Question about Memorex iMove Mi3005-BLK Docking Station for Apple iPod

1 Answer

I need a screw driver to remove the screws on the back of the cdocking station to repair the plug wire

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  • Memorex Master
  • 6,993 Answers

Hello,

you need something like screw driver set. You can find all necessary screw driver needed to remove the screw on the back of the CD Docking in the set. You will also find the screw driver set usefully in the nearest future.

It is always advice-able for one to have this kind of tool(s) at home for situations like this.

To order for the tool online click here:http://www.amazon.com/Denali-22-Piece-Screwdriver-Set/dp/B000NDMNNG

If you don't want to order it online, you can get the screw driver set in any electronics part store within your vicinity.

Check the pictures below to identify the tool box;

I need a screw driver to remove the screws on the - walesarumi_68.jpgwalesarumi_66.jpg
Regards.

Posted on May 18, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Am using toshiba satellite L505-10w my keyboard is not working so how can i get solution


So your Toshiba laptop keyboard isn't working like it should? Whether your keyboard problem resulted from liquid spill, a hard bump, or you simply wore it out, you don't have to worry about investing in a new laptop, you can fix your keyboard problems with a simple swap. The good news is that fixing a Toshiba keyboard does not take much technical skill. In fact, Toshiba keyboards are among the easiest laptops to repair.

1.Remove the bezel just above the keyboard. You will notice a tin strip of plastic located just above the keyboard. This strip is called the keyboard bezel and you remove it by gently prying the edge up with your small standard screwdriver. Work your way across the bezel lifting it as you go. The bezel is a snap in unit so be sure to be gentle, as you work your way across.
2.Remove the keyboard screws. With the bezel removed, you will find three or four screws at the top of the keyboard. Using your small Philips head screw driver, remove these screws and place them in a safe spot where you will not lose them.
3.Remove the keyboard. With the screws removed, gently lift the keyboard from top to bottom. You will notice a ribbon of wires connected from the keyboard to the laptop. Lean the keyboard forward so that you can access the ribbon wire connection.
4.Remove the ribbon wire. Take your standard screw driver and gently push up the bracket locks on both sides of the ribbon wire socket. These bracket locks slide up slightly as you push to release the wire.
5.Plug in the replacement keyboard. Just as you removed the old keyboard, you will now push the ribbon wire from you replacement into the ribbon socket. With the small screw driver, push the brackets back into place to secure the ribbon.
6.Screw the replacement keyboard back into place. Using one screw, attach the keyboard. With the keyboard held into place by the single screw, start the computer and test the replacement keyboard. Once tested, replace the remaining screws.
7.Insert the bezel above the keyboard. With the keyboard now secured by all of the screws, place the bezel back over its opening and snap it back into place. Start at one end and work your way across.

I hope you find it very helpful. Thank you for using fixya.com

Aug 19, 2011 | Toshiba Satellite A105 Notebook

Tip

How to Replace The Cord Reel in a Miele Canister Vacuum Cleaner


Ok, so you need to replace the cord reel on a Miele Canister Vacuum, no problem! I'll attempt to try and walk you through this repair with a detailed explanation of it, and along with some pictures to help you. You'll first want to buy a new Miele series cord reel for your particular model.

Here are links to all of the Miele cord reels if you haven't already purchased one.
Miele Cord Reels & Rewinds for All Brands


So once you have the cord reel, you'll need either a Phillips head screw driver for the older Miele models, or a T20 Torx Screwdriver for the newer models. The picture below is actually of the Miele S518 Cat & Dog series, but for this repair the procedure is identical to most Miele canisters . You'll need to remove the hose, wand, and power nozzle from the vacuum cleaner before you begin.

1cd8104.jpg
The first thing you'll wand to do is open up the bag housing, and remove the vacuum bag, as well as the exhaust filter which may be either the Cloth Super Air Clean Filter, or the HEPA Filter cartridge which is blue in color. If you're using the Super Air Clean filter, remove the filter, and then remove the bracket that secures the filter in place as well. Simply pull straight up on the bracket and it will come out.

