?S=647313&ST=PBM

Hope that helps! If you find my solution helpful, kindly take a moment to "Accept" my solution. Thanks.

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Samsung RS2555SL Side by Side Refrigerator


Is the refrigerator still trying to cool as in is the motor still humming? Since many things go wrong, you are going to have to check to see what is still working so that we can narrow it down. This is the first thing that you need to check. Turn it on the coldest setting and see if the motor/pump is still running. Please let me know what you find

May 19, 2008 | Samsung RS2578BB Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

The power cord of my TV is getting hot


Major, major problem.
Does the outlet hold onto the plug securely? If not, then replace the outlet.
Try another outlet, does it get hot there as well? If not, then replace the outlet.
If the plug gets hot while the cord remains decently cool and the wall outlet is good, then replace the plug on the cord.
:o)

Jun 03, 2011 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Refrigerator is plugged in, but refrigerator is off, no light, not cooling.


gft
Sorry to read about your problem. you can have many different problems.
1. Bad temp control
2. Failing compressor
3. Defective start cap
4. Defective overload protector
5. Defective control board

also check to see if your outlet is working at the wall plug

I suggest you call a service company.

I have tried to help you. Please help me, by Vote/Rate my response. Thanks.

If you live in the Denver area, I can help you.

Dec 25, 2010 | LG LRFD22850 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator...

1 Answer

Hi, I have a Kenmore top freezer refrigerator model number 363.79567990. The freezer stopped working and I found out that I had to press the "Reset" button on the outlet while it was unplugged...


It sounds like you've plugged your fridge into a GFI (ground fault interrupter) outlet.

The National Electrical Code (NEC) article 210.8 A (6) says in dwelling units, only those outlets in a kitchen (I'm assuming your fridge is in the kitchen - right?) "where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces" must be provide ground fault protection aka "GFI outlet". Unless your town, city, county or state has laws that supersede the NEC, you should have the outlet changed to a standard, grounded outlet to prevent the nuisance tripping you are experiencing when the cooling compressor is trying to start. A refrigerator is not a counter surface appliance, and therefore does not require GFI protection.

The other outlets are fed from this outlet, so when you connect the fridge to another outlet on the circuit, the same GFI plug trips again. When you replace the GFI plug with a "regular one, the GFI plug should be installed in another outlet to provide the GFI protection needed in the kitchen - as described in the NEC above. If you are not familiar with how to do this, please, call a licensed electrician to do this very important job for you. Be safe & be smart.

I hope this helps!

Nov 01, 2010 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

1 Answer

My superba refrigerator recently keeps tripping off the power. I tried swithing to a different outlet but it didn't work (same problem). What is causing this?


well usually several plugs are on the same breaker and just because u use a different plug dont mean u r using another breaker try replacing the breaker and see if this cures the problem breakers sometimes get weak and trip when they need replacing but make sure u put in the same size if it still does it then u have something overamping because of being dirty or clogged up around the fridge or behind it or under it make sure its clean all around and try unplugging a couple of things on the outlets and see if it stops tripping

Mar 01, 2010 | KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25IN Side...

1 Answer

Stopped cooling


Best to unplug the refrigerator now and let compressor cool. The internal overload will be damaged if power remains on and trying to start. We need to test the compressor and start components before you buy anything, Let me know Sea Breeze

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The only logical conclusion to this is that the fuse is blown in the plug or on the fuse board. Even if the motor expired the light would still work. Have you checked the plug/fuse and board or even tried plugging the appliance into a different outlet?

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