Once the bag and the filter have been removed, you'll need to take off the entire tool lid. While the vacuum cleaner is open so that you can see into the compartment where the bag just was, you need to pry two arms from the tool lid off of the main body housing. Simply put a screwdriver behind one of the blue arms, and pry inwards. Here's a picture of what this looks like;

ea76cca.jpg
Once you have removed both of these clasps, the tool lid will pull straight upwards and off, leaving you with only the bottom part of the canister. This is how the vacuum cleaner should look now;


4e90a53.jpg
Now you'll need to remove the black speed control box from the canister. There is one screw in the front of the black speed control box that needs to be removed. After the screw has been removed, turn the vacuum cleaner around so that the back of the machine where the cord reel goes into the vacuum is now facing you. If you look where the black speed control box meets the bottom part of the canister, you can see two clips that you'll need to release before the variable speed control box can be removed. Simply put a screw driver and push in on the clip while lifting the black speed control box at the same time. Here's where the clips are located on the vacuum;


c4f57b8.jpg
Ok, now that the speed control box has been removed, it's time to separate the colored plastic from the base of the vacuum cleaner. There are 7 screws that need to be removed in order to get these housings separated. I have circled the location of each screw in the picture below;


d7e09aa.jpg
After removing all 7 screws, you can then simply pull upwards on the colored plastic housing, and remove the housing from the base of the vacuum cleaner so that the motor and cord reel are exposed. Once you have exposed the cord reel, you'll need to remove the internal wires (white wire is in the higher position, and to the left of the lower right side black wire), as well as the rubber hose part. The rubber hose part simply pulls off, just like the wire terminals do. After removing these parts, you'll need to remove one more screw with your screw driver. Here's the picture of which screw needs to be removed;


707ba1e.jpg
After the final screw has been removed, you'll have to remove the rectangular shaped wire harness that sits at the top of the cord reel. Pay close attention to how this wire harness is correctly seated which will save some aggravation when putting the vacuum back together. Here's a picture of the wire harness that needs to be removed from the old cord reel;


9dd734e.jpg
Once the wire harness has been completely removed from the old cord reel, you may simply pull up on the cord reel and remove it. The new cord reel will come completely assembled, with all the parts and components that your faulty cord reel had. You simply need to line up the screw hole on the new cord reel with the hole in the bottom of the base of the vacuum. When installing the new cord reel be very careful that you don't pinch any of the wires down by putting the cord reel on top of them. The wires have a specific place they go, and you'll be able to see the correct path for these wires when paying close attention. Also remember to install the rubber tube back onto the new cord reel as well. Once the new cord reel has been installed, and screwed down, pull the plug out a little ways, and guide the plug through the colored top housing first, then screw the 7 screws that hold the upper housing to the lower housing back into to secure these housings together.

That's about all there is to that repair! Please feel free to request a repair clarification if you have any questions about the repair that I can help you with, I'm always more then happy to help.

If this repair guide was helpful to you, please click the thumbs up icon in the bottom right part of this solution to rate it has helpful.

Thank you,

Chris J.
GoVacuum

on Apr 07, 2010 | Vacuums

2 Answers

Miele Champagne Vacuum Cleaner Model S548 I was using the vacuum as normal, moved locations so I plugged into another outlet & suddenly there was no power to the vacuum! I tried it in several other...


Greetings from ,


This definitely sound like a cord reel issue to me. This is really the only problem that I ever see on a Miele vacuum cleaner. 9 times out of 10 the cord reel needs to be changed. If you purchase the cord from us, and it's not the problem you may return it up to 60 days later for a full refund, that's how confident I am that is what's wrong with your machine.

Ok, so you need to replace the cord reel on a Miele , no problem! I'll attempt to try and walk you through this repair with a detailed explanation of it, and along with some pictures to help you. You'll first want to buy the new Miele S500 series cord reel

So once you have the cord reel, you'll need either a Phillips head screw driver for the older S514 models, or a T20 Torx Screwdriver for the newer S514 model vacuums. The picture below is actually of the Miele S518 Cat & Dog series, but for this repair the procedure and parts are identical to your Miele Champagne. You'll need to remove the hose, wand, and power nozzle from the vacuum cleaner before you begin.

1cd8104.jpg
The first thing you'll wand to do is open up the bag housing, and remove the vacuum bag, as well as the exhaust filter which may be either the Cloth Super Air Clean Filter, or the HEPA Filter catridge which is blue in color. If you're using the Super Air Clean filter, remove the filter, and then remove the bracket that secures the filter in place as well. Simply pull straight up on the bracket and it will come out.

Once the bag and the filter have been removed, you'll need to take off the entire tool lid. While the vacuum cleaner is open so that you can see into the compartment where the bag just was, you need to pry two arms from the tool lid off of the main body housing. Simply put a screwdriver behind one of the blue arms, and pry inwards. Here's a picture of what this looks like;

ea76cca.jpg
Once you have removed both of these clasps, the tool lid will pull straight upwards and off, leaving you with only the bottom part of the canister. This is how the vacuum cleaner should look now;


4e90a53.jpg
Now you'll need to remove the black speed control box from the canister. There is one screw in the front of the black speed control box that needs to be removed. After the screw has been removed, turn the vacuum cleaner around so that the back of the machine where the cord reel goes into the vacuum is now facing you. If you look where the black speed control box meets the bottom part of the canister, you can see two clips that you'll need to release before the variable speed control box can be removed. Simply put a screw driver and push in on the clip while lifting the black speed control box at the same time. Here's where the clips are located on the vacuum;


c4f57b8.jpg
Ok, now that the speed control box has been removed, it's time to separate the colored plastic from the base of the vacuum cleaner. There are 7 screws that need to be removed in order to get these housings separated. I have circled the location of each screw in the picture below;


d7e09aa.jpg
After removing all 7 screws, you can then simply pull upwards on the colored plastic housing, and remove the housing from the base of the vacuum cleaner so that the motor and cord reel are exposed. Once you have exposed the cord reel, you'll need to remove the internal wires (white wire is in the higher posistion, and to the left of the lower right side black wire), as well as the rubber hose part. The rubber hose part simply pulls off, just like the wire terminals do. After removing these parts, you'll need to remove one more screw with your screw driver. Here's the picture of which screw needs to be removed;


707ba1e.jpg
After the final screw has been removed, you'll have to remove the rectangular shaped wire harness that sits at the top of the cord reel. Pay close attention to how this wire harness is correctly seated which will save some aggravation when putting the vacuum back together. Here's a picture of the wire harness that needs to be removed from the old cord reel;


9dd734e.jpg
Once the wire harness has been completely removed from the old cord reel, you may simply pull up on the cord reel and remove it. The new cord reel will come completely assembled, with all the parts and compontents that your faulty cord reel had. You simply need to line up the screw hole on the new cord reel with the hole in the bottom of the base of the vacuum. When installing the new cord reel be very careful that you don't pinch any of the wires down by putting the cord reel on top of them. The wires have a specific place they go, and you'll be able to see the correct path for these wires when paying close attention. Also remember to install the rubber tube back onto the new cord reel as well. Once the new cord reel has been installed, and screwed down, pull the plug out a little ways, and guide the plug through the colored top housing first, then screw the 7 screws that hold the upper housing to the lower housing back into to secure these housings together.

That's about all there is to that repair! Please feel free to request a repair clarification if you have any questions about the repair that I can help you with, I'm always more then happy to help.

If this repair guide was helpful to you, please click the thumbs up icon in the bottom right part of this solution to rate it has helpful.

Thank you so much,

Chris Jones

Feb 09, 2010 | Miele Blue Moon Bagged Canister Vacuum

1 Answer

No spinning on any of my spin cycles


If this is the Roper top load washer, you probably need a new motor coupler. Always unplug your appliance before repairing. There are two screws located on the front corners of the control panel. Remove these screws and tilt the control panel back. There are two clips holding the cabnet to the rear panel. Remove the two clips and remove the wiring harness with the 3 wires going to the cabnet. Tilt the cabnet forward and remove. Remove the two clips holding the pump in place and remove the pump from the motor. Remove the two screws hold the two clips holding the motor on. Remove the clips and the motor. Using a large screw driver remove the white plastic coupling from the rear motor shaft and the other half on the transmission shaft. Tap the new coulpler on with the end of a 3/8 socket extention so that the face of the plastic coupler is flush with the shaft. Insert the rubber part of the coupler in between the two halv'es of the coupler and reinstall the motor.
Reinstall the pump and put the cabnet back on. Reinstall the clips holding the cabnet on and the wiring harness. Tilt the control panel back in place and replace the two screws. Plug your maching back in and test. I hope this helps.

Jan 21, 2010 | Roper Washing Machines

1 Answer

Cigarette lighter came undone. how do I reattach?


I had this problem as well. Start by removing the small plastic plate by the emergency brake (Pull the brake up). It just pops off, Then remove the left side of the middle console that includes the cup holders and ash tray. It will loosen and you will have to manuever it to take it completely out - turn it sidways to get it out from the shifter, You will need to do this to get to the two screws holding in the front panel where the cigarette lighter is at. Using a phillips screw driver, unscrew the two screws at the very botton of the panel near where it would meet the center console. These screws are hard to get to but can be done. Once you have removed the screws, starting at the bottom, begin to remove the panel slowly as the wiring will still be attached. Unclip the emergency blinked power clip. The cigarette will have two plus that will clip off. The wiring will still be harnessed to the panel, By using a flat screw driver, you can push in the plug clips from the opposite side and the wiring plug will come out. Now you have the panel completely out. Position the cigarette holder in, the metal clip with the little handle goes to the rioght hand side in between the two plastic plugs.holding this all together, there should be a metal ring that will screw back in to hold the cigarette holder in place. once this is secure, plug in the three wiring clips and then plug in the wiring harness once you have the panel positioned to put this back in. once your wiring is back in re-mount the panel and put the two screws back in. Put in the center console molding and then put in the small molding by the parking brake.

I am a woman with no mechanical experience , so goes to show you that this is possible. Time it took me to repair - 30 mins including figuring out the panel screws etc.

Dec 18, 2009 | 2005 Mitsubishi Outlander

4 Answers

280Zx ignition problem


Your car should be a L-28 1,5,3,6,2,4 on the cap looking straight down at the cap:( the rotation on the cap is counter clock ways( release the distributor cap remove the 1 spark plug (1st plug closest to the front of the engine) remove the coil wire from distributor cap and ground on a stud sticking up on a bolt on engine. crank engine with a hand held starter switch. till crankshaft timing mark lines up on 8% after top dead center. remove remote start switch take a long screw driver and place it into the 1 spark plug hole (if the screw driver drops all more then 8 in. you are on exhaust stroke if it drops a couple in you are on compression stroke) it needs to be on compression stroke if it is not then remove screw driver and reconnect remote start switch. turn engine over till it has made 1 hole revaluation back to the mark on flywheel. remove remote start switch. place screw driver back into spark plug hole it should drop a couple inches. remove screw driver replace plug. and wire on spark plug now looking down at the distributor. the rotor should just be hitting the 1 spark plug going counter clock ways that post on the cap is 1 spark plug( place plug wires looking down at top of cap 1,5,3,6,2,4 on the block 1 ,2,3,4,5,6 replace cap and clamp . replace coil wire . remove vacuum advance, vacuum line and plug. loosen distributor. install a timing light and start engine . pointing timing light at crank shaft. you will see the timing mark on the crank shaft twist distributor til marks line up stop engine and tighten distributor recheck timing after tighten to make share it is still right you have about &% you can be advanced and still be ok replace vacuum and you shouls be all good.....

Jul 21, 2009 | 1983 Nissan 280ZX

1 Answer

How to replace front speakers in a daewoo leganza 02


You will need to either remove the door card or the speaker grill on the door card. To do this you will need a set of thin nose pliers for removing door clips, a flat head screw driver and a phillips screw driver for any cross head screws. Use the flat head screw driver to pop the grill off, if the grill is not removeable you will have to take the whole door card off. To do this you need to remove the electric windows panel as well as the door handle and lock panel, from their disconnect them from their harnesses. Then remove all clips and screws holding the panel in place. The door card should come free without too much effort, pulling upwards and away from the window. Unscrew the old speakers and disconnect the wires from them. Wire your new speaker to the same wire configuration as the old one. Screw it in. Place the door card back on and then plug the harnesses back in and place the door lock and window locking panels back in place. Do the same for the other door.

A professional installation will cost about $80 I think, I did my door speakers on my car and all I had to do was pop out the grill so it was easier than I expected.

Jul 17, 2009 | Car Audio & Video

3 Answers

Inside dryer silver flaking off


If you need a new drum. Follow the instructions below.

Ordered drum from Sears parts. 3045EL1002D
Cost of 85$ + 15 to ship. It came in 5 days.

Here is how to do it on a DLE2514W. Takes about an hour. I only used a phillips screw

driver. Take your time and look over the situation. I hope that I rememberd

everything. Good luck.
Dryer Drum Repair

Dryer Drum Repair

1. Remove L bracket with 6 screws at the top, rear.
2. Slide top back 2 inches to unlatch and remove.
3. Remove control panel with 2 screws at top, inside corners.
4. Carefully unplug 4 plugs from back of control panel.
5. Looking at inside at the top. Remove wiring bundle from 2 guides.
6. Unplug wire from dryer light.
7. Open dryer door and unscrew 2 screws behind door just below lint trap.
8. Remove 4 screws at top of front panel that holds the door.
9. Lift up front panel to remove. I couldn't get the door switch plug to disconnect
so I carefully rotated it an set it on top of the dryer.
10. Remove upper case bracket with 2 screws in front and 2 screws inside at top.
11. slide up a bit to unlock from sides. Watch routing of dryer switch wire bundle.
12. Remove lint trap duct with 2 machine screws. Carefully slide down to remove.
13. Remove front drum support with 4 screws attached to sides. Lift up to disengage

sides. Lift drum to free from rollers.
14. Observe how drive belt is routed around motor and tension roller. Push tension

roller up and release belt. Carefully take belt off and remove.
15. Almost done. Lift drum up at rear to free from rear rollers. Remove.
16. While your're there vacuume up dust and reverse procedure to install.

Mar 07, 2009 | LG DLE2514 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Drum noise


Ordered drum from Sears parts. 3045EL1002D
Cost of 85$ + 15 to ship. It came in 5 days.

Here is how to do it on a DLE2514W. Takes about an hour. I only used a phillips screw

driver. Take your time and look over the situation. I hope that I rememberd

everything. Good luck.
Dryer Drum Repair

Dryer Drum Repair

1. Remove L bracket with 6 screws at the top, rear.
2. Slide top back 2 inches to unlatch and remove.
3. Remove control panel with 2 screws at top, inside corners.
4. Carefully unplug 4 plugs from back of control panel.
5. Looking at inside at the top. Remove wiring bundle from 2 guides.
6. Unplug wire from dryer light.
7. Open dryer door and unscrew 2 screws behind door just below lint trap.
8. Remove 4 screws at top of front panel that holds the door.
9. Lift up front panel to remove. I couldn't get the door switch plug to disconnect
so I carefully rotated it an set it on top of the dryer.
10. Remove upper case bracket with 2 screws in front and 2 screws inside at top.
11. slide up a bit to unlock from sides. Watch routing of dryer switch wire bundle.
12. Remove lint trap duct with 2 machine screws. Carefully slide down to remove.
13. Remove front drum support with 4 screws attached to sides. Lift up to disengage

sides. Lift drum to free from rollers.
14. Observe how drive belt is routed around motor and tension roller. Push tension

roller up and release belt. Carefully take belt off and remove.
15. Almost done. Lift drum up at rear to free from rear rollers. Remove.
16. While your're there vacuume up dust and reverse procedure to install.

Aug 13, 2008 | LG DLE2514 Electric Dryer

3 Answers

MDR-7506


On my MDR-7506, there are 4 screws, not one. Slip the ear pads off (they should pull off intact; don't worry) and the screws should be visible on the face of the driver housing. Remove the screws and you'll gain access to the wiring behind the drivers. You'll see the right side driver's 2 wires attached to the back of the left driver. I believe the ground wire is gold and the signal wire is red. In my case, my right driver is the one that's gone silent on me, and the culprit appears to be a frayed ground wire over on the left side. It's frayed right where the 'bare' (micro-insulated) wire leading from the left driver enters the protective black tubing that leads to the right. There might be just enough slack to cut and resolder it, but there's no margin for error. Does anybody have tips for working with these very fine wires?

A service "manual" (really more of a parts list / exploded view) is here (for now).

Jun 11, 2007 | Sony MDR-7506 Professional Headphones

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